Is this the norm with scotch-brite? Updated pics

hello

This is 100% a belt finish:

2.jpg~original


^220 grit

I like Scotchbrite, but I don't fool with it much anymore. A clean belt finish is pretty straight forward.
Whoa...what?? That looks great. How do you do horizontal grinds on your bevel with out messing up your plunge?
 
I have a 400 and 600 cork belt that I've used before. 2 questions. Do you finish your flats horizontally? You said preloaded cork belts but I'm not sure what I have so , do you load them with compound or not? Thanks for the replies fellas.

I finish my flats horizontal most of the time, although I do go all vertical on some kitchen blades from time to time, especially if the ricasso is narrow compared to the blade, or if the flats are non-existent or close to it.

There are two types of cork, those pre-loaded with their own abrasive, and those that are just cork, and you have to add compound.

I have also heard some that use compound, with the pre-loaded belts, but I don't like the compound period, it kind of kills the whole beauty of the cork for me, which is they get "soft and dusty" when well dressed, and give a nice uniform finish without any burnished/overheated areas.

I've never tried the cork belts, but from what I'm hearing, they are great, and sound right up my alley.

If you're still willing to stick with the SB belt for awhile, I'd kinda ditch the thought of using them in a progression. I think scotchbrites should come after your final regular belt grit. Here's my formula. People may think this is lazy, or too rough etc, but I make working knives. I learned this from a well respected and very talented maker years ago:

60 grit ceramic
180 grit (A100) Gator.
Fine dark green scotchbrite loaded with WD40.

Thats it. Your grinds and flats have to be dead on though, which is why I suggested the Dykem trick.

You are one of the ones I was thinking of when I said some do great work with scotchbrite... they can be terrific if put to proper use, but just like cork belts, they do have limitations.

I personally think you would go bananas over a properly dressed 220g cork.


hello

This is 100% a belt finish:

^220 grit

I like Scotchbrite, but I don't fool with it much anymore. A clean belt finish is pretty straight forward.

If I had unlimited money, I'd probably finish most knives with a brand new J-flex for each bevel. Traditional style abrasives have been around forever for good reason.
 
hello

This is 100% a belt finish:

2.jpg~original


^220 grit

I like Scotchbrite, but I don't fool with it much anymore. A clean belt finish is pretty straight forward.

I was looking around on your website and noticed a platen that had a rounded top. Is this what you use? It's the only way I can think to do it without messing up the plunge.
 
How do you do horizontal grinds on your bevel with out messing up your plunge?

There's a radius on the top of the platen used to grind the plunge, ground lengthwise with the top wheel removed.

I was looking around on your website and noticed a platen that had a rounded top. Is this what you use? It's the only way I can think to do it without messing up the plunge.

I have a website? Seriously. I know Jo was talking about doing one but I didn't think she had. i kant internet good... :(

I used to make an end radius flat platen for lengthwise grind.
 
I just put your name in the "Googler" and found a Facebook page. I wonder if I could radius a glass platen? I'm gonna get a good platen whenever I get around to building another grinder. Mine will only accept a 6 inch platen without a longer belt.
There's a radius on the top of the platen used to grind the plunge, ground lengthwise with the top wheel removed.



I have a website? Seriously. I know Jo was talking about doing one but I didn't think she had. i kant internet good... :(

I used to make an end radius flat platen for lengthwise grind.
 
I have also heard some that use compound, with the pre-loaded belts, but I don't like the compound period, it kind of kills the whole beauty of the cork for me, which is they get "soft and dusty" when well dressed, and give a nice uniform finish without any burnished/overheated areas.

Steve Johnson who pioneered using the cork belt shows how to use the compound on the cork belt. With the compound on the belt you can go up to a mirror finish if wanted without a buffer.

A maker can use a compound loaded belt in a high grit and then spend only a few minutes hand sanding the flats and bevel, if doing hand sanded or rubbed finish.

They are very versatile in the shop. I use mine in place of the buffer quit a bit.
 
Steve Johnson who pioneered using the cork belt shows how to use the compound on the cork belt. With the compound on the belt you can go up to a mirror finish if wanted without a buffer.

A maker can use a compound loaded belt in a high grit and then spend only a few minutes hand sanding the flats and bevel, if doing hand sanded or rubbed finish.

They are very versatile in the shop. I use mine in place of the buffer quit a bit.

I'm not saying that they don't work with compound, just that I find it redundant and even harmful for my needs. I find that compound hinders rather than helps for a lower grit soft brushed satin finish. In that situation you want the abrasive open and dry. If you're in a polishing situation, then compound is just fine, although I still might not use it. If I was going to load my belt with anything for my purposes, it would probably be raw abrasive powder.

Using cork as a substrate has actually been around maybe even before modern customs, it is seen in the optics industry as a soft lap, except usually loaded with diamond dust or diamond bearing silicone grease. I've been using cork laps with various abrasive loads since the mid 90's, but only for the last 1yr+ in knifemaking. I wholeheartedly agree, very versatile, in fact when I found out cork was available in 2x72 I literally didn't even think for a split second before buying.
 
IIRC, he also knocks the tops pf the grit off of the cork belt with the edge of a piece bar stock and then goes with the compound.
Steve Johnson who pioneered using the cork belt shows how to use the compound on the cork belt. With the compound on the belt you can go up to a mirror finish if wanted without a buffer.

A maker can use a compound loaded belt in a high grit and then spend only a few minutes hand sanding the flats and bevel, if doing hand sanded or rubbed finish.

They are very versatile in the shop. I use mine in place of the buffer quit a bit.
 
IIRC, he also knocks the tops pf the grit off of the cork belt with the edge of a piece bar stock and then goes with the compound.


Yes he has you do it for 10 minutes by the clock. What I do that works better is use a round bar for 10 minutes. The round bar does not knock off so much abrasive as a piece of bar stock and it smashed all the hill tops smooth.


Steve is one of the best knifemakers in the Loveless style and it is a real learning experience watching him build a sub hilt fighter in his video using the cork belts.

I have been using the cork belts for several years and with or without compound they give you a lot of flexibility in your grinds. They clean up a plunge so nicely and remove material slower so you can really work an area and it is more forgiving.
 
HallHandmade said:
I'm not saying that they don't work with compound, just that I find it redundant and even harmful for my needs. I find that compound hinders rather than helps for a lower grit soft brushed satin finish. In that situation you want the abrasive open and dry.

That pretty much sums up how I view and use cork belts. No compound for me. I'm after a nice brushed look when I do use them. I've never polished any blade, and likely won't anytime soon. I just don't care for that finish. I have the pre-loaded 400 and 600 grit, but I prefer the 600. 600 grit also happens to be my preferred finish grit for a hand rubbed finish as well. The surface is refined enough to look nice without having too much of mirrored look.


AVigil said:
Yes he has you do it for 10 minutes by the clock. What I do that works better is use a round bar for 10 minutes. The round bar does not knock off so much abrasive as a piece of bar stock and it smashed all the hill tops smooth.

A round bar is how I initially conditioned my belts as well. I do, however, periodically use flat bar to expose fresh abrasive while using the belts though.
 
There's a radius on the top of the platen used to grind the plunge, ground lengthwise with the top wheel removed.



I have a website? Seriously. I know Jo was talking about doing one but I didn't think she had. i kant internet good... :(

I used to make an end radius flat platen for lengthwise grind.

I just put your name in the "Googler" and found a Facebook page. I wonder if I could radius a glass platen? I'm gonna get a good platen whenever I get around to building another grinder. Mine will only accept a 6 inch platen without a longer belt.

I had a look too.

If you wanted to show and tell about the Blade table sign some day, I'd love to see it better know more about how it was done.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...=51ecd944b143b827c2d714847f10ae9e&oe=564AC77D
 
I had a look too.

If you wanted to show and tell about the Blade table sign some day, I'd love to see it better know more about how it was done.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...=51ecd944b143b827c2d714847f10ae9e&oe=564AC77D

11351219_896094657129399_8942856454734935030_n.jpg


First you mill down a bar of aluminum leaving the lettering stand proud, hit it with a rattle can of black Krylon, dust it down a thou with a diamond facemill leaving a beautiful gleaming finish, have a bunch of retarded individuals* walk by and smudge it up real bad with greasy unwashed thumbs, then take a picture and post it on facebook. :D :thumbup:

* no offence to any retarded individuals who post here
 
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