Is there a Journeyman or Master smith near me.

dsgibbs1

dsgibbs1

Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
325
I was wondering if there might be a registered ABS member near me. I am doing ok in my bladesmithing, I just want to ask a few informed questions to them. One I really want answered is about grain growth. I forge, ht, and grind all my stuff. Yet except for books and Bladeforums and JD. I have almost no working knowledge of the actual way its supposed to look in a crosscut section of finished blade. While I am willing to forge a blade just to take to them and break. If it takes it, I will forge one and anneal it then forge, grind and ht one to take. I just have questions. Another question I have is about the flat grind. How is it done where the shoulders look so crisp? The best I can do is a flat grind on the bottom of the wheel. So here are a sampling of whats floating around as I work in the shop. Anyone near that can spare a few minutes?
 
knifepics005.jpg
This is a picture of what I mean by flat grinding that I do.
 
Hi dsgibbs1 -- I'm sure some folks will pitch some ideas your way. You might want to look at the Bladesmiths listings of MS and JS (soon will have AS (apprentices) listed too) bladesmiths on the ABS website. -- All the best, Phil
 
Is this an updated list? I see several in the surrounding areas. I thank you for sending me there.
 
Yes the ABS list is kept updated. Now if the smith has moved then it is up to them to update the info. Give someone a call or drop them an email The greater majority of us are very willing to help out. Welcome to the obsession.
 
The others have given good advice about finding help. i would add a couple of suggestions. Go to a hammer in the first chance that you get. As for big, grain, you will now it when you see it. it looks like ugly beach sand. Bailey Bradshaw taught me a little test. When you put an edge on your knife with say the belt grinder, if you can draw out a long floppy, wire edge that you can move around like tissue paper, you probably have some pretty fine grain, at least with carbon steel. As far as flat grinds go, get a platen. I do my plunge cuts by clamping my Uncle Al carbide faced file guide to the blade and running it right up against the edge of the platen. Make sue you normalize your blades a couple of times after forging. Also, go to a website like Kevin Cashen's for some info. He and others will tell you that certain higher alloy steels should propably not be given the old quick and dirty wood ash or kitty liter (vermiculite) anneal as it can do more harm than good.
 
Thanks for the response guys. The steels I mainly forge are the 10xx series, some 5160, W1, and recently I took a massive 52100 bearing and made some stock. Mr. Ayres, I use a Wilton grinder. 10" wheel, I also have a platen. When I flat grind I use the bottom of the wheel. Its how I was shown by a friend. His method has no shoulders. I have a carbide guide that I use for my hollow grind, i.e. bump the wheel and go the other way. I am just a newbie I guess. I hate wasting steel when I mess up on something.
I have checked out the Bladesmithing school. At this time, wife and kids, bills. That option is out. The hammer in option is a maybe. If one takes place nearby, 2 hours away or so, I will check it out. So I will continue to learn, mess up and ask questions.
Thanks again.
DSG
 
The NC knife makers guild meets once every 3 months at Montgomery community college in Troy NC . The next meeting is the 21st I think.
 
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