Is there anything else like the Jenny Wren on the market?

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May 27, 2000
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I really want the JW, but they are very hard to come by. Is anyone else making something in the petite, super light, full tang tomahawk market? There's the Winkler II Stealth and Hunters Axes, but I prefer the straight haft of the Jenny as well as the extra length.

Pf course quality comes first, but price is a consideration since I want to get the JW eventually. Buying a different ~$500 hawk would really set me back.

Thanks
 
Yet, buying anything decent will be money not towards a JW. The closest thing to the JW would be the CRKT Kangee. I own both, and the Kangee is larger, longer, heavier, but very close in many ways. Maybe get a Kangee and cut the handle shorter?
AT the bottom of page 3 there are some pics of a Kangee and JW together...http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1028826-CRK-amp-T-tomahawks/page3

Nothing else is as light, and functional as the JW, and the price is fair for the quality.
 
The price is absolutely fair. I just somewhere to send the money. I keep tossing the Kangee and Chogan around, but ultimately don't really like the handles. The TAD JW is what I really need, as I prefer a hammer poll for utility and combatives, but I have only seen one actually for sale, and it was a little more than (or maybe like double) what I would like to spend.
 
For around $575 you can get the Winkler Camp Axe, it's longer and heavier than the JW, but better for camping anyway...Sounds like what you want, straight handle, "light weight", hammer poll(it's 3/8" thick, JW and Chogan are only 1/4" thick). Weight is a good thing when it's in the head, and the Winkler Camp Axe has a great weight forward feel.

It's in the middle...

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It's nice and I do want one, but I want light weight not "light weight". Something I could carry in a shoulder holster for a 6 mile+ trail run and not feel run down. The JW seems perfect for this, but they rarely turn up, and never when I have the money to spend :-/

Perhaps one of the fine custom makers here on this forum could could make an original design. Time to break out the graph paper...
 
I just went hiking with my Camp Axe on my shoulder sling, I didn't notice it much. Running, it would be a bit heavy for that.
 
Yeah, the weight is a killer. I have no problem hauling the physical mass, but the movement/inertia is what concerns me. I'm thinking something similarly sized to the JW in 3/16 stock with thinish, decently textured G10 scales. I'd take a Equinox Trail Hawk, but the thickness at the eye makes it uncomfortable to carry this way. I have to work tonight, but I'll try to get something drawn up in by the end of the weekend.
 
I've been thinking about the " Hardcore Hardware from Australia" brand. Looking at the LFT01. like to hear folks thoughts. Similar to the Jenny Wren in my eyes.
 
Have you checked out the Omnivore Blade Works stuff yet? The smaller models seem thin and packable. I've never held one so I don't know how much of the claimed 1.5lb weight is in the micarta handles...

http://selfrelianceessentials.com/2011/02/jackal-tomahawk/

I have, but there are a few things about them that I simply don't like.


I've been thinking about the " Hardcore Hardware from Australia" brand. Looking at the LFT01. like to hear folks thoughts. Similar to the Jenny Wren in my eyes.

It's similar in length, but at about 2 pounds it's too heavy for this task.



I'm pretty content with how my design is going so far now. Once I'm mostly satisfied, I'll post (probably in its own thread, and maybe here too) for feedback.
 
Hey Scouter,

Probably not quite what you're looking for (it has more of a contoured handle and a spike) but I figured why not share a pic of my Imp Axe. Overall it's a pretty compact and light-weight design, less than 12" long, 0.3" thick S7 steel, with a tapered and skeletonized tang. Carries real easy and packs a solid punch.
impaxes.jpg


Looking forward to seeing your design when you're done :)
 
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The head shape on mine is actually coming out quite similar to that. Center the handle a bit, straighten it out, full length scales and cut the stock about in half and we'd be in business.


I'm not sure how I feel about going with a spike. I'm thinking 3/16" stock, to save weight. A "hammer" poll would be essentially a functional chisel, due to the width. I have a few reasons for liking the hammer, but I've never thought before about using 3/16 stock for a 'hawk. I realize that going to .25" or even .3 and a tapered/skeletonized tang could do the same for weight, but that really complicates the making of this, and I am also tossing around the idea of a high performance stainless, as it will be exposed to a lot of moisture in the form of sweat. I'm not an expert, by any means, but I don't see a lot of makers forging stainless steels, understandably. There's also the issue of cost. There is a lot of attention required to taper a tang, and that comes with added expense.

Also, even at 0.30", that's a mighty thin hammer. A spike may be the preferred choice here. I definitely (100%) want a significant trailing mass of some sort. That is non-negotiable.

Any input from anyone still following this thread?
 
Forging stainless is pretty tricky and frankly I don't see much benefit in it. That said, what you're looking for could be done pretty easily through other means. And tapering tangs is simple work too.

Is there a specific weight threshold you're targeting? Because honestly I think you can still get a very lightweight but more effective tool using thicker stock.

Keep in mind that weight distribution on a compact axe like this can have a big impact on performance, so an axe that's 3/16 all the way though simply won't swing and chop as well as one with a more weight-forward design, even if they're both the same overall weight. So if you start with quarter inch or even 3/8 stock but you remove a bunch of material by skeletonizing and tapering the tang to make it lighter, I think you'll be much better off.

And you could probably have it made to your specs pretty easily too.

Draw up a design in CAD, get some steel, have your design cut out on a waterjet, and then send it to a custom maker to grind and heat treat. The waterjet will make quick work of the profile, including a skeletonized tang, and the maker can taper the tang and grind the bevels fairly easily. All-in you can have YOUR design custom made just for you in a fairly reasonable time frame and price budget.

One last thing - even if the axe will be exposed to a lot of moisture, I probably wouldn't recommend stainless. All that chromium just doesn't lend itself to superior chopping performance. And a properly coated or blued carbon steel blade won't rust unless you practically ask it to. I mean, it might stain a bit, but unless you leave it completely exposed to the elements for weeks at a time it's just not going to rust out on you. I cold blue my axes and the oxides from the bluing protect the outer surfaces well enough that I don't need to clean or oil them at all
 
I'm not sure that adding weight by using thicker stock will improve the performance of this tool. Using a few non-metal training hawks seems to suggest the same. I'm not going to be processing any quantities of wood with it. Ever. The most wilderness oriented task I can see it ever getting use for is being a tool to help start a fire. I don't need axe-like performance for that. What I need is a knife with a little extra horse power for when other, more immediate survival needs come knocking (while still being a viable tool). I'd like to keep the weight under 20 ounces and the thickness under 1", hopefully 18oz and .75" max thickness. I could do with lighter, but any thinner would start into uncomfortable.

I've read several times that making a tapered tang would be easy. Why, then, don't more manufactures/makers offer this in full tang 'hawks? I'd be more than happy to have more weight in the head, but not at the cost of overall weight. If I can find a maker equipped to do this it'll be worth looking in to, for sure.


I'm not very familiar with CAD. I may start looking for freeware versions, and see what I can do. I'll still have to get my start on paper. What can I say, I get lost driving but never on foot. Technology will forever hate me, thankfully ;)
 
Just to clarify, my point was not so much about adding weight, but about the weight's distribution. If you have a one pound axe that's handle heavy, it won't swing with nearly the same inertia and force as a one pound axe with more of a forward balance, where the bulk its mass is concentrated near the head in front of a lighter tapered, hollow tang.

The reason most manufacturers don't do this is that it adds a few steps to the process which makes it much more time consuming and increases wear on equipment. They also know that most of their customers buy their product based primarily on looks and price, with much less consideration given to actual performance. In the world of manufactured hawks and tactical axes, even $20 can make a big difference in how well the product sells. That's why the more discerning, performance oriented customers typically choose a custom axe from a skilled maker, leaving the factory made products to the more budget oriented or less discriminating clientele.

By the way if you draw out your design on graph paper you can estimate the total weight by counting up all the filled in "squares" to approximate your total area, multiplying it by the thickness of your stock to come up with your volume, and then multiplying the total volume by 0.283 (the weight in pounds of one cubic inch of steel). Remember to subtract about 40% of the volume from the beveled edge and another 25-30% of the volume of the tapered tang.

Also, if CAD isn't an option for you, then you can have your paper drawing converted into CAD format by your friendly local waterjet cutter. He'll charge you a fee to do that though. And quite honestly, the more I think about it, given your needs it probably makes more sense just to contact a custom maker to build one for you.
 
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I get what you were saying, but inertia works the same no matter what, good or bad. More inertia means that it will take more effort to change directions. I would be essentially trading the striking power for speed. I plan to make a lexan or wooden cutout, unless I can find something closer to the density of steel that is equally inexpensive. I'd go with aluminum, but I can't cut that myself easily, and I don't want to deal with the hassle and expense of having it made.

All that seems like it's probably more clear in my head.
 
You've clearly given this a great deal of thought. You know what you want and have very good reasons for it. I just want to add that in my own experience, both speed and power can coexist quite happily together in a light, compact axe :) And for what it's worth, I'm not sure if there's any maker today who has put more axes into the hands of high-speed, tier 1 combat operators as Dan Winkler, and he also builds them with slightly thicker stock and fully tapered tangs. It's a formula that works well for many discriminating users.

Maybe one of these days when I get caught up on other projects I'll make two axes with the same profile, same weight, but different weight distribution just so I can gain an even better appreciation for the tradeoff between speed and power. Would be an interesting experiment...
 
I, too, feel that I've learned a lot in out brief exchange. I truly appreciate your input, and I am presently looking into custom makers with the necessary equipment to do a nice tapered tang. I'd prefer to find someone locally(ish) if I can. I'm also looking for some CAD software that won't set me too far back so I can get a better appreciation for the weight reduction of the tapered tang and skeletonizing.

thank you.
 
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