I have tried to stay away from these types of threads, but I am going to make a single insert into this one.
At no time, under any circumstances, should you ever polish on the top of the wheel with it turning away from you. This is just plain dumb, and if the buffer was an industrial size unit, might get you killed. You buff with the wheel turning downward , and buff on the area from 3 o'clock to 5 o'clock. Small bench grinders can be used to buff knives, but they only can support small buffs, and are low powered. To properly polish a blade you need a 10-12" buffing wheel turning at 1000 to 1500 RPM. Slower is often needed for handle buffing to avoid scorching the wood. Guards and work rests on a knife buffer are dangerous.
Never buff a sharp knife! this should be obvious, but there are those who sharpen the knife, or notice a scratch they missed, and take it to the buffer. This is good for hand surgeons, but bad for knife makers. The only time a sharp knife is put to the buffer is to buff off the wire...and there are many safer ways to do that. If you find you have to buff a sharpened knife, dull the edge, after the buffing, re-sharpen it.
You can build a good buffer with an 3/4" arbor shaft and some buffing wheels. Use 3" steel discs to support the sides of the buffs ( this will greatly improve the stiffness of the buff). Drive it with a 1/2 to 3/4 HP motor ,using a multi-pulley on the arbor. Use a pulley on the motor that will make the highest speed 1500 RPM.
Mount this on a stand or base that has the buffs in clear air. Never use a knife buffer on a counter, or with any surface closer than 24" below, above, or behind it. Stand firmly in front of the buffer ( not to one side), with your feet spread apart a bit. This is called a foundation stance, and you have much more control over your hands and arms. Turn on the buffer, and allow it to come up to speed. Apply the buffing compound sparingly, but often. Avoid loading the wheel up ( glued on grits are different). Bring the blade up to the buff in a upward arc, anticipating the grab when the wheels fibers abrade the blade. You want to be working in the 3-5 o'clock area.....never any other place. Apply moderate pressure, remember, buffing is polishing, not grinding ( you should have sanded the blade to a smooth and scratchless finish before buffing.). Avoid heat buildup, you can ruin the temper with careless buffing. Start with a coarser pre-polish ( grey, brown, or green) and then when all is evenly buffed, clean the blade off and go to the other finish buff. Use only fine green, pink, or white on this buff. The position of any edge, be it cutting edge, spine, or other projection, can catch the buff and rip the blade from your hand. Consider this when gripping the knife. Buff any edge with the edge down. Quit as you approach the other edge, and turn the blade around. Buffing longways, from ricasso to tip, works, but requires some practice.
If buffing wood it is best to use buffs that are only used on wood, as the metal oxides will stain the wood. Sand the wood to as fine as you are willing to go before buffing. Buff lightly and quickly, first with no-scratch pink or matchless white, and then with white or a plain buff ( some give the buff a charge of carnuba or other hard wood polish).
This is general and practical advise to everyone, but especially newbies. If you chose to use some less safe method,or have been doing it different for years, and it works well for you,..... fine ( I pray for people like you to be safe). But, please don't post such procedures for novices to read and assume that is how the pros do it.
I buff several hours a day, and have for over thirty years. I have a mishaps from time to time.....almost always because I wasn't doing the procedures I just posted.
Stacy
