Is this really what is to be expected out of a super cqc-8

Chisel grinds are cake to sharpen. Check out Emersons site for a couple ways. Swipe the edge till you can feel a burr on the other side with your fingernail. Swipe that side couple times to knock off the burr, strop, and you're good.
 
I'm not exactly sure what you mean with your #1. Are the liner and scale flush with one-another?
 
Lycosa said:
Some peeps get this^ and some simply never get it.
rolf
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Laughing because this thread is so funny...and typical. My pet peeve about Emersons is that word never gets out about needing break-in and tweaks.

INFK -- I agree with everyone here...an Emerson is a different animal and he's not experiencing anything unusual for first-time Emerson owners. You DO have to break them in...and occasionally tweak them a bit.

Once he's carried and used it for a while...and opened it 500-1000 times, he may become confident enough to tweak it a bit, loosening/tightening the screws a little, adjusting the pivot screw, etc....he'll find it better and better in feel and use. Time and use will solve this .

They're good, tough knives and he needs to just stick with it...let it bloom, ya know?

EDIT: And hopefully he hasn't screwed it up by trying to over-lube it. I don't lube Emersons. They aren't the best 'flick knife.'
They're built to use for a long time.
 
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Looks like the norm to me... all good. That is a great knife and it's ready for action. :thumbup:
 
i hate to dis-agree but i love to flick my a-100. had it for a few years though:D. they are really tweakable and pretty easily at that. the chisel grind ,to me, is similar to the way some carving chisels are ground-anywhere from a 6 to 10 degree back bevel. that may be why i like them even when (laugh) i'm doing finer woodworking. the grind just feels right, normal relative to certain other tools i'm using.
 
I.N.F.K said:
He says that he'll carry it for a few days to see if the lock loosens. I'll probably even out the scales if he so desires. The edge isn't a big deal either as he can just sharpen to how he wants.
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Nother thing quick.

Titanium galls to other metals. Its a one of the biggest reasons it was chosen for linerlocks. Those locks are meant to be sticky by nature. I personally like mine to stick. Added peace of mind. Just something to consider.

These knives can be an acquired taste to anyone used to the conventions.
I was madly disappointed in mine at first, too. And kinda spiteful towards all those Emerson fans "making excuses" for the problems and quirks, and telling me to read the first time owners sticky, and break the knives in, and all that jazz.

But then it sank in and i truly realized that these are a totally different bird. And so are the fans. Who, incidentally, are a great group of peeps and helped me change my attitude full circle.

You truly do have to "get it."

Im glad i get it now. Hope your pops ends up the same.
 
I have never owned or used or even held an Emerson. I have been thinking about one cause I like chisel grind and 100% USA made. That said, for approx $300 the fit and finish from those pics is a bit disappointing. If a person can afford 3 bills a little more gets a sebenza. A $60 USA kershaw typically has better quality finish look. I would have to guess almost half the cost is essentially brand name.
 
DanH45 said:
I have never owned or used or even held an Emerson. I have been thinking about one cause I like chisel grind and 100% USA made. That said, for approx $300 the fit and finish from those pics is a bit disappointing. If a person can afford 3 bills a little more gets a sebenza. A $60 USA kershaw typically has better quality finish look. I would have to guess almost half the cost is essentially brand name.
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If you are seriously considering an Emerson, I would suggest picking one up off the Exchange right here on BladeForums. You can find used to lightly used (even some almost brand new) from about $150-200 and sometimes even close to $100. Pictures say 1000 words but you will not know if an Emerson is worth it or even right for you until you hold and use one.

I have a Sebenza, a budget Kershaw (have had more), and Emersons. Each are unique from one another and fit their role in my collection.
 
When my first Emerson I purchased from Emerson in Harbor City, CA was NEW, I put a coat of FROG LUBE on the blade, clip, & moving parts. Found a wood toothpick did the trick getting the Froglube into the small spaces. Than I work the knife open & closed to full lock up position about 100 times while watching TV. Knife action became very smooth.

The pocket I carry my Emerson in has two set of keys in it so the knife live all day with my keys that for the most part never leave my pocket. It show some sign of kissing the keys ocassianally. But it is a tool, and tools have useage marks. No big deal.
 
I think the point is if paying a premium price for a (hand) tool one should expect to not have to tweak, mod, reengineer, depot maintain, rebuild, whatever before use.
 
cevtv said:
Until you hold, or use one, you'll never know.
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I understand that sentiment; I didn't know I'd like my kershaw so much more than a sebenza until I held one... But from the posted pics, I'd expect better fit and finish from the stated price point.
 
My regiment with FROG LUBE is a for new, and as need during useage. Part of the protection Frog LUBE give is some anti rust properties. If I bought a inexpensive wal-mart knife, or some fancy safe queen knife I would only bring out to impress my yuppie friends over good brandy, and expensive cigar. I would still use From Luge for its anti rust properties.

BTW I have no yuppie friends to impress, as those kind of friend are really not friends.

But do enjoy good booze, the kind you drink straight, and never pour over ice or mix with water. A criminal act IMHO. Yes I do enjoy a good cigar now and then.

Funny thing is if I purchase any firearm be it new, or second had I have learned to take it down, clean it, lube it, and it should work properly after that. That is not tikering with it, working it over, or customizing it. That to me is just common sense as most firearm after they leave the factory site somer place before they are sold, dust gathers, lube or oil dries out, so it is just my regiment.
 
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I only use WD-40 to flush junk out and then use compressed air. Never needed lube with them, plus I feel lube just attracts crud. My CQC-8 is as smooth as glass and the lock is flawless.

But, yeah...Emersons need to be broken in. Just the way they are made. And yes the fit and finish could be better, but the ones I have owned have always been 100% serviceable. They have a human made feeling to them, which I appreciate.
 
Screwdriver said:
I only use WD-40 to flush junk out and then use compressed air. Never needed lube with them, plus I feel lube just attracts crud. My CQC-8 is as smooth as glass and the lock is flawless.

But, yeah...Emersons need to be broken in. Just the way they are made. And yes the fit and finish could be better, but the ones I have owned have always been 100% serviceable. They have a human made feeling to them, which I appreciate.
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Honeslty WD is a horrible lubricant because the "wd" stands for water displacer, and if you have moisture in the inner working of a knife, firearm, or in the case of black powder firearms. The wd set on top of the moisture, or black powder residue. Than you can get rust.

There are many good lubricants from just olive oil, clp, 3-1 oil or frog lube just to name a few that will penetrate and lude the metal with a light coat of oil. Some of the better lube have ptfe aka teflon in that that work great.

Threw out my WD-40 years ago, and don't want any part of that after a very good friend use it to lub a muzzleloading rifle barrel, and the stuff left a coat of runt behind.
 
Akapennypincher said:
Honeslty WD is a horrible lubricant because the "wd" stands for water displacer, and if you have moisture in the inner working of a knife, firearm, or in the case of black powder firearms. The wd set on top of the moisture, or black powder residue. Than you can get rust.

There are many good lubricants from just olive oil, clp, 3-1 oil or frog lube just to name a few that will penetrate and lude the metal with a light coat of oil. Some of the better lube have ptfe aka teflon in that that work great.

Threw out my WD-40 years ago, and don't want any part of that after a very good friend use it to lub a muzzleloading rifle barrel, and the stuff left a coat of runt behind.
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Please re read my post. I only use WD-40 to flush out my knives and then blow out any excess. I do not use lubes on my Emersons. They do not need it.

I do what Emerson suggests....figure he knows his knives better then anyone.

http://emersonknives.com/ek_faq/how-do-i-clean-the-knife
 
Screwdriver said:
Please re read my post. I only use WD-40 to flush out my knives and then blow out any excess. I do not use lubes on my Emersons. They do not need it.

I do what Emerson suggests....figure he knows his knives better then anyone.

http://emersonknives.com/ek_faq/how-do-i-clean-the-knife
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I am just not a WD-40 fan, and it is a very old product. Honesly they are some many surper duper lubes on the make today it is hard to choose a best one. I ever once in a while get a sample of some new lube product at a gun show, or prepper show.

So I have what might be considered a life time supply. I bought FrogLube a few year back and find it one of the better products. I purchuse a small jar for like 9 or 10 bucks, and it is still 3/4th. full.
 
Akapennypincher said:
I am just not a WD-40 fan, and it is a very old product. Honesly they are some many surper duper lubes on the make today it is hard to choose a best one. I ever once in a while get a sample of some new lube product at a gun show, or prepper show.

So I have what might be considered a life time supply. I bought FrogLube a few year back and find it one of the better products. I purchuse a small jar for like 9 or 10 bucks, and it is still 3/4th. full.
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I do not use lube on my knives...IMHO, WD-40 is a great product if you know how to use it. Frog Lube is nothing special.....I have used it and find zero wear or function difference compared to CLP. I have been shooting firearms and muzzleloading since the 1970's. I have a Colt AR from the early 1980 that I have only used Rem Oil, then CLP and it shows zero difference in wear or functionality from a friends AR that that he obsesses on oil with.

BTW, as I stated...I do not use oil on my Emersons.....they do not need it. Nylatron is self lubing and when broken in, is butter smooth.
 
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