Is that possible

Might actually be better off with a coarser finish for that use, anyway. Something like ~ 320 - 600 with some noticeable 'tooth' in the edge will cut flesh/meat more easily, assuming it's fully apexed and burrs cleaned up. It should zip through paper effortlessly, pop hairs from your forearm and bite the skin when testing with fingertips. Such an edge can be wickedly sharp, and it doesn't really depend on a high-polish finish to be so.

In the Lansky kit with the standard hones (not diamond), try finishing with the 'medium' grit hone; then just make sure the burrs are cleaned up after that.
Thank you i will try that in a bit and btw i do clear burrs as much as i can in the sharpening process after every grit i make super light passes from 10 to 1 or something like that, i cant feel any burr but my knife seems like i said dull is that because of the remaining burr or i should not do that..
 
Thank you i will try that in a bit and btw i do clear burrs as much as i can in the sharpening process after every grit i make super light passes from 10 to 1 or something like that, i cant feel any burr but my knife seems like i said dull is that because of the remaining burr or i should not do that..

Sounds like it may not be fully apexed, both because (1) you're not seeing or feeling a burr and (2) because it's not cutting well. The burr will come when the edge is fully apexed, and it should then be more easy to see or feel.

To make sure you're getting a full apex, don't progress past your coarsest hone until you can detect an obvious burr along the full length of the cutting edge. Then, with the same hone, flip the burr to the opposite side. After that happens, use the same hone with much lighter passes to gently reduce the burr. Check frequently to see how it's cutting (try paper) while you're doing that, so you can see how the edge is changing in sharpness. If you see it degrade in sharpness, stop what you're doing and generate the burr again, then flip and reduce it again, being careful to keep your touch light and checking sharpness (paper cutting) as you go.

Once you've made sure the burr has been generated and cleaned up with the coarsest hone, AND you're still seeing it cutting well, then's the time to carefully step to the next hone and refine the edge further. You don't necessarily have to generate a new burr at each grit step, but instead keep checking (frequently) the paper-cutting as you work, to make sure the edge is continuing to improve in sharpness.
 
Sounds like it may not be fully apexed, both because (1) you're not seeing or feeling a burr and (2) because it's not cutting well. The burr will come when the edge is fully apexed, and it should then be more easy to see or feel.

To make sure you're getting a full apex, don't progress past your coarsest hone until you can detect an obvious burr along the full length of the cutting edge. Then, with the same hone, flip the burr to the opposite side. After that happens, use the same hone with much lighter passes to gently reduce the burr. Check frequently to see how it's cutting (try paper) while you're doing that, so you can see how the edge is changing in sharpness. If you see it degrade in sharpness, stop what you're doing and generate the burr again, then flip and reduce it again, being careful to keep your touch light and checking sharpness (paper cutting) as you go.

Once you've made sure the burr has been generated and cleaned up with the coarsest hone, AND you're still seeing it cutting well, then's the time to carefully step to the next hone and refine the edge further. You don't necessarily have to generate a new burr at each grit step, but instead keep checking (frequently) the paper-cutting as you work, to make sure the edge is continuing to improve in sharpness.
Got it i just rcieved the product i showed you i don't know what so say about it :D
And for the burr i know these stuff i have burrs on the coarse grits but i try to keep them clean. But i will try the paper thingy ive got alotta A4
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