Is the new BK2 any better?

The knife you have is fine. You're not going to break it and if you do you have bigger problems. Really anything over 1/8" thick should be pretty indestructable with sane use. When batonning stay away from knots and really twisted grain. Splitting wood with a baton is pretty easy and shouldn't require much force to do. If you find you're hitting the knife too hard then adjust how you're doing it, grab another log to split or just plain throw the whole log on the fire. :D
 
theonceremoved said:
wow I there's something you don't see in knife reviews on the bk2, do you think batoning would cause the same thing to happen there has to be close to the same amount of shock to the blade I would think
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Heavens no. Batoning and throwing are very different.

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Beckerhead #42
 
Does anyone know what the heat treat issues on the camillus bk2s were and they have a significant impact on their reliability or function?
 
clich said:
No its a different form of shock. Physics. With batoning energy is transferred from the moving baton to the stationary knife which then transfer to the log being split. Some energy is lost both back to the baton (you can see that with dents in the baton) but most is transferred into the log being split with the knife just transferring.. With throwing all of the energy is in the knife and that energy comes to a rapid hault when it hits said target. In that case it was a tree I believe. Since the tree isn't going to split to allow the release of energy, most of the stored inertia energy is transfered back into the knife after impact. Thus causes the extra stress.


Technically it voids the warranty to baton, but in reality the bk2 can take that and then some. Don't worry about breaking a new bk2. And if you do I forsee Kabar stepping up and taking care of you as long as you don't break it in.a vice on purpose
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THIS ^^.

Also, your hand on the handle when chopping or batoning absorbs quite a bit of energy as well (which you can totally feel when you're batoning or chopping...). When you throw a knife it basically is free to resonate like a tuning fork (or a bell for instance), and its the that type of energy that is the problem.

Batoning is kind of the idea of a having two croquet balls next to each other, and having the one in the front move when you hit the one in the back. The energy more or less just goes straight into the other croquet ball.

ANY BK2 should be fine batoning.

:D.
 
theonceremoved said:
Does anyone know what the heat treat issues on the camillus bk2s were and they have a significant impact on their reliability or function?
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From what I gather as an outsider, corners were cut. Which I don't know, but I'd trust the Kabar stuff more than the camillus
 
I did notice when I stripped the finish off the steel Had marks in it, something like pull marks or elongated divits too deep to sand out by hand or rather too deep for me to sand out by hand lol
 
After cruizn around your site I'm kinda leaning towards a custom knife I seen in the for sale section only thing is I just got out of the dog house and another knife purchase is a one way tickett back
 
You asked for other 5" x .25" knives of 1095 steel. Here is my long time friend, an RC-5 (Now 'ESEE-5'.) with last summer's addition - a BK-2 with the aftermarket Micarta grips:

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I bought my son a BK-2 for Christmas from a site better known for it's books/e-books - and they still have them now for <$62 shipped. The OEM 'Kraton-like' handle is perfectly fine. The aftermarket Micarta grip on mine is crudely finished and not worth the $44+ some places get for it. The RC-5 is prettier - but doesn't split as well - that pebbled finish wears better than the slick finish of the BK-2, but the latter is better at 'splitting' wood.

Stainz
 
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