Is there a way to fix these nicks?

G

grindemup

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Nov 9, 2013
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Is there a way to fix these nicks? i'm not sure i can grind the tang down much further, the profile will change. I thought of doing oen of those swirly patterns, but not sure how that will turn out.

Also thought about simply grinding the corner of the tang and matching the handles to it, again, not sure how it would turn out

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As you can see on this next one, i accidently ground on the guard. here will be wooden bolster that will match the shape of the guard.

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Thanks for the help and advice
 
That looks like pretty thick steel. I have trouble grinding the ricosso where I didn't mean to, so I understand.

Doing what you said, rounding the edges and having the scales contoured to match sounds like a viable option if the dings are really shallow, but others can give a better idea about how well it would work.
 
The tang looks pretty thick. If you tapered the tang you would get rid of the nicks as well as lighten the handle.
 
Round the guard on the other side the same as the side down by accident. Who says it can't be that way? Frank
 
Tapering it would help with the weight. Right now its balanced at the first pin. How would I do the taper? Would have to be an even taper and an equal one on the handle.
 
Just a comment, but if you shape the wooden bolsters to match that guard, the tips will snap off the first time they get bumped....if they even survive sanding and finishing.
 
Frank Niro said:
Round the guard on the other side the same as the side down by accident. Who says it can't be that way? Frank
Click to expand...
Yep, make it look like you ment to do it that way...:)

I like the rounded tang with slightly recessed scales idea.
 
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night man said:
Can we see a pic of the whole knife? I have an idea but I would have to see the knife.
Click to expand...

The main thing about curling the front of the guard is that i wanted to have the bolster conform to the shape of the guard. I guess now ill have to curve the front of the guard and conform the bolster to "angle" or "bezel" down to the front of the guard where it will start to curve, showing some of the metal guard in front of the bolster.

i dunno, maybe itl look good that way.
 
I make most of my fixed blades with an exposed guard and an exposed pommel so this is my idea. I also located some smaller pins in the handle for you. Good luck.

 
night man said:
I make most of my fixed blades with an exposed guard and an exposed pommel so this is my idea. I also located some smaller pins in the handle for you. Good luck.
Click to expand...

What do you think of this. the bolster will have a bit of a brown grain in it. i change the bolster to the bottom corner

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If you look at the bolster you have drawn, there is a sharp point at the top and the bottom along the ricasso. Such a narrow piece of wood will snap off when it is bumped in use, or when you are trying to shape the bolster in sanding.

Try it if you wish, but expect to be upset when one or more of the corners pops off. Micarta or G-10 will be tougher than wood, but even those can have small points snap off.

The standard method of designing wooden handle shapes is to have no angles much below 90°, and curves are preferred over angles. Corners should be rounded if at all possible.
 
bladsmth said:
If you look at the bolster you have drawn, there is a sharp point at the top and the bottom along the ricasso. Such a narrow piece of wood will snap off when it is bumped in use, or when you are trying to shape the bolster in sanding.

Try it if you wish, but expect to be upset when one or more of the corners pops off. Micarta or G-10 will be tougher than wood, but even those can have small points snap off.

The standard method of designing wooden handle shapes is to have no angles much below 90°, and curves are preferred over angles. Corners should be rounded if at all possible.
Click to expand...

maybe i should sand the sides of hte tang down a bit so the bolster will sit down into the metal? that way the corners will come down flush with the metal and be protected by the metal?
 
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That won't work at all. It's not the little tiny spot against the steel. It's the whole pointy section that is weak and will break off. As a side note, in my opinion the bolster you have drawn is too pointy, does not compliment the knife, and is way too far up the blade. It covers most of the ricasso and is too close to the plunge. It will look strange, be fragile, and be a in the way when you are trying to sharpen the knife. Again, sanding the tang will not help this at all, the solution is to bring the bolster back farther from the plunge and give it a rounded curve on the face.
 
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