Jantz steel not actually annealed?

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Apr 3, 2004
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I've been working on a folder idea (2 7/8" of cutting edge shoehorned into 3 1/2" of handle) out of 3/32" 1095 from Jantz, and hit a problem.

The 5/32" 1095 from Admiral cuts easily- regular HSS bit and 700rpm on the drill press works great. However, this 3/32"... I killed more bits today than I have in months. It doesn't grind too easily either.

Is it only surface annealed, or is there something I'm missing? If it's full hard, how do I heat treat it?
 
No ideas? I'm pondering redoing the blade I've cut out- my original plans were 3.5" blade in a 4" handle- so any clues on how to drill this would be appreciated.
 
The listing said it was already annealed, so I didn't think it would be needed. I don't know if it is actually full hard, but it was giving both a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and a hacksaw fits.
 
700 is a lil'bit slow for that size bit. you may want to check the speed it may be work hardening in the hole. you can take a small bur an go over the hardened part in the hole an try to drill it again
Or anneal it and try it again.
 
I can run that old Delta up to 4000rpm, what would you recommend, 1000?

I'm probably going to scrap today's blade and try again tomorrow. Note to self- wear a hat, sparks in hair hurt!
 
shoul be a lil more than 1000 but not much. 1000 should work. dont forget to use plenty of oil. there is a formula but we wont get into all that.
 
Solid Carbide bits are not inexpensive but scrapping a good blade is more expensive......solid carbide bits....and patience and plenty of coolant or lube.
 
The blade isn't quite what I had in mind- took too much length trying to undo a mistake- so scrapping it is not a problem. I was going for a straight back, but an errant swipe with the grinder led to it being a spear. Considering I'm not much for spears, it had to go.
 
I can run that old Delta up to 4000rpm, what would you recommend, 1000?

I'm probably going to scrap today's blade and try again tomorrow. Note to self- wear a hat, sparks in hair hurt!

IMHO, and this is all it is, my opinion, 700 rpm is much, much too fast for a .218 drill using a manual drill press in high carbon steel. Slow it down to ~ 300-350 rpm. Pecking your drill will help too. Not only will it break the chip, it also helps to reduce heat build-up that occurs when pushing the drill straight through the material. Slow your RPM down to about half of what is recommended on generic drill charts(usually based on drilling mild steel)(and IMO, still, too fast) and peck, peck, peck..... in increments of ~ .020-.030, for every hole that you drill. Use a little bit of cutting oil and I promise you, your drill bits will last longer, and your holes will come out better. Promise.:thumbup: The pecking trick really comes in handy when drilling very small diameter, deep holes. Again, reducing heat build-up and breaking the chip/cleaning chips out of the deep hole where built up chips can cause big heat problems and binding from chips, which, inevitably cause drill breakage.

For some reason (and I'm not directing this towards you but to young apprentices I've worked with) when guys have problems with drilling, whether it be a work hardened half drilled hole, or just tough material, the first reaction is to speed the drill up. Do just the opposite to successfully finish the hole. Slow it waaaay down, especially in the case of a work hardened hole, and I mean waaaaaay down, like less than 100rpm, add a dab of cutting oil and a little more pressure at first to get through the tough skin and you will be able to finish the hole.

Go slow, use cutting oil, and peck when drilling high carbon steel


;)
 
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Well, I can't go that low, but I can go to 400 rpm and peck it. Hopefully that works- I've enough stock for one more blade/dummy spring attempt.
 
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