I've got a forge.

Interestingly enough, that appears to be the Model 654, with a temperature rated range of 400° F. to 1800° F ...running off of 4 bunsen burners. I imagine that with a 1" layer of ceramic batt insulation coated with Satanite, and 1 or 2 propane forge burners, that baby could easily reach above 2000° F.
 
She could be a monster of a welder with a little tuning and modification. Yeah, different torches could set her free. Later reline her with soft fire brick.
You just need a hard spot and a hammer to get started. I've even done it on a big chunk of granite block. Works ok if there's enough mass.
 
This has two openings in the top and four in the bottom for the burners. If I were to line it, what would I line? top, bottom and both sides or just the sides? Also, with the condition it's in now, will it at least work for heat treating? I forgot to mention it has a firebrick plate that lays across the center above the burners.
Scott
 
I'd line the top and sides at least, bottom if you can without too much difficulty. The Kaowool and coatings will reflect heat, while the firebricks kind of suck it up and hold it.
The brick over the burners is probably to help it heat more evenly, and keep junk from falling into the burners. Probably won't need to do anything to it.

If you decide to make a different burner or something, you can close off any openings you don't need when you line it also. That way all you have to do is NOT cut a hole, instead of trying to plug one :D
What you've got is very useable as it is, but a little kwool on the top and sides at least will improves things for you.
 
I think I'd probably try and wrap as much of it as I could in ceramic blanket insulation and coat with Satanite. I'd probably poke all four bottom holes thru the ceramic blanket too, just in case you ever wanted to add more burners or a pyrometer's temperature probe. You could always plug the spare holes with firebrick kiln plugs. Not sure what the top holes are for ...vents maybe ...but I'd probably cover them on the inside with the ceramic blanket and Satanite.

Then again, maybe it'd be prudent to cover the bottom holes, and convert the top holes to forge burner holes.

Or, the best of both worlds ...top holes for the forge burners, and bottom holes for the original bunsen 'heat treat' burners.

Or, you could always convert one of the top holes to a blower mount.

Ummm ....I didn't exactly help anything with this post, did I :)
 
Well fellas the heat treat furnace works like a champ. Heat treated my first blade in it today. 1/4" thick by 1 3/4" 5160. It has an 8" blade. The overall length was 13 1/2". It took about 10 to 15 mins to bring it to non-magnetic then quench. That sucker gets HOT quick! It holds the heat inside very well. I do think it being converted as you guys suggested would make it more effecient.
Scott
 
Cool as Grits!
Now, comes the fun part........collecting hammers, tongs, anvils,......
Getting into the dark side of knifemaking, or is it the farside?
No matter what, the adventure continues and once it becomes an addiction, no therapist will be able to help.
Congrats!
I'll make a point to hunt you up at the Blade and get the rest of the story.
 
crex said:
Cool as Grits!
Now, comes the fun part........collecting hammers, tongs, anvils,......
Getting into the dark side of knifemaking, or is it the farside?
No matter what, the adventure continues and once it becomes an addiction, no therapist will be able to help.
Congrats!
I'll make a point to hunt you up at the Blade and get the rest of the story.
Click to expand...
crex, the blade I did is one I'm working on to bring to the Blade show so you'll get to see it completed. Now with this one I did a full blade quench then triple tempered with a propane torch. I'm also planning on doing two more Woodcraft/Razorback knives made out of O1 to bring to Blade. Look for table 17 G Wolf's Knives, I'll be there with Glenn Smit who I owe alot to for his help and guidance.
Scott
 
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