Is there anything wrong with a little bit of blade wobble?

Good point Peter!

I've taken apart MANY folders both factory and custom. I've often been surprised by what I find. If the controlling dimensions will allow it (space between the pivot pin and lock engagement area) why not use the largest bushings as possible?? :eek:

One other thing to check if you are comfortable taking your liner locks apart..... DONT READ FURHTER IF YOU AREN'T :p

The back spacer HAS to be exactly the same thickness as the blade and bushings combined. If the back spacer is too thin or too thick, the frame at the bushing area will not be parallel. When you tighten the pivot screw, the pressure will not be distributed evenly around the bushings. It may be only a few thousandths but to remove all blade play, and still have a smooth pivot, this small amount is important. If the knife uses Teflon (soft white) bushings, it would be wise to make the back spacer .005-.010 thinner than the blade/bushings. I don’t think many factory knives use Teflon. The reason for this is that in order for Teflon bushings to work properly they must compress.

In order to accomplish this you have to be able to measure the blade PLUS the bushings using a caliper or Micrometer. Once this is done, you can remove material from or add shims to the back spacer to make it the same width. Most backspacers can be sanded on a flat surface if too thick. If they are too thin, brass shim stock or plastic shim can be added. I use the plastic from cigar wrappers!! Some factory knives are so far off you can see it by just looking at the gap in the frame between the blade and the back spacer!! If you don’t have a mic or caliper comparing the blade/bushings to the backspacer is possible bye eye as long as you have a clean flat surface. You might not be able to make them perfect but closer is better!!

Neil
 
Art,

I don't think you need to go pulling apart any of the folders you've purchased lately:rolleyes:


Neil
 
Oh ohh:eek: Too late for that Neil..............they done ALL been apart, inspected, cleaned, relubed, and given my 100% totally satisfied clearance. Now if I could just get them danged handles off that Dozier, I'd inspect it!!;) :D
 
I've had lots of folders, including some throw-away Taiwanese rip offs of more famous designs. None had blade play either in half-open or fully locked positions. Dr Lathe is quite right, the back spacer or the standoff devices they use to separate the 2 handle panels have to be absolutely aligned and the correct width. Otherwise, doesn't matter how hard you work on that pivot screw, you're just bending the handle panels without getting a true flat engagement across the entire pivot region of the blade tang for proper pivoting.

A little play now will turn out badly later on. These things only get worse, especially on knives that do the hard yards. Folders need to be nicely put together. The integrity and durability of the knife depends heavily on ALL parts locking up together, not relying on one small part of area making up for deficiencies elsewhere. And parts on folders tend to be very small anyhow. These things wear faster than on big fixed knives and can break catastrophically when you least want them to.

Thats why if I want to buy a folder I'd want it done by someone who knows what they are doing.

And please, don't take the Dozier folder apart... please ...
 
The Dozier is a fixed blade and I was only making a joke as those handles are pinned and epoxied on. I have had 5 different Dozier folders in the past couple of years and took everyone of them apart with no problems though. Are you referring to the pivot that Bob uses or the locking system?
 
this is probably a stupid question. but, once i have adjusted the pivot screw after it came from the factory, am i supposed to put locktite on the pivot screw threads?



thank you,
holdanedge.
 
Whew, Artsig1.
You had me going there for a while. I am a bit of a Dozier fan as I think he turns out some of the most awesome working knives. Ironically, I get a bit iffy about taking apart (I thought you were talking about) a Dozier folder. I just won't touch it. This is one knife I baby. I don't have a Dozier folder, but they are so clinical, so precisely made, I just about worship it. You obviously know what you are doing. I don't take apart any of my custom knives anymore.

I need more therapy.

Cheers.
 
holdanedge,

If the screw comes loose after repeated openings, I would Loctite it. You can also try teflon plumbing tape. In reading the forums, I see a lot of people use it. I prefer the liquid thread lockers myself.

Neil
 
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