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Is the lock on my Sebenza OK? Pic >>
- Thread starter Ketsugo
- Start date
bob_glassman
Banned
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2000
- Messages
- 414
It looks fine. My experience has been anything midpoint back is fine. My small unique has a lockup in about the same position. Worry not..
If you are really concerned, call CRK and send them a pic if they don't respond to this thread. That framelock is exceedingly strong. Stronger then any linerlock. If you think about it, the way it is positioned, you have the most contact on the blade by the lock. What more could you ask for???
If you are really concerned, call CRK and send them a pic if they don't respond to this thread. That framelock is exceedingly strong. Stronger then any linerlock. If you think about it, the way it is positioned, you have the most contact on the blade by the lock. What more could you ask for???
ARtsig1
Banned
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2000
- Messages
- 3,692
Both my large standard and large woody engage at about 40% of the blade tang. Both show no evidence of going anywhere! I have found that rotating the stop sleeve can take out some of the lockup if you wish to do so. I have also found that when you tighten the knife up with the blade closed, from having it disassembled of course, that the lock tends to not move over so far. Don't know why, but it does seem to make a difference. Try it and see if it does on yours.
You know, what other forum can you say DISASSEMBLED and not fear about a warranty being voided!!!
You know, what other forum can you say DISASSEMBLED and not fear about a warranty being voided!!!
This thread is hovering right around yours. A quick look turned up this question and quote from the Company on the subject. This should tell you everything you need to know.
"My problem is that the lock travels and hits the opposing liner when a firm grip is applied. I disassembled it and cleaned it thoroughly but the problem persists."
There is nothing to fix!! The lock will move over toward the back of the front handle slab if you press hard on it. After all, it is a spring that has a natural position and can move further if pushed. The spec position for the lock is to cover 75% of the blade. If it falls naturally further than that, we will adjust it.
A difference between the Sebenza and other liner locks is that you can get in behind the lock of a Sebenza and push it over. With the others, you can only push from the top of the liner which is a less effective movement.
We know that a lot of owners of Sebenzas like to adjust the lock and the pivot etc. but we DO discourage this. When we ship the knives, they work the way they are intended and modifications usually end up with something not working right!
- Anne Reeve, 11/03/98
"My problem is that the lock travels and hits the opposing liner when a firm grip is applied. I disassembled it and cleaned it thoroughly but the problem persists."
There is nothing to fix!! The lock will move over toward the back of the front handle slab if you press hard on it. After all, it is a spring that has a natural position and can move further if pushed. The spec position for the lock is to cover 75% of the blade. If it falls naturally further than that, we will adjust it.
A difference between the Sebenza and other liner locks is that you can get in behind the lock of a Sebenza and push it over. With the others, you can only push from the top of the liner which is a less effective movement.
We know that a lot of owners of Sebenzas like to adjust the lock and the pivot etc. but we DO discourage this. When we ship the knives, they work the way they are intended and modifications usually end up with something not working right!
- Anne Reeve, 11/03/98
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2000
- Messages
- 511
As a newbie here please excuse this, but why wouldn't it be better for the blade to be covered more than 75%? Wouldn't more coverage be better as far as preventing the blade from closing prematurely? It looks to be almost perfectly lined-up to me. What am I missing?
Bucky
Bucky
Professor
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 1999
- Messages
- 3,427
It's definitely traveled from it's 75% position, but one of the beauties of the designed, as aforementioned, is that it wears in and not out until the lock naturally slaps the opposite liner.
How long have you been toting/using/opening/flicking that baby? Even though there's nothing wrong with it whatsoever, you might check your stop sleeve to see if the blade tang has worn a nice groove in it. If it is indeed marred a little you'll probably benefit from disassembly and rotating the pin to a lesser worn spot of contact.
Professor.
How long have you been toting/using/opening/flicking that baby? Even though there's nothing wrong with it whatsoever, you might check your stop sleeve to see if the blade tang has worn a nice groove in it. If it is indeed marred a little you'll probably benefit from disassembly and rotating the pin to a lesser worn spot of contact.
Professor.
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2001
- Messages
- 201
Hello John,
The lock on your Sebenza is absolutely great!! Broadly speaking, the more locking bar there is behind the blade, the stronger it is - the only time it would become a problem is if there were any galling (the locking bar was difficult to move aside) or if there were play in the blade. We generally say a 50% to 75% travel is good and within tolerance and even though yours is over 75% it is still absolutely fine!
If either of the two problems mentioned above occur - be sure to send the knife back to us to check it over!
Take care
Anne
CR and his GREAT staff are the B E S T !
John
The lock on your Sebenza is absolutely great!! Broadly speaking, the more locking bar there is behind the blade, the stronger it is - the only time it would become a problem is if there were any galling (the locking bar was difficult to move aside) or if there were play in the blade. We generally say a 50% to 75% travel is good and within tolerance and even though yours is over 75% it is still absolutely fine!
If either of the two problems mentioned above occur - be sure to send the knife back to us to check it over!
Take care
Anne
CR and his GREAT staff are the B E S T !
John
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2001
- Messages
- 234
Artsig1, thank you for your valuable insight.
After reasembling my large, it only was locked up with 25% of the lock bar. Your rotation advice worked. I simply loosened the blade stop and opened and closed the knife a couple of times and left it open while I tightened the screw once more. It locks up at the recomended 75% now.
Good eyes!
After reasembling my large, it only was locked up with 25% of the lock bar. Your rotation advice worked. I simply loosened the blade stop and opened and closed the knife a couple of times and left it open while I tightened the screw once more. It locks up at the recomended 75% now.
Good eyes!
I would of course defer to any experts on this, but:
[all kinds of nonsense deleted by me. I took my Umfaan apart after reading below; my previously eccentric stop pin is quite concentric. That'll teach me to look for what I think is there, find it, and talk nonsense about it, without bothering to take stuff apart.]
So, um, when are folks gonna come out with an eccentric stop pin, huh?
[all kinds of nonsense deleted by me. I took my Umfaan apart after reading below; my previously eccentric stop pin is quite concentric. That'll teach me to look for what I think is there, find it, and talk nonsense about it, without bothering to take stuff apart.]
So, um, when are folks gonna come out with an eccentric stop pin, huh?
stjames
Sebenzanista
- Joined
- Oct 26, 1998
- Messages
- 6,465
Once more, the stop pin is not eccentric.
You can rotate the stop pin when the area that contacts the blade begins to wear or flatten out. This gives you a fresh spot for the contact point. It is not designed to compensate for wear on the lock bar.
You can rotate the stop pin when the area that contacts the blade begins to wear or flatten out. This gives you a fresh spot for the contact point. It is not designed to compensate for wear on the lock bar.
Thanks, Mr Segura, for your timely correction. I'm very embarassed about having writen such complete fiction just because I was too lazy to really look. I just deleted the whole thing because I didn't want crack-influenced info to ruin anybody's Seb of Umf.
I did just take apart and reassemble my Umfaan several times. I think I may have found something that may be applicable. On my Umfaan, it's possible for the p-b washer under the non-lockbar scale to migrate a little bit before final tightening. This causes the blade to be out of alignment when both open and closed; the locking bar can travel ofarther than normal in this case.
I'm not saying this is THE cause for anybody; I just hope this info might be useful to somebody. Especially people reassembling stff.
The way to best make sure this doesn't happen on my Umf is to depress the locking bar out of the way during reassembly, make sure the washer is in its proper place, then put the locking scale into position. Then I tighten the pivot screw to almost tight - tight enough to make sure nothing migrates, but not final tightness. Then I tighten the stop and end screws to almost tight, then I do a final tightening on all screws. I keep the locking bar outof the way during the whole operation.
And I think a four-position eccentric stop-pin with wee locating posts or radial grooves would be cool, too.
I did just take apart and reassemble my Umfaan several times. I think I may have found something that may be applicable. On my Umfaan, it's possible for the p-b washer under the non-lockbar scale to migrate a little bit before final tightening. This causes the blade to be out of alignment when both open and closed; the locking bar can travel ofarther than normal in this case.
I'm not saying this is THE cause for anybody; I just hope this info might be useful to somebody. Especially people reassembling stff.
The way to best make sure this doesn't happen on my Umf is to depress the locking bar out of the way during reassembly, make sure the washer is in its proper place, then put the locking scale into position. Then I tighten the pivot screw to almost tight - tight enough to make sure nothing migrates, but not final tightness. Then I tighten the stop and end screws to almost tight, then I do a final tightening on all screws. I keep the locking bar outof the way during the whole operation.
And I think a four-position eccentric stop-pin with wee locating posts or radial grooves would be cool, too.
stjames
Sebenzanista
- Joined
- Oct 26, 1998
- Messages
- 6,465
Sunya, no problem, for some reason it is a common misconception that the Sebenza uses an eccentric stop pin. Aligning the washers correctly when reassembling the knife is the trickiest part of the process, alright, hard to get it right the first time out! Good to hear you like your Umfaan, what pattern did you get?