It followed me home (Part 2)

[jblyttle]

Correction- it's actually a 5lb head. That has to be uncommon.

 

[aikonen]

Today was a good day. Found a couple of axe heads, a drawknife, some plane irons, and a few handles, for only 20$

Wetterlings maul

Hultafors hatchet

Eskilstuna Jernbolag plane steel

Drawknife from Erik Anton Berg

 

[SC T100]

Correction- it's actually a 5lb head. That has to be uncommon.

I've got a CT 5-lb Dayton, but I put it on a 36" handle. I'm surprised a big ol' 5er is on a 28-inch handle.

 

[garry3]

Today was a good day. Found a couple of axe heads, a drawknife, some plane irons, and a few handles, for only 20$

Wetterlings maul

Hultafors hatchet

Eskilstuna Jernbolag plane steel

Drawknife from Erik Anton Berg

Good looking score.
A mortis axe?
What kind of wood are the those handles made of?

 

[garry3]

Yes, that's it. Any idea on date range?

No date found on the head unfortunately. I think there was one listed in the first few pages of this thread, I will see if it had a date.


This followed me home. Is this a Warren also? 2 1/2lbs as marked.

Its a fellers wedge.

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I guess it could be a gals wedge.

 

[300Six]

Aikonen: You earlier mentioned being unfamiliar with Beech wood. Very likely the two hatchet handles in your picture are Beech. Beech has tiny little freckles (tiny dark spots) all through it. Beech is treated as 'garbage wood' in n. America but in Europe has 1000s of uses, from clothes pins, broom heads, knife/chisel handles, gun stocks, cutting boards etc etc. It's lovely hard tough stuff but is shunned over here because it won't kiln dry without 'checking' (cracking and splitting).

 

[aikonen]

Aikonen: You earlier mentioned being unfamiliar with Beech wood. Very likely the two hatchet handles in your picture are Beech. Beech has tiny little freckles (tiny dark spots) all through it. Beech is treated as 'garbage wood' in n. America but in Europe has 1000s of uses, from clothes pins, broom heads, knife/chisel handles, gun stocks, cutting boards etc etc. It's lovely hard tough stuff but is shunned over here because it won't kiln dry without 'checking' (cracking and splitting).

Yes indeed I don't know much about Beech, however, the guy that sold me the handles told me they were made from Birch. Either way I'm sure they will be fine for such small axe/hammer heads. Have you ever worked with Beech? How is it?

Good looking score.
A mortis axe?
What kind of wood are the those handles made of?

Thank you Garry. Are you thinking about the big head? It's a splitting maul, the poll has shattered.
Three are hickory, the other two is Birch or Beech. I can't really tell because I have never seen a piece of Beech.

I just got this from the mailman, a Wetterlings Hickory carpenter handle,

 

[Square_peg]

Today was a good day. Found a couple of axe heads, a drawknife, some plane irons, and a few handles, for only 20$

Somebody put a replacement handle for that drawknife. The handle on the left looks original. Have a look at the ferrule on the one at the right. When I turn handles for drawknives or files I'll use a small length of pipe as a ferrule. I'll flair the end of the pipe a little on the horn of the anvil to make it slide on easer. Then I'll dimple the ferrule in two places with a center punch to help it stay on. If it still wants to come off I'll put a tiny brad nail in it.

What does the ferrule on yours look like? Is it home made? Is it dimpled or brad nailed? Or is it just a factory made file handle that someone has used on a drawknife?

 

[aikonen]

Somebody put a replacement handle for that drawknife. The handle on the left looks original. Have a look at the ferrule on the one at the right. When I turn handles for drawknives or files I'll use a small length of pipe as a ferrule. I'll flair the end of the pipe a little on the horn of the anvil to make it slide on easer. Then I'll dimple the ferrule in two places with a center punch to help it stay on. If it still wants to come off I'll put a tiny brad nail in it.

What does the ferrule on yours look like? Is it home made? Is it dimpled or brad nailed? Or is it just a factory made file handle that someone has used on a drawknife?

Yeah, I need to make a new handle for it. I'll probably change both of them when I do. It is the original handle and the ferrule is dimpled!

 

[Agent_H]

These are from the last week and 1/2 or so. Some interesting gear. I'd wanted a wooden mallet for wedging handles. Last week I drove to a place referred to as a "trading post". Came home with this mallet. Used it to hang two double bits. Definitely takes a different touch than the rubber mallet I have been using. This one is a dead blow as opposed to chisel style? Been wanting a farriers rasp for a while for wood shaping. Went to visit the folks on the coast and poked around some and found two log-dog/rafting dogs. The third is one from the last trip there.

There was a hole-in-the wall antique place off the highway that was closed but had cars in the lot. The owner walked around the building and greeted me. I kind of pushed for him to let me in. This place is never open. Anyway, I found this farriers rasp. The handle is pretty interesting and is stamped CG HOAG. I believe it says Zenith trade on the rasp itself it but is partially covered by the handle. The collar looks like it was done later. Heavy duty feeling. 13" exposed file with a tad more plus the ferrule.

We got off the road last night and I decided to clean it up with a wire wheel in my drill. It was completely caked/dried with hoof. Should have thought a bit more about a mask. The garage and my clothes smell of horse... The couple of beers I had doing it started to taste like barn. Note to self, "wear a mask when you send hoof powder/rust into the air..."
Needed a reminder I guess lol.


At a local place I picked up a swamping pattern TT Kelly Works and this no-name, once red, ridged eye boys axe. Doesn't look mistreated. Been finding more of these around here. Seem like solid tools actually.

I took my daughter for a drive up the mountain and came across an old Warwood 3 grub hoe head. Don't know much about Warwood other than they have been around for a while and are an American company. The handle I picked up a few weeks ago at a building recycling place. Thought it might come in handy. Looks like a good match. The handle is Seneca Hickory. Assume it's older as well.

While at the coast I came across this hewing axe. I chatted the owner some before looking around so I think I got a great price on it from even low bids on the "site" we all know. It is actually sharp and very secure on the handle. Some worm holes and wear from right-handed use. Overall, a score.

Here are the three tools together for size:

They all have a similar patina going on.

 

[garry3]

Nice stuff JB. The boys axe looks like a Woodslasher (you already knew that). The split fawns foot can be repaired by opening up the break, cleaning with alcohol or other fast drying cleaner like acetone. Filling it with a good glue and clamping or rapping with rubber, old inner tube works good. A good glue job will not fail, it will be much stronger than the wood.

 

[DarthTaco123]

Not a terrible day today, picked up a few axes and a few ball pein hammers for the forge. One of the axes was a double bit with a warped eye (looks like it was used as a lever) that should be easily fixed with a RR spike, a little heat, and patience. Picked up a 3 1/4 axe that looks like a Maine wedge pattern, but the marks are a bit obscure with the paint (you can see em in the picture). Not sure if those are makers marks or not, they seem a bit too deep in comparison to the weight stamp. Might find a way to strip the paint off and see what I have to work with underneath because besides the toe being a little worn (ground on) it's in otherwise nice shape. The pick of the day was for sure a Snow and Nealley (made in Bangor) jersey pattern for 15 dollars with a good handle. The ball peins are two 24 oz True Temper's, and a 32 oz (older) no name hardware store hammer. More pictures coming.

Gonna try working on the double bit with a torch and drift if no marks show up in it's vinegar bath. Never hung a DB before so it should go interestingly. Just oiled up the S&N's handle and it's original to the axe or someone rehung it with a S&N handle, but it's got the old style stamp (or so I think). Pics of that tomorrow.

 

[Agent_H]

Nice stuff JB. The boys axe looks like a Woodslasher (you already knew that). The split fawns foot can be repaired by opening up the break, cleaning with alcohol or other fast drying cleaner like acetone. Filling it with a good glue and clamping or rapping with rubber, old inner tube works good. A good glue job will not fail, it will be much stronger than the wood.

Not JB this time but I was channeling him as best I could

I will follow your advice on the handle repair - seems solid otherwise.

 

[Square_peg]

...... and this no-name, once red, ridged eye boys axe. Doesn't look mistreated. Been finding more of these around here. Seem like solid tools actually.

Most likely a Woodslasher.

 

[Joe L. Bachs]

A couple of my recent finds. Top to bottom a Hartwell Bros. Grey Gorge cedar axe on a nice thin 24" haft, I'm really excited about this because I've been hunting for a cedar axe for a few years now and from what I've read the Hartwell cedar axes were the original cedar pattern and was made for them by Warren. 2nd one down is a really clean 18" camp axe with original paint. The haft is stamped "Pioneer - Hartwell Hickory" and the head is stamped 2 1/2 , I think this one maybe made by Walters during the time they produced axes for Hartwell Bros. Next one is a W.M. Beatty lugged hatchet on the original handle. It has the most comfortable straight handle I've ever used on a hatchet. And all the way on the bottom is a little child's hatchet, 9 1/2" long and has a very nicely profiled blade. No stamp, but I've had my eye out for one of these minis for quite a while as well.

 

[Agent_H]

Fine axes there Joe. I do especially like that cedar pattern you came upon. Good looking handles as well.

 

[quinton]

I love those older straight tapered hafts. They really are comfortable to use.

 

[garry3]

Great stuff Joe, all on nice vintage hafts also!

 

[jblyttle]

A couple of my recent finds. Top to bottom a Hartwell Bros. Grey Gorge cedar axe on a nice thin 24" haft, I'm really excited about this because I've been hunting for a cedar axe for a few years now and from what I've read the Hartwell cedar axes were the original cedar pattern and was made for them by Warren. 2nd one down is a really clean 18" camp axe with original paint. The haft is stamped "Pioneer - Hartwell Hickory" and the head is stamped 2 1/2 , I think this one maybe made by Walters during the time they produced axes for Hartwell Bros. Next one is a W.M. Beatty lugged hatchet on the original handle. It has the most comfortable straight handle I've ever used on a hatchet. And all the way on the bottom is a little child's hatchet, 9 1/2" long and has a very nicely profiled blade. No stamp, but I've had my eye out for one of these minis for quite a while as well.

I have found a couple of Warren hatchets that had a very similar head shape (just half the size) so you are probably correct. All nice, I like the second one specially.

 

[jblyttle]

It was a great day. I won't mention prices as I don't want anyone to hurt themselves when their head hits the keyboard.

We have:

A Chas Parker 974 vise
A brushhook/axe hybrid that I think is handmade, maybe unique
A Wagner small cast iron pan
A True Temper red Dayton head
an old style carpenter axe head
A brass No 52 spokeshave
2 cool clamp on table vises (very cool- no exposed screw)
a 10" drawknife
a 8" drawknife
a 7" drawknife
a carpenter hatchet
an old tomahawk
a US hatchet (has foam insulation on it)
a crosspeen hammer
an 8lb and a 10 sledge
A SAW Wetterlings double bit
A Craftsman boy's axe
TWO True Temper Kelly Works Connecticut axes
a Hudson bay 1.75lb hatchet
A full Dayton axe marked "PANTHER"
and an all original pristine Plumb BSA rafting hatchet