It's not JUST a sharpening issue; it's a blade-steel issue...

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Sonnydaze

Sonnydaze

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Here's my take on this. Why can't I get someone...the knife-maker of my mid-tech, or a custom guy in this forum...to make me a new blade to replace the crappy blade on my EDC?
I love my knife; I've carried it for 1 1/2 years...
It FITS my hand perfectly, but the steel is far down Ankerson's list for good reason. It doesn't take a good edge; nor will it hold an edge...IMO.

I'd take just about any steel in Ankerson's first two categories, although I'd prefer something in the first category with a good hardness. I'd be delighted to get something in 10V or 125V.
I'd ask for a full flat grind, fairly thin behind the edge. If the blade-shape itself is a "patent" issue, then I'd be happy to take a different blade-shape that still fits within the grip. Perhaps this is a question formed in ignorance. But I'm really tired of "lesser" steels, and would love to "upgrade..."
 
I'll bite. What is your edc? Perhaps making a new blade by hand would be a greater expense than buying a higher end production knife?
 
The situation is mostly likely limited to the fit that the maker provides on the OEM knife. Having a second party build you a blade for an existing handle would be almost as much work as having them make you an entirely new knife.

They'd have to fit the blade to the existing lock, stop pin, handle, length, etc.. It would be like putting a 5.0 V8 into a Honda Civic. It can be done, but it won't be easy since the car was designed for a specific engine size.
 
Maybe make one yourself. Stock removal isn't that hard even without the proper tools it's possible but will just take painfully long.
If you get a precision ground flat stock of the same thickness as the blade around its pivot you should be golden.
Heat treatment can the be done outside.

Also the patent thingy might not just be the shape of the blade but also that of the "tang" or special pivot hole and whatnot.
 
Sonnydaze said:
Here's my take on this. Why can't I get someone...the knife-maker of my mid-tech, or a custom guy in this forum...to make me a new blade to replace the crappy blade on my EDC?
I love my knife; I've carried it for 1 1/2 years...
It FITS my hand perfectly, but the steel is far down Ankerson's list for good reason. It doesn't take a good edge; nor will it hold an edge...IMO.

I'd take just about any steel in Ankerson's first two categories, although I'd prefer something in the first category with a good hardness. I'd be delighted to get something in 10V or 125V.
I'd ask for a full flat grind, fairly thin behind the edge. If the blade-shape itself is a "patent" issue, then I'd be happy to take a different blade-shape that still fits within the grip. Perhaps this is a question formed in ignorance. But I'm really tired of "lesser" steels, and would love to "upgrade..."
Click to expand...

There must be a few other improvements that can be made to the entire knife?

Just have someone make you an entire knife based on everything you love about that one and maybe a few improvements including the blade steel...

I am not saying "clone" it, but take all the good and add the things that would make it more then perfect....

Making just a blade seems much more complicated for the reasons BB mentioned above. If you do happen to find someone though PM me, I want a 3V or 20CV blade for my Insingo....
 
Get a new knife. 6 months after a new blade is fitted, the rest of the knife will fall apart. That's life.
 
As with most things. Almost anything is possible. The only question is how much are you willing to pay.


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As usual, Blues seemed to sum it up quite well. And the rest of you were also giving me the right information: just get a new knife with a steel that I like.
Just so you know, the steel is CTS-B75P... Some of you might like it; I don't.
The maker is a good guy...I have other folders designed by him (with super-steels) that I really admire. I don't wish to slam him...
As far as having another knife made...I've had three customs made from scratch with my own design, and they just didn't "work.." That was before I bought this mid-tech that just fits my hand so well... If I could clone my present knife...as was suggested...I'd probably do it.
I just needed to vent a bit...thanks for your suggestions.
 
Willard, I could almost agree with you. I have a few CRK's in the safe. I carried a large Seb for one year and a Zaan for several years.
The small Seb (too darned short in closed length) falls out of my hand and the large Sebbie is a bit too large for me...that's how I ended up with my mid-tech.
I guess it's fair to mention that Chris Reeve has asked for folks' ideas on a new model, and I've been quick to ask for a "mid-sized" Sebbie with a darned good steel.
BTW, the manual flipper works just great...it really has proven to be transparent in my use...from day ONE.
 
I'm guessing it's a Southard. I reckon you would wind up paying the cost of the knife to get a new blade done at the very least and I doubt it would be brad who's willing to do it.

What's interesting is it seems the only thing you don't like about the steel isntest results instead of any real world complaints and your suggestions for replacement steels are on two opposite ends of the spectrum.
 
No offense the Ankerson buy if you want a knife that can just cut rope all day, but a rockstead. It would probably be cheaper than reblading your knife.
 
Sonny, what don't you like about the steel? I've never tried that particular steel, so I don't have much insight. However, some just need a little geometry manipulation in order to make them perform optimally.

Too chippy- How acute is the secondary bevel?
Too hard to sharpen- How obtuse is the bevel?
Doesn't hold an edge well- how acute/obtuse is the bevel?
Rusts too easily- use some darn tuf-glide:D

There's a very good chance that you just flat out despise said steel though!
 
CTS-B75P is very close to CPM-154. Just re-ht the blade to 63-64rc. However no point doing that if result is brittle, so talk to your hter about your expectation.
 
Reblade probably cost effective when doing in bulk, since overhead of 1z 2z is too high. otoh, re-ht may work ok for both parties, unless the metal in blade is ruined.
Chris "Anagarika";16187799 said:
I've been asking Luong for reblade. ;)
I guess Blues is right. It's too much difficulty.
Click to expand...
 
Blues Bender said:
Sonny, what don't you like about the steel? I've never tried that particular steel, so I don't have much insight. However, some just need a little geometry manipulation in order to make them perform optimally.
There's a very good chance that you just flat out despise said steel though!
Click to expand...

I think I need to throw it on the Edge Pro and "certify" my bevels with the Angle Cube. I have been free-handing for quite some time with 8" DMT Duosharp, and even with a Sharpie, perhaps my angles are obtuse. OTOH, this blade NEVER did cut, even when brand new... :)
Perhaps I should look at the Fantoni in S125v as a replacement option.
 
That steel is the CPM version of BG-42, which is considered a perfectly good steel. I wasn't personally fond of it when Chris Reeve was using it because he ran it too so for my taste and I got horrible wire edges and edge chipping.


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