It followed me home (Part 2)

[rjdankert]

. . . But the flooring hatchet can not be hung for a left hander. . . .

I have tried to find out if these type of asymmetrical heads were sold with bevels on either side so right or left could be purchased, but no luck. A thread from a couple of months ago got me searching for "flooring hatchet". I found there are a bunch of similar but specialized hatchet types: half, shingling, round poll half, lath, claw, box, barrel, tobacco, rig builders, fruit box, packers, car builders, and produce. Haven't looked into these, so I don't know if they are all single bevel. None I've found so far have left / right options. Just as a note I did come across a GB asymmetrical broad axe that comes in a right or left handed model.

. . . Nice broad axe you have there. . .

Thanks

. . . It may be the camera angle but the bevel looks too steep.

I'm glad you asked. Not knowing anything about the bevels on broad axes and not wanting to mess mine up, I gave it a "lick and a promise". There seems to be some differences of opinion on this subject (what's new?).

Took some more pictures.

Business end:

Edge profile:

The "flat" side:

I have read that some were made curved. The picture doesn't show it all that well, but the curve is very even. Something to do with the chips I think. I've also read that some had a "dished" rather than a flat back. Mine goes from curved at the bit and gradually flattens out as you move the straight edge back (toward the poll).
EDIT: I checked again, the curve does not flatten out as you move the straight edge back.

Thanks for looking,

Bob

 

[rjdankert]

My Fayette R. Plumb hewing hatchet had a removable wedge system for reversing the head for either hand use. I actually destroyed it, before I knew what it was when I rehung the head on the original haft. Live and learn.

I've seen pictures of those. Something tells me that there might be someone in your holler that could create a new handle with a removable wedge system.

Bob

 

[rjdankert]

If it were me I'd take pic next to it just like it were a 12' Marlin. Great score!

Last time I got a picture taken the camera it broke.

Bob

 

[rjdankert]

That is quite a find Bob! I'm goofing around with one right now but it isn't marked nor in good condition.

That looks like terrific piece of old steel you acquired. I'm happy just knowing you have it.

Great photos as well.

Thanks Agent_H, have fun with yours.

Bob

 

[rjdankert]

In case you haven't seen this yet. . .

I had not seen it, thanks.

Bob

 

[marbat]

Nice lady getting rid of stuff at where I worked at today let me bring this home. It will need severe re-profiling as it seems like it was taken to a grinder and a little work but otherwise seems like a nice small axe. The only markings are Made in W Germany and the number 8 on the other side. What do I have?

 

[RICKOFF]

I have a hatchet with the same traces of blue paint, stamping made in W Germany and 1 1/2 on the opposite side.


This is from the intrewebs. Power Master

 

[Steve Tall]

In case it's not too obvious, W. Germany existed for only 41 years, between 1949-1990, so that narrows down its age.

 

[rbeggs]

Well, this is it, what I have managed to pick over the last 5 days. It is not as epic as I was planing on, as I was planning on 22 additional quality axes (which still may work out), but not bad.

Nice haul! What brand of butcher knife is that, and is that an Arkansas stone?

 

[jblyttle]

Nice haul! What brand of butcher knife is that, and is that an Arkansas stone?

It's a Green River, and yes, it is a hard translucent stone. If you are interested let me know.

 

[RICKOFF]

In case it's not too obvious, W. Germany existed for only 41 years, between 1949-1990, so that narrows down its age.

Down in here the lower left hand corner anything that has a stamping from U.S. and Europe is a find. Mostly stuff from the Modern Era.

 

[Square_peg]

Well, this is it, what I have managed to pick over the last 5 days. It is not as epic as I was planing on, as I was planning on 22 additional quality axes (which still may work out), but not bad.

I see a lot of stuff I like there.

 

[garry3]

JB, I prefer your dinning room table as a back drop. Surly a well made table could support that modest pick?
Incredible hall!

 

[jblyttle]

JB, I prefer your dinning room table as a back drop. Surly a well made table could support that modest pick?
Incredible hall!

OK, time to lift up the skirt. This table was given to my grandparents as a wedding gift sometime in the early 1930's I would guess, and the story is that it was not a new table at that time. It is a beautiful and solid, but I draw the line at anvils! That one is only 85lbs and the table would have no problem with it, but I just won't do it.

 

[Old Axeman]

rjdankert-Bob, lets talk some more about your broadaxe. Can you show us a picture of the "flat" side using the straight edge from poll to bit? Lay the straight edge on it to show an even gap at both poll and bit. Put the two straight edge pictures (poll to bit and toe to heel) together for us. This is just what I was talking about in a thread a while ago with Square _Peg. From what you are telling me your broad axe has perfect geometry to hew with. The better quality Penn. and New Orleans pattern broad axes had this geometry. It is hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like you are almost there with the bevel. Maybe lay the bevel back a hair more and make sure the bevel is only one angle (read that to mean no micro bevel) and perfectly flat in profile. And no back bevel on the "flat" side. Lap the "flat" side for 1/2-1" back, while keeping the very slight factory arc from toe to heel and from bit to poll. If the handle is offset enough and is 20-24" long, you now will have one hell of a hewing machine!

 

[Square_peg]

Thanks for the specifics, Bernie.

 

[rjdankert]

rjdankert-Bob, lets talk some more about your broadaxe. Can you show us a picture of the "flat" side using the straight edge from poll to bit? Lay the straight edge on it to show an even gap at both poll and bit. Put the two straight edge pictures (poll to bit and toe to heel) together for us. . .

Like this?

In my earlier post (#2041) I said the curve flattened out as I moved the straight edge back. When I was fooling around with these pictures I rechecked that and that is not the case. The curve continues back to the eye. I have edited that post.

Bob

 

[msbc]

Double tap

 

[msbc]

messed up again.

 

[Old Axeman]

That is exactly what a broad axe should look like, In my opinion (and my grandfather's opinion). I know that Doug Reed, a life long professional broad axe hewer, agrees also. Thanks for the great pictures Bob.