I've narrowed it down. Little confirmation please...

Why not get a multi-tool or Swiss-style multi-tool knife as your second? The bigger multi-tools have pliers and the Swiss Army Knife (SAK for short) ones have scissors. They also usually have all kinds of useful goodies like Philips-head screwdrivers, beer openers (can be used on other bottles, too. I've heard...), files, and saws. This way, your 350 can cut the world in half and your multi-tool or SAK can put it back together (too bad they don't have acetylene torches and glue guns built in).
 
Actually, I have a mini SAK on my keychain and that thing gets used like you wouldn't believe but is unable to handle some of the larger tasks and that's why I want a decent knife. I don't want a larger SAK because they're bulky and unwieldy. I think I may replace my mini SAK just because I've had this one for so long and the blade is gunked up and dull.

I've pretty much got myself convinced that the BM 350 Mel Pardue will be finding it's way to my home shortly.

Drivie
 
Musky,

The 350 is a Benchmade. A darn fine one for those right-handed people I keep seeing on the television.

Used those 204UF's the other night on my Nimravus. They work great.
 
For the uses you describe, none of which are heavy use, and all of which would benefit from a fine tip, the Leek would be my choice.
The EDC's recurve would be better for tough cutting, but it doesn't have a tip that's good for fine work. The Griptilian would be a pretty good compromise, and maybe the 350, though I'd never buy a knife with such a low grind. I hate it when they throw away cutting performance in favor of "cool factor".

Personally, I'd get a mini-AFCK.
 
OwenM,

Thanks for the advice. When you say a "low grind", what do you mean by that and how does this grind differ from say the AFCK grind?

Thanks!

Drivie
 
Well, I started looking at pics to point out, and it appears that the newer AFCKs have lower grinds than the old ones, though they're still higher than the 350. Still killed part of my point, though:(
Anyway...
Here's the 350:
http://www.1sks.com/images/benchmade/bm-minimelpardue.jpg
It's 1/8" thick. Look where the thickest part of the blade is. Right in the middle. From there the blade is ground in a V down to the edge. What determines how well a knife cuts (ignoring blade shape and all that stuff, and assuming a flat ground blade, which I think all BMs are) is the thickness of the edge, and the material behind the edge. The lower that grind is, and closer to the edge, the more obtuse the angle, and the worse it cuts. The higher the grind, and greater distance from the edge, the better it cuts, because by the time it gets to the edge, it's thinner..
Think aerodynamics.
That's a pretty general way of looking at it, I know, and if you're not cutting thick or binding materials, it may never matter one bit to you, but the blade grind is the first thing I look at, since I'm obsessed with all this knife stuff:rolleyes:
 
OwenM,

Thanks for the additional info. I'm trying really hard not to get obsessed with steel types and blade grinds as I believe that just about any knife will serve my purposes well. I do, however, appreciate you taking the time to explain it to me in a comprehensive manner.

EDITED TO ADD: Couldn't one simply have the knife re-ground with a different edge or is this not an easy task to perform?

I would like to get the best knife for the money without getting carried away. I think I should probably keep to the BM 350, BM Griptillian or Kershaw Leek for simplicity.

Thanks!

Drivie
 
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