It Survived! A resurrected 4.1... Pics of the project.

I agree with everybody else, good work on that knife.
A 1 x 30 can be really useful, when the blades are ugly.


Regards
Mikael
 
JustinFournier said:
I will say my older GSOs were not crazy sharp, none of my BRKTs have come shaving sharp, but my new 5.1 is easily shaving sharp.
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That is the difference between previously having employees doing the sharpening versus me now personally sharpening every edge that leaves our shop. We might be a little slower as a result but it is more important to me that everything leaving the shop be top notch.

Riz, great job on cleaning up that mangled edge.
 
SURVIVE! said:
That is the difference between previously having employees doing the sharpening versus me now personally sharpening every edge that leaves our shop. We might be a little slower as a result but it is more important to me that everything leaving the shop be top notch.
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Which I applaud your for. After seeing all the improvements you have made to the new models, I have I dunno 5 on preorder?
 
Silver Needle said:
Skip to 4:24 to see the explanation of this sacrilege.

EDIT: Did he really say his mod brought it "on par" with the sharpness of a Bark River? Child, please.....
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I guarantee my 4.1 is sharper than this knife was or any barkie as it comes..while maintaining its appearance lol... Even to convex it the amount of steel lost was completely unnecessary.
 
I watched about every Survive knife video I could watch before mine came. I remember watching that guy. He watched Virtuovice convexing his knives and he had videos trying to show people how to do the same. I remember thinking he must be crazy to try and convex that knife. Good job on fixing it.
I tried to convex a couple of knives. I have no clue what im doing.
 
Flsurfer said:
I watched about every Survive knife video I could watch before mine came. I remember watching that guy. He watched Virtuovice convexing his knives and he had videos trying to show people how to do the same. I remember thinking he must be crazy to try and convex that knife. Good job on fixing it.
I tried to convex a couple of knives. I have no clue what im doing.
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I never understood as to how so many people were into "convexing" their edges by hand on a straight honing surface unless that term is just being thrown around semantically! If I trust anyone on YT, it'd be Virtuovice to know what he's talking about as he's both an old hand at this with many tools at his disposal, plus he is a humble fella who does not cliam to know it all.

I hate the darn convex edge on my Fallkniven F1 because no matter what, I can't get it to be truly razor sharp which is incidentally how it came right out of the box, i.e, NOT RAZOR SHARP! I have never had that issue with both A1 and S1 which I have owned in the past, just the darn F1 with the same VG10. I use DMT Fine & Super Fine grits, I have a DC4 and green strop from Knife Plus, but the F1 is still a fat piggy!
 
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Casinostocks said:
... no matter what, I can't get it to be truly razor sharp which is incidentally how it came right out of the box, i.e, NOT RAZOR SHARP! I have never had that issue with both A1 and S1 which I have owned in the past, just the darn F1 with the same VG10. I use DMT Fine & Super Fine grits, I have a DC4 and green strop from Knife Plus, but the F1 is still a fat piggy!
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Green is not fine enough. I freehand strop on BRKT white, then 0.5 micron CBN. Sometimes just CBN. You will get some level of mirror polish, and way sharper than you need. Personally I do not consider green to be a finished edge for my taste. I have both Green and Black but never use them. Generally I touch up on 0.5 micron CBN. According to some testing, the BRKT 0.5 is closer to 1 micron. I also have a gen 2 wicked edge pro but not for my convex.
 
Casinostocks said:
I never understood as to how so many people were into "convexing" their edges by hand on a straight honing surface unless that term is just being thrown around semantically! If I trust anyone on YT, it'd be Virtuovice to know what he's talking about as he's both an old hand at this with many tools at his disposal, plus he is a humble fella who does not cliam to know it all.

I hate the darn convex edge on my Fallkniven F1 because no matter what, I can't get it to be truly razor sharp which is incidentally how it came right out of the box, i.e, NOT RAZOR SHARP! I have never had that issue with both A1 and S1 which I have owned in the past, just the darn F1 with the same VG10. I use DMT Fine & Super Fine grits, I have a DC4 and green strop from Knife Plus, but the F1 is still a fat piggy!
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I do all convex knives on a belt sander...it'll get em stupid sharp
 
Bobby3326 said:
I do all convex knives on a belt sander...it'll get em stupid sharp
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Belt sanding is perfectly understood because it adapts to the convex shape. It's the claims of convexing an edge on a straight and inflexible edge which I can't wrap my head around. My best technique for stropping a true convex edge has always been using the back of my leather belt is flexible to follow the contours of the convex edge, using black and white compounds. That was just easier with the other mentioned models than the F1 for some reason.
 
Casinostocks said:
Belt sanding is perfectly understood because it adapts to the convex shape. It's the claims of convexing an edge on a straight and inflexible edge which I can't wrap my head around. My best technique for stropping a true convex edge has always been using the back of my leather belt is flexible to follow the contours of the convex edge, using black and white compounds. That was just easier with the other mentioned models than the F1 for some reason.
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Likely needs thinned out at the edge...the idea of doing it on a flat surface is you grind at different angles creating a convexish edge...free hand sharpening naturally creates a convex due to the variance in angle due to human error...so it's totally feasible but when done to the extent of this one was just absurd and the guy clearly didn't really know what he was doing...there was no need to remove a ¼"of steel off the edge to convex it.
 
Casinostocks said:
Belt sanding is perfectly understood because it adapts to the convex shape. It's the claims of convexing an edge on a straight and inflexible edge which I can't wrap my head around. My best technique for stropping a true convex edge has always been using the back of my leather belt is flexible to follow the contours of the convex edge, using black and white compounds. That was just easier with the other mentioned models than the F1 for some reason.
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I have no personal experience but I've heard a lot of people describe how they use sandpaper on a mouse pad.
 
Bobby: I agree because F1 is a short and stubby blade with a funny belly unlike the leaner and sleeker bigger brothers in S1 and A1.

Silver: mouse pad has a bit of a give in it as it is spongier and that is why people use it with a sand paper. I just hate scratching up a shiny blade :grumpy:
 
I have two that are convex from Bark River. They slice through paper pretty good but dont seem to shave.
 
Flsurfer said:
I have two that are convex from Bark River. They slice through paper pretty good but dont seem to shave.
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It basically boils down to the age old debate of a fine cutting edge versus truly razor sharp literally great for shaving. I guess that the latter is very cool when a razor sharp blade can slice through anything, even a piece of toilet paper, but how long will that edge last if whittling wood, gutting fish or even dressing your feral hogs? ;)

Sometimes I think that I get too carried away with honing my edges. From what I have received from Guy so far, I guess that i will just trust him to the edge of whatever GSO I order and not muck around with his tools. I have never had any Barkies and not planning to get into them either. Fallkniven knives always been kind of hit and miss for me, so I guess that I'll just dump the F1 which has not impressed me at all and stick with GSOs from here on out, whenever I can get 'em!
 
IMO the Barkies are a great deal. I have Gunny hunters in S35VN and Elmax, and a rampless Bravo 1 in S35VN. They work excellent at what they are. They are much different in approach than the GSO. What I prefer about the GSO is the finish, the level of perfection Guy strives for. Barkies are all hand made to a lower attention to detail and you get various little reminders of that around them. They are also common in leather sheath and wood handle which is also more organic. The convex grind holds its edge longer in theory. Also, I would say at this point the same can be said about CRK. Guy has surpassed thier finish quality.

The GSO has the option of interchangeable handles that can be disassembled. Guy spends time on every single edge getting it right. But how many knives can Guy do himself? Exponentially less than BRKT puts out. If you are looking for a high quality tool then a BRKT is on the shelf waiting for you. If you want something that passed through Guys hands and has an extremely high level of attention to detail then you must be willing to wait. Personally I think they are comparable in price, comparable in function, and both have strengths and weaknesses.

I love them both but at the end of the day I have an extremely high attention to detail so I prefer to wait a year and have a perfectly finished knife. That is why I have zero interest in seconds.

I also have zero interest in taking a GSO and trying to turn it into a convex barkie and am pretty sure I am not alone here.
 
Casinostocks said:
It basically boils down to the age old debate of a fine cutting edge versus truly razor sharp literally great for shaving. I guess that the latter is very cool when a razor sharp blade can slice through anything, even a piece of toilet paper, but how long will that edge last if whittling wood, gutting fish or even dressing your feral hogs? ;)

Sometimes I think that I get too carried away with honing my edges. From what I have received from Guy so far, I guess that i will just trust him to the edge of whatever GSO I order and not muck around with his tools. I have never had any Barkies and not planning to get into them either. Fallkniven knives always been kind of hit and miss for me, so I guess that I'll just dump the F1 which has not impressed me at all and stick with GSOs from here on out, whenever I can get 'em!
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Depends on the blade..some will take that stupid sharp edge and hold out thru use... Survives 3v is one of em...I took my 4.1 to 18° per side and to a .25 micron level polish...it is still stupid sharp after 2 weeks of use...cardboard, food, whittling ect...
 
JustinFournier said:
IMO the Barkies are a great deal. I have Gunny hunters in S35VN and Elmax, and a rampless Bravo 1 in S35VN. They work excellent at what they are. They are much different in approach than the GSO. What I prefer about the GSO is the finish, the level of perfection Guy strives for. Barkies are all hand made to a lower attention to detail and you get various little reminders of that around them. They are also common in leather sheath and wood handle which is also more organic. The convex grind holds its edge longer in theory. Also, I would say at this point the same can be said about CRK. Guy has surpassed thier finish quality.

The GSO has the option of interchangeable handles that can be disassembled. Guy spends time on every single edge getting it right. But how many knives can Guy do himself? Exponentially less than BRKT puts out. If you are looking for a high quality tool then a BRKT is on the shelf waiting for you. If you want something that passed through Guys hands and has an extremely high level of attention to detail then you must be willing to wait. Personally I think they are comparable in price, comparable in function, and both have strengths and weaknesses.

I love them both but at the end of the day I have an extremely high attention to detail so I prefer to wait a year and have a perfectly finished knife. That is why I have zero interest in seconds.

I also have zero interest in taking a GSO and trying to turn it into a convex barkie and am pretty sure I am not alone here.
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Bark Rivers are nice. I can see the difference in the quality of my 2nds Survive knife and I think its the best knife I own. What I like about the Barkies is stropping them is easier for me than stropping a 20 degree edge. Im almost scared to strop the 20 degree edge because sometimes i make it duller.
 
That means youbare doing one of or any combo of the following... pushing too hard, holdng the angle steeper than you need or using too flexible of strop. My best strop is 1/8 thick leather glued to a wooden board
 
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