Is this the Highest Level of Polish You Can Get on Stabilized Wood Scales?

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No, it doesnt look like polyurethane.
Thank you. I'm sorry my post didn't meet your expectations.
I'm sure you'll be a worthwhile contributor here. You have a wonderful attitude and take advice well.
 
Here is the second knife that I tru oiled. I believe it has 6 or 7 coats of tru oil on it. Pics are before buffing, as the last coat of tru oil was only put on about 2 hours ago. I followed the same process I was led to on the first knife here (minus the wet sanding with tru oil). Others did not recommend wet sanding with tru oil and still achieve great, quick results.

With this knife:
I sanded to 400 grit.
Then added normal super glue (not gel) to the handle. I did not use a debonder.
Stepped up in grits from there to 2000 grit.
Applied 7 thin coats of tru oil and wiped then off immediately after application.
Let dry for two hours in a dry area.
Lightly sanded with 0000 steel wool.
and applied the rest of the tru oil coats.
I will wait 2 or 3 days and then lightly buff with jewelers rouge and then paste wax.
I expect the same results as the bowie / clip point knife above.
I will also probably re buff more aggressively after a month or so.


So again, thanks for all the help. Any clarification on other causes of gummy black tru oil when wet sanding would be nice to know. Purple sand paper also caused the black goo. I would like to try this again, if it can improve my results or efficiency.

At this point, I am able to go from raw bar stock, to a finished product in about 24 hours or so using my beat up craftsman 1 x42 and working in an apartment. I would still welcome anything that can make this process more efficient.

NOTE: This is before buffing.
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Bill DeShivs said:
No, it doesnt look like polyurethane.
Thank you. I'm sorry my post didn't meet your expectations.
I'm sure you'll be a worthwhile contributor here. You have a wonderful attitude and take advice well.
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Yeah your posts aren't meeting my expectations or probably anyone else's. They are pretty useless (non value added). All I have learned about making knives has pretty much been learned through here. So I would have to say that I take advice well. I don't take all of it though. Everyone has a different process that they use. Heck there are probably ten difference processes for tru oiling called out in this thread. They obviously can't all be the best. So, I of course don't blindly accept all recommendations and that shouldn't bother you.
 
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Since nobody else will tell you what the problem with discoloring was, and since you continue to foolishly think it was Nick's method, I'm going to tell you, it was your sand paper. Dark colored papers will stain wood, especially when wet sanding. Especially the ones you mentioned.


Believe it or don't, I care not.
 
javand said:
Since nobody else will tell you what the problem with discoloring was, and since you continue to foolishly think it was Nick's method, I'm going to tell you, it was your sand paper. Dark colored papers will stain wood, especially when wet sanding. Especially the ones you mentioned.


Believe it or don't, I care not.
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Light purple sand paper will do it too??? Ok. So I guess what ever color the sand paper is, I can expect my wood, at a minimum, to get tinted that color. ..Good to know!!! THANKS! I guess I need to either buy the cheap walmart 3M sand paper or start ordering online and hopefully find a place that tells you the color of the sand paper. Anyone have success with a certain type of sand paper?

Curiously, I sanded a cat scratch out of the green handled knife about an hour ago. It had 6 or 7 coats of tru oil within the last 12 hours and the last coat was only two hours ago. I tested a small area with the purple stuff and it was fine. Then I went up in grits with the gray because that's all I had. I would have expected the tru oil to gum up or smear in the wood and then potentially discolor the wood again. So, I was careful and went slowly. I experienced no gumming, marring, or discoloration?!????
 
What a pitifully smug little man you are!
Here's some more advice for you, even though you don't deserve it.
When WET SANDING, you use WET/DRY sandpaper, not alox or garnet paper. Automotive wet/dry SC sandpaper.
You'd think you would have figured that out on your own.
Yep, you'll do well in life. Being offensive is always a good trait.
Since you seem to be a know it all, smart arsed kinda person, I'm going to use the ignore list for the first time.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
What a pitifully smug little man you are!
Here's some more advice for you, even though you don't deserve it.
When WET SANDING, you use WET/DRY sandpaper, not alox or garnet paper. Automotive wet/dry SC sandpaper.
You'd think you would have figured that out on your own.
Yep, you'll do well in life. Being offensive is always a good trait.
Since you seem to be a know it all, smart arsed kinda person, I'm going to use the ignore list for the first time.
Click to expand...

Both of the sand papers I was using were wet dry sand paper. Name calling is always productive and taken very well by all. ...so thats obviously been reported.
 
We are not going to turn this thread in to a mud slinging contest. Posts will be civil and on topic or the thread will be closed and offending posts dealt with.
 
Thanks.

For the record, I am going to do some tests with scrap wood pieces and different sand papers to see which cause problems of discoloration when wet sanding try oil.
 
Rhynowet sand paper from Supergrit is my favorite. It's red in color and won't stain anything. Be prepared to spend a hundred bucks because it comes in packs of 50
 
You can find Rhynowet in small amounts on Ebay for about $10
 
+1 for Rhynowet. It will last 1:4 for my other abrasive sheets. Picked it up after visiting Burt Foster's shop and seeing it used all over the place.

-Eric
 
Just because I haven't seen anyone else say it, but are you letting the sand paper do the work or are you pressing really firm? I'm new to knives but used to do body work. Learned to sand from 3m. Pressing hard only deteriorates the paper and turns it into the "slurry", no matter if it's wet/dry or any other kind of paper.
 
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