Is this normal for MANIX?

Yep, that makes sense to me, too.

People worrying about the inadvertent closure of a modern locking folding knife such as those made by Spyderco, when the vast majority of applications apply force in the direction of opening... it just doesn't make sense to me.


-Jeffrey
 
I personally think that there is just too much of an issue made with "blade Play" on some Spyderco models. What little blade play I've found either in lockback Spyders or ones with compression locks is so slight I would have to measure it in microns.

The Manix model is built on such a solid frame that it would take 6 times the punishment that most production knives would. But if any of you ever do have a problem as a result of minute blade play I would love to know about it.

I will admit though that my 80mm Manix ( smaller one) is about as perfectly tight as any Spyder I've ever owned.
 
Summary of the thread so far:

- A little bit of blade play is normal/common for the lock-back Spydercos but there are exceptions as even some cheaper models are rock stable;

- One person (JD Spydo) confirms that the "mini", 80mm Manix is perfectly tight;

- The position of the lock-release button of the Manix may lead to accidental release in certain grips. That personally bothers my much more than the slight blade play;

-My Paramilitary (compression lock) has zero blade play. However, it opened several times in my pocket while I was jogging. Since then I carry it only in horizontal position, blade down.

- The Manix blade seems much less vulnerable to accidental opening, compared to Paramilitary, as even when the lock is fully released while the knife is held with the blade down, the gravitation does NOT open the blade.

- Everybody seems to have different opinion about the knife use for SD:)
 
Also know that zero blade play in a Para is pretty rare. I sent mine in for terrible bladeplay and is came back with minor blade play. I have an 80mm Manix that is rock solid aside from the blade moving with the lockbar ever so slightly when heavy downward force is applied.
 
vvk - Thanks for posting this. I've got a "young" Manix that I'm noticing the same thing on... slight up/down movement when the lock is engaged. It doesn't feel unsafe. It is just irritating to feel that little "click" whenever pressure is applied for the first time after the blade is opened.

It's nice to know it's not just me. I'll check the associated link above as well.

PM
 
Hey VVK! I just went out the garage and dug out my torx bits. Tighten the lock pivot screw with a T9 and virtually all of that play disappears.

It's the lock pivot screw, not the blade pivot screw. Good luck!
 
That slight movement throws people sometimes on lock backs. Most all of them I work on have some even if slight. It isn't just Spydercos that this is the case on either. My Buck 560 as well as some of my Gerbers, and some of my Cold Steel folders all have it also.

Nothing to worry about. If it is less than 1mm up or down its within acceptable tolerances. It doesn't mean you can't trust the lock or that anything is wrong with it. A little vertical or horizontal movement isn't going to make it any less usable or less tough than one with no movement at all. In fact there is some evidence that the ones that move a little actually take more to defeat them than the rock solid ones based on tests I've read about.

STR
 
Also, both the Manix and the Chinook lock bars travel so much farther than any other lock back I've had apart that even if you did depress the lock bar slightly while white knuckling it the blade would still have more lock engaged into it than most knives have to begin with. I have not heard of too many reports of problems with either of those MBC rated locks. The ones that were legit problems were taken care of ASAP by Spyderco. These are two of the strongest lock backs ever produced by a knife company. I know they are certainly two of the most impressive that I've had apart to examine when I rebuilt them for forum members.

For what its worth, the two companies that I think make the most consistant reliable secure and strong locks are Spyderco and Cold Steel. You can say a lot about Cold Steel that is less than honorable but they do sell a very good lock back in their Voyager and Vaquero folders as well as the Gunsite folder and others made in Japan for them to their specs. I've had these knives (both the Manix, Chinook and the Cold Steel models) apart on more than one occasion to replace the handles. They are tough folders with great locks, even the ones that move a little. Here is a pic for you of a Manix. Just look at all that lock and how well it seats compared to another expensive model folder you can buy for about the same price. By the way, that Manix knife pictured had a slight bit of movement in it also and the knife below it did not have any movement at all in it. Trust me the one that moved a little is still light years ahead of the one that didn't.


STR
 
Paddling_man said:
Hey VVK! I just went out the garage and dug out my torx bits. Tighten the lock pivot screw with a T9 and virtually all of that play disappears.

It's the lock pivot screw, not the blade pivot screw. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Hi Paddling_man!
Thanks you for the suggestion. Where I can buy T9?
 
vvk said:
Hi Paddling_man!
Thanks you for the suggestion. Where I can buy T9?
Click to expand...
There is a great little torx set at Home Depot that has all the torx drivers you would need, and bits store in the handle. It sells for about $6 so buy two, one for each side of the knife.

Check out STR's picture of the Manix lock in action...it is impressive indeed.;)
 
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