Is the Wicked Edge worth a try if I already own EP?

Fvdk, have you tried the KME? I'm wondering if I could get your thoughts in comparing both systems... there's not much on KME vs Wicked edge
 
I wish I would have given the KME system a closer look. Looks like a very competent design. I'm curious mostly about the blade clamping system.
 
Fvdk, have you tried the KME? I'm wondering if I could get your thoughts in comparing both systems... there's not much on KME vs Wicked edge

Let's just say that there are not that many systems that I do not have or have tried :-)

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I like the KME, it is a very nice system at an (in my opinion) affordable price. It will handle most knives and Ron's customer service is top notch so I can certainly recommend it.
It has a permanent place on my work table and I use it a lot. I would say that the standard KME diamond kit ($179.95) is functionally more or less comparable to the basic Wicked Edge system ($299.-)

The Wicked Edge Pro Pack II with all the extra accessories that I have like the extra ceramic stones, 3micron diamond stones, glass blanks, strops, and diamond films/sprays is well over $1000,- so it would not be fair to compare it to the KME.

Both systems will get your knives very very sharp but even with my Lansky systems I can get my knives sharper than I would ever realistically need. If you know the basic principles of sharpening and how to use the different systems, it is more about personal preferences, how much you want to spend, how much time you want to spend etc....

Personally I have a preference for the WE because of the build quality, versatility and the way it works (using both hands)
 
Fvdk, have you tried the KME? I'm wondering if I could get your thoughts in comparing both systems... there's not much on KME vs Wicked edge

I've tried both... they both work well. I think the biggest decision on which to get would be the number of knives you plan on sharpening. The cost, if you 'build' a KME setup to match the number of stones in a WE setup, is actually comparable. But the initial investment of the WE... probably not worth it if you're only going to maintain a handle of knives (although you could more than likely pass it down to the next generation). 2nd consideration might be the time spent sharpening.

I wish I would have given the KME system a closer look. Looks like a very competent design. I'm curious mostly about the blade clamping system.

In the end, not a big difference... both hold the knife well enough to do the job. The KME comes with rubber inserts... they actually don't hold as well, but good enough. The WE has better grip, but in some cases you need to tape the blade.
 
There is one very distinct difference between the KME and many of the other systems. That is, because of the swivel, you can work both sides of the knife with your dominant hand. This allows better control (for me), especially for very light touch fine tuning. At least as far as my personal coordination.

Granted with a little practice, this may be a non-issue. But for me it was actually a steep learning curve, especially on the EP. And I still think it affects some of the fine tuning on my EP. With the KME, it's a non-issue right out of the box. But if I try fvdk's EP magnet trick, it may become less of an issue. One of my biggest trip ups, was the fact that a lot of pressure needs to be added to the blade to keep it in place. And very light pressure on the stone arm for actual work. Then reversed when knife is flipped.


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People Are Strange, When You're a Stranger.
 
I'm looking for any excuse to buy the wicked edge field and sport pro for $500... But the KME and the worksharp ken onion hav filled every sharpening gap I have.... :(
 
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As a knife Knut, I just really want to be able to take a picture like fvdk's above. [emoji41]


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People Are Strange, When You're a Stranger.
 
I have only used the EP, but if you're having trouble getting even bevels, especially with the harder steels, I highly recommend the diamond plate from the place you can buy chef knives. I use it to set the initial bevel and from there the stock stones do a good job refining and polishing for me. There are other accessories that make it more user friendly as well.


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Let's just say that there are not that many systems that I do not have or have tried :-)

21638265342_2636ea7aaa_c.jpg


I like the KME, it is a very nice system at an (in my opinion) affordable price. It will handle most knives and Ron's customer service is top notch so I can certainly recommend it.
It has a permanent place on my work table and I use it a lot. I would say that the standard KME diamond kit ($179.95) is functionally more or less comparable to the basic Wicked Edge system ($299.-)

The Wicked Edge Pro Pack II with all the extra accessories that I have like the extra ceramic stones, 3micron diamond stones, glass blanks, strops, and diamond films/sprays is well over $1000,- so it would not be fair to compare it to the KME.

Both systems will get your knives very very sharp but even with my Lansky systems I can get my knives sharper than I would ever realistically need. If you know the basic principles of sharpening and how to use the different systems, it is more about personal preferences, how much you want to spend, how much time you want to spend etc....

Personally I have a preference for the WE because of the build quality, versatility and the way it works (using both hands)
Holy hell you got quite the Arsenal there.

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There is one very distinct difference between the KME and many of the other systems. That is, because of the swivel, you can work both sides of the knife with your dominant hand. This allows better control (for me), especially for very light touch fine tuning. At least as far as my personal coordination.

Granted with a little practice, this may be a non-issue. But for me it was actually a steep learning curve, especially on the EP. And I still think it affects some of the fine tuning on my EP. With the KME, it's a non-issue right out of the box. But if I try fvdk's EP magnet trick, it may become less of an issue. One of my biggest trip ups, was the fact that a lot of pressure needs to be added to the blade to keep it in place. And very light pressure on the stone arm for actual work. Then reversed when knife is flipped.

Shouldn't... watch this video (at the 5 min. mark). (It took me a while to figure this out).

[video=youtube;CY6DJ0PQxyA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CY6DJ0PQxyA[/video]
 
Which one has more repeatability? Also, which one is less likely to scratch up the blade? My biggest complaint of the kme is my scratched up blades... :(

And sometimes I get a little in to it and end up pulling the rod out of the eyelet on the down stroke...
 
Which one has more repeatability? Also, which one is less likely to scratch up the blade? My biggest complaint of the kme is my scratched up blades... :(

All have 'repeatability'... I think it's just a matter of learning the device. As for scratching, the easiest solution is to tape your blade (no matter what you use to sharpen).

... And sometimes I get a little in to it and end up pulling the rod out of the eyelet on the down stroke...

Add a stop like a 'drill stop collar'. I drilled a hole thru a wine bottle top and use that..

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Holy hell you got quite the Arsenal there.

:-)

Which one has more repeatability? Also, which one is less likely to scratch up the blade? My biggest complaint of the kme is my scratched up blades... :(

And sometimes I get a little in to it and end up pulling the rod out of the eyelet on the down stroke...

With the KME and the WE I have never had any problems with scratching, I did with the EP and Work Sharp so like Curtis says, the easiest solution is to tape up the blade.
 
I couldn't be happier with my WE. I can make edges that can cut through space and time itself. Zero complaints, and I've gotten to the point where it's VERY repeatable and very quick. I bought the gen3 system, with pretty much all the stones and strops and yes it hurt ($$), but it's a lifetime tool.
 
I couldn't be happier with my WE. I can make edges that can cut through space and time itself. Zero complaints, and I've gotten to the point where it's VERY repeatable and very quick. I bought the gen3 system, with pretty much all the stones and strops and yes it hurt ($$), but it's a lifetime tool.

This^^^^
I made a delicious sandwich out of two pieces of time and a couple slices of space. Threw in some wormholes for flavor. Sharp, yea, we got that.:thumbup:
 
Let's just say that there are not that many systems that I do not have or have tried :-)

21638265342_2636ea7aaa_c.jpg



fvdk- I've literally lost my mind deciding which system and looks like you are my savior.... congratulations

Bought an EP Apex 4, but haven't used it yet bc unsure and want to be able to return it. Considering everything you have, but really focusing on powered options either as stand alone or to compliment a stone system.

Would you recommend Tormek T4 w knife jig(s)+ EP or KME? Does your Tormek see a lot of action sharpening knives? Where do you rank it against EP/KME/WE?

Really appreciate any feedback. Thanks
 
.... forgot most important detail

I'm disabled w vascular/ nerve problems that cause weakness and muscle fatigue - this is why I need a guided setup. Health problems came on suddenly a few years ago and left me disabled in my 30s.

Previously sharpened freehand w good enough results, but can no longer do it at all. I have a bag full knives w edges that are museum worthy bad in every possible way from trying.

I am now obsessed w obtaining the 'perfect' solution. Having unlimited time does not help. Really hope I can enjoy my time sharpening as a hobby, and maybe a few extra bucks eventually.
 
rolleroh2: Sorry about your situation. I'm not fvdk, but I've used a lot of different equipment... pretty much what he has in the photo.

I obviously don't know your whole situation, but from your brief description, I would consider the Ken Onion WorkSharp, with the Blade Grinding Attachment. (The links are just provided for information... shop for prices). :) I use it a lot, and the 'guide' is basically holding the knife level against the belt. Variable speed allows you control over the sharpening process, and prevents overheating. The belt sets the angle, but you have control over the blade to make repairs, adjustments, etc. A variety of belts lets you achieve the finish level you want.

I also like the Tormek, and use it for sharpening (but mostly repairs). One thing you might consider though, it's a heavier machine (20-30 lbs. depending on the model), compared to other options, if that matters. Plus, it's strength is really woodworking tools, although I think it does a great job on knives. But, IMO, the WorkSharp setup is more adept, and versatile when it comes to knives (and cheaper if that matters). My thinking is, I control the knife, and let the machine do the work.

Anyway, that's my .02. Hope it helps. (If not what you're looking for, no problem letting me know... I'm sure others will have ideas).
 
Thanks so much cbwx34 - WSKO has def been on my radar as well. It seems like a really great tool and I'm going to give it a shot.

Apologize for hijacking this thread w off topic question - realized after. It's that whole I'm the center of the universe problem. Should I request to have my posts removed?
 
rolleroh2, I am using KME with a gimp non-dominent hand from a mis-adventure back in the day - Fleetwood Mac concert / riot. I clamp each knife by positioning with the blade sticking out from the edge of a table. Works great. Wish I would have taped my first knife for using the 130 grit, but aesthetics aside, that 710-D2 makes no noise slicing paper. None.
As a guided systems rookie with only seven knives sharpened on our KME (to the 1500 grit stone), purchased as a training aid to un-couple some variables for the kids, I am blown away by the consistency of the bevels and the edges we are getting. I'm tempted to shave using my 710-1401 to demonstrate sharp.
 
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