It's Finished! Echelon Dyeing and I Need Some Help

S

Squashfan

Joined
Jun 6, 2012
Messages
1,670
It's done!

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The pictures don't do it justice. This wasn't the color I was looking for but I have really grown to like it. It is a deep berry or wine red. Not purple. The blade centering is good, but lockup is early.


Merry Christmas!
With the presents gone and trash cleared I have some spare time. But I do have some questions before I do the deed.
Did you guys clean the grease out of the torsion bar space? And did you remove the pocket clip screw inserts?

Thanks,
Squashfan
 
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Clean the entire scale (Including the grease) To make sure the dye colors evenly. I don't think you need to take the inserts out but I could be wrong.
 
A couple days late but yes, clean the grease out of the scale. As for leaving the inserts in? I don't know how you'd go about getting them out. :D I even left the blade stop pin and the pin at the rear of the knife in mine without problem.
 
I have a blem and the pivot just spins when I tried to adjust it so I just threw it in the dye fully assembled after a thorough wash in dish soap. It worked fine but the lockbar did start to get some corrosion on it. It was really light corrosion and some CLP took it right off. I definitely recommend disassembling the knife as much as possible before putting it in the dye. The inserts come out easily, they're just a press fit, but getting them back in straight might be a problem. I'd recommend leaving them in.
 
Seelow123, OvalmanPA, and RJ80; thanks! If anyone has any other tips, I am all ears (well, actually, eyes).

I am in the middle of a test run on a GI Joe. It's been in there about 5 minute and it is not taking the dye evenly. I did forgot to wash it off before starting, but I did wash it off after about a 1 minute.
 
Make sure to keep the dye hot during the process, boiling the scale in water for a few minutes before putting it in the dye can also help a lot. Lastly, a light color will take a LONG time. To get mine orange, it had to sit in the dye for almost 12 hours. :eek:

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If I recall correctly mine took about 2 hours for royal blue. I used the liquid dye almost full strength. I would have left it longer but I was starting to notice corrosion on the lockbar.
 
The test part is done. It came out a dull, rusty red, but I want it a nice bright red. If I had done the test part in blue it would be some kind of light navy blue. This may have to do with the color of the test part.
I think am going to do a 1 minute bath on the scales themselves to see what color they come out. If the scales are dull should I add more dye to brighten the color?

Thanks for all the help! I am learning a lot and having a TON of fun.
 
Just had an "oh shoot" moment. I pulled the scales out to check the color and they were covered in black spots. I think it was undisolved dye. Fortunately, the spots washed off, and scales are back in the dye.
 
I usually let the water heat up, put in the dye and stir it well with a spoon, Let the solution come to a light boil and put the scales in. I like to stir the scales around while they are in there but I don't know if that's necessary, it's just the way I've always done it. It normally take 5 minutes max for the dye to take evenly.

How much dye are you using and how much water?
 
greetings,
on the subject of dyeing, has anybody bleached out black g10? is it possible to make black scales another color? wouldn't think so but maybe so. thanks and best regards.
mike
 
I don't think you could bleach black. The color is in the epoxy when normally colored. When dyeing you are adding color primarily to the surface.

I wonder what temp G10 is stable to and if you could use a pressure cooker to force the dye in deeper.
 
thanks, oregon. i didn't think black could be reversed. and i agree, the dye job would probably be only 'skin deep'. thanks again and best regards. mike
 
It is done. I will have pics and the debriefing in the morning.

Once again, I would like to thank all of you for your help and support!
 
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oregonknifenerd said:
I wonder what temp G10 is stable to and if you could use a pressure cooker to force the dye in deeper.
Click to expand...

265F for normal multipurpose G-10
335F for hi-temp but that would be considered G-11. About 50% $$ higher than G-10
425F for ultra hi-temp, that is G-7 (silicone resin added). About 3X G-11 pricing.

FWIW, all of these G-? materials specs come from the Garolite brand of products.
I'm sure other companies make their own versions so temps will vary.
 
2brothers said:
265F for normal multipurpose G-10
335F for hi-temp but that would be considered G-11. About 50% $$ higher than G-10
425F for ultra hi-temp, that is G-7 (silicone resin added). About 3X G-11 pricing.

FWIW, all of these G-? materials specs come from the Garolite brand of products.
I'm sure other companies make their own versions so temps will vary.
Click to expand...

Ya learn something new everyday. Thanks for the info!
 
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