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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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Is the CRKT Hissatsu Folder worth buying?
- Thread starter nim145
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*all coatings will scuff/scratch with use.
*the ones i have seen the lockup was ok with very little/no play, CRKT is not known for having the best locks though and they very well might wear with use.
*by 'outburst' i presume ya mean the assisted opening, like i said above the lock might wear with use, i dont know that 100% for sure though.
imho the hissatsu would be worth buying if ya like the style and just gotta have one or ya needed a folder designed mostly for stabbing with very little utility ability, imho therer is lotsa better stuff for the $$, ie a spyderco waved endura for one.
*the ones i have seen the lockup was ok with very little/no play, CRKT is not known for having the best locks though and they very well might wear with use.
*by 'outburst' i presume ya mean the assisted opening, like i said above the lock might wear with use, i dont know that 100% for sure though.
imho the hissatsu would be worth buying if ya like the style and just gotta have one or ya needed a folder designed mostly for stabbing with very little utility ability, imho therer is lotsa better stuff for the $$, ie a spyderco waved endura for one.
I own one and gave it to my oldest son. Just didn't care for it as it just didn't seem like utilitarian enough. He doesn't carry it much either prefering instead to carry a CS Recon folder in g10 and clip point. Now that is one tough folder and works flawlessly. keepem sharp
Here are some reviews that state that the knife blade required a lot of force to open. How do you remedy this problem?
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504371&highlight=Folding+Hissatsu
"The outburst (or assisted opening) was very fast, and opened with force. The speed surprised me because it opened twice as fast as the SOG's assisted open. My only dislike is that the blade required a lot of force to nudge the blade 30 degrees or so for the outburst to engage. My thumb's been sore all day from using the outburst. Hopefully it will loosen over time, and I can open it with less force."
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http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489651&highlight=Folding+Hissatsu
"... The knife is a bit stiff, but the action is fast. It produces a nice hard "thwack" when locking."
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504371&highlight=Folding+Hissatsu
"The outburst (or assisted opening) was very fast, and opened with force. The speed surprised me because it opened twice as fast as the SOG's assisted open. My only dislike is that the blade required a lot of force to nudge the blade 30 degrees or so for the outburst to engage. My thumb's been sore all day from using the outburst. Hopefully it will loosen over time, and I can open it with less force."
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http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489651&highlight=Folding+Hissatsu
"... The knife is a bit stiff, but the action is fast. It produces a nice hard "thwack" when locking."
Why bother you can take the spirng out of the regular one. Theres tools in the box.
To lower the initial opening force necessary to deploy the Hissatsu's blade will require certain tuning modifications to the knife that would with out doubt, void any factory warranty.
These modifications include taper grinding the torsion bar to reduce and redistribute it's strength (stiffness), and/or regrinding the profile of the torsion bar cam on the blade. Both these procedures have to be performed *very* skillfully and patiently using proper tools or you will ruin the performance of the knife, or compromise the safety of it's operation.
Also, do not assume to improve the deployment by simply loosening off the blade pivot pin. Unless the pivot is waaay too tight to begin with there is nothing to be accomplished by backing it off. If you suspect the pivot tension might be too tight, here is how to set the proper tension so that the knife is as tuned as it can be without resorting to more in depth performance modifications.
First, thoroughly clean the blade pivot area. High pressure air does a good job, followed up with a shot of Mil-Comm M25 cleaner/degreaser and *one* drop of Mil-Comm MC2500 oil on the pivot point. Next, with the blade fully deployed, disengage the LAWKs safety and *fully* retract the liner from the stop...make sure it is pinched in far enough to ensure there absolutely no contact with the liner stop. Now, hold the knife in the horizontal position, blade spine up. For optimal pivot tension, the blade should just sag under it's own weight with out suddenly dropping right down. If the pivot tension is adjusted to this specification you should have no perceivable lateral blade play and minimal friction resistance at the blade pivot. I would also advise applying some Mil-Comm TW25B lubricant to the torsion bar cam on the blade. This is the contact surface on which the torsion bar rides, and can be easily seen from above when the knife is closed.
Incidentally, I *highly* recommend Mil-Comm lubrication products for knives and firearms. Simply brilliant, non toxic, extreme duty, high performance lubricants that work.
I should point out that I use the Hissatsu without any mods other than the above stated tuning, and am quite satisfied with the performance. The modifications I mentioned, if done knowledgeably, will certainly result in less effort required to launch the blade, and generally tune up the overall smoothness of the blade deployment...but if you mess up the procedure, you could scrap out the knife. However, if you are determined to get your hands dirty I would first suggest grinding a taper on the torsion bar and see how it goes. If you screw it up, you can always get another bar. If you screw up a blade cam re-profiling...well...you have to replace a more costly part...this possibly after the blade has accidentally deployed in your pocket.
The taper on the torsion bar must be ground as gradually as possible starting from about 1/16" from the tip of the bar at the cam end, finishing to within 1 1/2" or so of the termination in the back spacer. For starters, aim for about 2/3rds of the initial thickness at the cam end. Be patient...grind very easily so as not to get it too hot, and hold the end of the bar in padded vise grips for better security and accuracy. Use a belt grinder. Do *not* try shaping the torsion bar on a common bench grinder. If you get cold feet, and you don't feel up to a full torsion bar mod, you could simply polish the surface that comes in direct contact with the blade cam and leave it at that. It is important that there is as little friction between the blade cam and the torsion bar as is possible, as these are the surfaces that bear the most pressure prior to and during blade deployment.
I would not advise re-profiling the blade cam unless you know what you are doing. Re-profiling the cam can directly influence how quickly the torsion bar assist takes over, and the procedure, besides being more difficult to explain, is more of a machining operation that requires more specific tools and procedures to ensure the best results.
These modifications include taper grinding the torsion bar to reduce and redistribute it's strength (stiffness), and/or regrinding the profile of the torsion bar cam on the blade. Both these procedures have to be performed *very* skillfully and patiently using proper tools or you will ruin the performance of the knife, or compromise the safety of it's operation.
Also, do not assume to improve the deployment by simply loosening off the blade pivot pin. Unless the pivot is waaay too tight to begin with there is nothing to be accomplished by backing it off. If you suspect the pivot tension might be too tight, here is how to set the proper tension so that the knife is as tuned as it can be without resorting to more in depth performance modifications.
First, thoroughly clean the blade pivot area. High pressure air does a good job, followed up with a shot of Mil-Comm M25 cleaner/degreaser and *one* drop of Mil-Comm MC2500 oil on the pivot point. Next, with the blade fully deployed, disengage the LAWKs safety and *fully* retract the liner from the stop...make sure it is pinched in far enough to ensure there absolutely no contact with the liner stop. Now, hold the knife in the horizontal position, blade spine up. For optimal pivot tension, the blade should just sag under it's own weight with out suddenly dropping right down. If the pivot tension is adjusted to this specification you should have no perceivable lateral blade play and minimal friction resistance at the blade pivot. I would also advise applying some Mil-Comm TW25B lubricant to the torsion bar cam on the blade. This is the contact surface on which the torsion bar rides, and can be easily seen from above when the knife is closed.
Incidentally, I *highly* recommend Mil-Comm lubrication products for knives and firearms. Simply brilliant, non toxic, extreme duty, high performance lubricants that work.
I should point out that I use the Hissatsu without any mods other than the above stated tuning, and am quite satisfied with the performance. The modifications I mentioned, if done knowledgeably, will certainly result in less effort required to launch the blade, and generally tune up the overall smoothness of the blade deployment...but if you mess up the procedure, you could scrap out the knife. However, if you are determined to get your hands dirty I would first suggest grinding a taper on the torsion bar and see how it goes. If you screw it up, you can always get another bar. If you screw up a blade cam re-profiling...well...you have to replace a more costly part...this possibly after the blade has accidentally deployed in your pocket.
The taper on the torsion bar must be ground as gradually as possible starting from about 1/16" from the tip of the bar at the cam end, finishing to within 1 1/2" or so of the termination in the back spacer. For starters, aim for about 2/3rds of the initial thickness at the cam end. Be patient...grind very easily so as not to get it too hot, and hold the end of the bar in padded vise grips for better security and accuracy. Use a belt grinder. Do *not* try shaping the torsion bar on a common bench grinder. If you get cold feet, and you don't feel up to a full torsion bar mod, you could simply polish the surface that comes in direct contact with the blade cam and leave it at that. It is important that there is as little friction between the blade cam and the torsion bar as is possible, as these are the surfaces that bear the most pressure prior to and during blade deployment.
I would not advise re-profiling the blade cam unless you know what you are doing. Re-profiling the cam can directly influence how quickly the torsion bar assist takes over, and the procedure, besides being more difficult to explain, is more of a machining operation that requires more specific tools and procedures to ensure the best results.
The knife is very solid, no blade play at ALL. It locks very strong too. What I really noticed with the knife is that its point is the sharpest I've ever seen/used. And yes the assisted open is hard to open, but your thumb gets used to it eventually. Sometimes you just have to man up 
. It's a self defense knife by the way, and if I had to choose any folder for self defense, this would definitely be my first choice.
. It's a self defense knife by the way, and if I had to choose any folder for self defense, this would definitely be my first choice.being "hard to open" is a subjective thing, the one i handled didnt seem bad in that regard, i sure dont remember thinking "gee this thing is hard to open" lol.
Esav Benyamin
MidniteSuperMod
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 90,915
I just refreshed my memory on the specs, including: "To meet jurisdictional regulations, the OutBurst mechanism can be quickly disabled with a single set screw."
I have noticed a problem many people have with thumbstuds or opening discs. They try to deploy the blade by pushing the stud or disc away from the handle. This generally takes a bit of force. What they should be doing is pushing the stud or disc forward, in the direction the blade will end up when fully deployed. MUCH easier.
This seems like an impressive knife: decent steel in AUS8, good size with a blade just under 4" and a full 5" handle, a conveient liner lock that is backed up by an automatically deployed LAWKS, or auxiliary lock. The only drawback is its status as a weapon rather than a utility knife. For some, this will not be a drawback, and for them, I think it's well worth trying.
I have noticed a problem many people have with thumbstuds or opening discs. They try to deploy the blade by pushing the stud or disc away from the handle. This generally takes a bit of force. What they should be doing is pushing the stud or disc forward, in the direction the blade will end up when fully deployed. MUCH easier.
This seems like an impressive knife: decent steel in AUS8, good size with a blade just under 4" and a full 5" handle, a conveient liner lock that is backed up by an automatically deployed LAWKS, or auxiliary lock. The only drawback is its status as a weapon rather than a utility knife. For some, this will not be a drawback, and for them, I think it's well worth trying.
Esav Benyamin
MidniteSuperMod
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 90,915
According to one source I found:
August 2007. The folding version of the Columbia River Hissatsu is here and is available with the Outburst assisted opening feature
August 2007. The folding version of the Columbia River Hissatsu is here and is available with the Outburst assisted opening feature
- Joined
- Nov 7, 1999
- Messages
- 6,651
Hey Guys...
For what it's worth I was pretty impressed with the folder.. I was just recently playing with one at a friends.. It's a sturdy folder,, a little on the bulky side,, but quick and well made...
Personally I wouldn't mind having one...
ttyle
Eric
O/ST
For what it's worth I was pretty impressed with the folder.. I was just recently playing with one at a friends.. It's a sturdy folder,, a little on the bulky side,, but quick and well made...
Personally I wouldn't mind having one...
ttyle
Eric
O/ST
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2008
- Messages
- 6
I think you've got to have very weak hands to feel that the Hissatsu folder is hard to open. My girlfriend, who is 5'2" and 110 lbs, had a hard time opening it but she has a hard time opening soda bottles too. The Hissatsu's action feels dead-on. Stiff enough to stay shut but with just a small flick of your thumb flashes out ready for business. Loooove this knife. However, it's not designed for work unless your job is plunging blades into flesh. This is a mean knife. The tip is NEEDLE sharp and the spine of the blade is beveled to aid penetration. The knife manipulates very well in the hand and has a very secure grip. It has a slim profile and fits well in the pocket. I would've preferred a tip-down orientation of the pocket clip but I am new to this carrying position and am still getting used to it.
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