I've now handled a Busse, IWA show Germany

Cliff Stamp · Mar 31, 2001

For limbing and general brush clearing I like a blade to be a little longer than 10". However at some point they start to become awkward. At 18"+ I have found that there are serious problems with lighter work. For example if I have a small tree that I can handle easily with one hand, I like to limb it out while it is held upright in my left hand. This is pretty much the largest wood you need to work with for shelter building unless you are building a perm. structure along the lines of a log cabin.

There are a few heavy blades I would like to see. A khukuri about the size of an 18" AK from HI, but slightly thinner. A large parang styled blade, about 18-22", and an intermediate parang about 14" . As well as slimmer BM, say 3/16" with a similar flat grind. This would be geared for lighter work than the regular version obviously.

-Cliff

Andrew Lynch · Mar 31, 2001

I love your suggestions Cliff. Here are my two suggestions for new Busse knives.

The first is a 3/16" fighter with a pretty fine point and about a 7" blade.

The second is a knife like the battle mistress except with about a 12 or 13" blade. I think this model should be made in two models; one of 1/4" stock, the other in about 3/16" stock. So you have a parang and a machete.

Jerry, in the combat line, for every one inch longer the blade, the knife costs around 25$ more. That is very reasonable, I think. So, I think that a model like the large one I suggested would cost about $450 max. I think a LOT of people would appreciate the extra chopping ability and buy this model. It would be awesome.

Oh, and Cliff; if I ever start my own knife company, you'll have to be my chief designer!!!

GREENJACKET · Apr 3, 2001

Cliff, the thinner BM does sound better. Is this to allow it to be more easily used for those finner tasks where excess bulk is a hindrance?

The 14 inch hard wood chopper sounds about right too. My Marauder II (15 inch blade) is about all I can handle/control due to its weight and length. This is a good compromise of length, weight and ability to get close in on some of the more tricky tasks. I don't want to go the route of a short heavy clever, prefering length and velocity. It makes for a reasonable digging tool as well.

I presume the 18-22 inch parang is for foliage clearance jungle style as in the longer Martindale range. This in a spring steel not hard ridged steel? Reach, lightness and keen edge being the main priorities.

The 18 inch kukri, is because you want something stiff. It should handle several tasks, foliage and tougher woods, quite well. I don't have any experience with these elongated kukris so can not comment.

When you say parang, are you refering to a quite straight, almost sword like, blade with an in line handle? I find the kukri angled design quite unfamiliar to my European methods. However, I do intend to give a kukri some time this summer to see how the system performs and how able I am in adjusting to its ways.

Our discussion is becoming quite general, maybe we could transfer it over to where others may have a greater input?

Cliff Stamp · Apr 10, 2001

GREENJACKET:

the thinner BM does sound better. Is this to allow it to be more easily used for those finner tasks where excess bulk is a hindrance?

Basically the 1/4" stock thickness on the BM gives it a couple of nice abilities first among them is that it is very strong. However if you throw out prying then all that remains is that basically it won't bind as heavy in larger wood, and you can use heavier chopping techniques because of the decent mass. But if you are cutting lighter wood then you don't want maximum force as much as maxium velocity and you will get more with a lighter blade up to a point. As well you have a blade that in generally cuts better for all light stress work.

[14 inch hard wood chopper]

This is a good compromise of length, weight and ability to get close in on some of the more tricky tasks.

Yes, exactly what I was thinking.

I presume the 18-22 inch parang is for foliage clearance jungle style as in the longer Martindale range.

Yes, mainly for clearing around downed wood very quickly as well as clearing out a heavily ingrown dead area (no light).

This in a spring steel not hard ridged steel? Reach, lightness and keen edge being the main priorities.

Yes, as you move up into this class of blade the edge retention of INFI starts to lose its appeal. You would always want it if you can get it of course, but what you are willing to trade off for it starts to become less and less. As well cost starts to become a factor. The custom price for Busse is like $100 an inch. While I do think INFI would make a good large parang, I don't think I would pay $2200 for one. I would try something like S7, L6 etc. .

The 18 inch kukri, is because you want something stiff. It should handle several tasks, foliage and tougher woods, quite well.

Yes exactly. On felling thicker woods I find the extra long blades to be more cumbersome, consider the amount of clearance they need for one thing. By the time you get all the brush cleared out of the way a shorter blade would have felling the tree. As well you have to be very careful working on downed wood and in general when chopping low as you don't want to smash the foot of steel above the impact point into something like a rock. And as you mention, for many types of heavier chopping you don't want excessive length as you can do any twisting as the blade just flexes.

I don't have any experience with these elongated kukris so can not comment.

If you are interested I can drop you a loan of my 18" AK, just let me know when you want to see it and if you haven't got a hold of one by summer.

When you say parang, are you refering to a quite straight, almost sword like, blade with an in line handle?

Yes.

Feel free to respond to this in the general forum to open it up to discussion.

-Cliff

I've now handled a Busse, IWA show Germany

Cliff Stamp

Andrew Lynch

GREENJACKET

Cliff Stamp