J & L Drive Wheel Removal

Well, I finally gave Tom Krein a call and inquired about the Drive Pulley that this J&L grinder has on it. I felt he would have drawings of it that he received in the technical package that he received from John LeBlanc.

Tom seemed to have a vague recognition of this style, but did not know the exact reason for the two piece construction. He stated that John may have been looking for more economical ways to manufacture parts. However, making the hub two pieces with a close if not press fit (The Rim was never loose from the Hub even with screws removed.) of the drive rim/web piece to the hub with the attendant mill work of necessitating C-bored holes, and drilled and tapped holes, wouldn't likely have resulted in a cost saving.

I still go with my supposition that this two piece design would allow the Rim to be used with different bore size hubs for larger HP motors.

But back to the task of removing the Drive Wheel. The Hub had as previously stated, had a single set screw over the key way. Removing this set screw should have allowed the Drive Wheel assembly to be slid off the motor shaft, but did not. Granted, there was some corrosion on the visible end of the motor shaft, but the Hub completely swallowed the motor shaft, so it shouldn't have been a problem.

I did have to resort to a puller, the beam and sliding bar jaw type to get over the Hub. The Drive Wheel came off with a "chirp" of movement every turn of the screw or so with a crescent wrench. Never seen an aluminum wheel fit that tight on a steel shaft. I ran a 5/8 hand reamer thru the hub, polished the key faces and motor shaft with some 320 grit emory cloth. It slides on the motor shaft freely now, less key.

Now on with the motor mount rotation so I can utilize the base mount for mounting the Minarik drive.

I can post a couple of shots of the Drive Wheel removed if anyone wants a closer look at its construction.

Thanks for all your suggestions!

Stan
 
Good thing you got that puller. Sometimes it's the only thing that will work.

I have a grinder motor in my shop that has the front busted right out of the motor casting, from me trying to remove an aluminum hub without a puller. Glad that didn't happen to you.

Another thought, the original grinder was 1 speed right? Could it have come with two or more different rims in order to change belt speed?
 
Salem Straub said:
Good thing you got that puller. Sometimes it's the only thing that will work.

I have a grinder motor in my shop that has the front busted right out of the motor casting, from me trying to remove an aluminum hub without a puller. Glad that didn't happen to you.

Another thought, the original grinder was 1 speed right? Could it have come with two or more different rims in order to change belt speed?
Click to expand...

Yes , I took the cautious approach because I didn't want to risk damage to the aluminum parts. It's my nature when I'm not in a big hurry about something. I haven't always been that way though. I remember my mother saying to me once that when I took things apart to repair them, that I "tore up more than I fixed up." But that is how you learn how things are made is to take them apart. I don't think she meant to discourage me, and didn't, became an engineer in spite of it.

Motors can easily be damaged by driving something off, or on, the motor shaft. It is extremely easy to brinell the bearing races in the motor from the point contact of the balls when hammering on the offending pulley. Spin the shaft and you can feel the balls clicking past the dents. Done that myself. I started buying pullers second hand when I ran across them, just for someday when that one might work in a particular situation that I might encounter.

I hadn't thought about changing rims for adjusting speed on a fixed speed grinder. Certainly that could have been the thinking with the two piece design. The direction it was mounted you would have had to remove the hub, but you could do it for sure.

Stan
 
I had considered localized heating but not with a torch. I have some "hairdryer style" heat guns that would allow a much safer heat input than I could possibly get with a torch, but yes, selectively heating the drive wheel's Web might have loosened it from the Hub. Or, heat applied to the Hub proper might have loosened the Hub's fit on the motor shaft.

For every thing that can go right when applying heat, there are probably several things that can go very wrong. But yes, 200-300F sounds pretty safe.

Stan
 
bladsmth said:
I suspect 300F and a nylon mallet will dislodge the wheel.
Click to expand...

He got it back in post #22

forgesmoke said:
I did have to resort to a puller, the beam and sliding bar jaw type to get over the Hub.

The Drive Wheel came off with a "chirp" of movement every turn of the screw or so with a crescent wrench.

Never seen an aluminum wheel fit that tight on a steel shaft.
I ran a 5/8 hand reamer thru the hub, polished the key faces and motor shaft with some 320 grit emory cloth.

It slides on the motor shaft freely now, less key.
Click to expand...





ForgeSmoke
I'd love to see the pics - There is very little JL grinder content here or online.
 
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