Japanese style knives? Need info and links.

Silent, no that blade is not an L6 bainite katana. That particular wakizashi was of "sanmai" construction where Howard sandwiched some 1086 in between two pieces of high layer steel. The heat treat put some *serious* cool stuff into the temper line.

I will try to post some pictures of an L6 hamon as well as some more closeup pics of this particular sanmai wak later this week. The differences are quite apparent and kind of enlightening.

3/16ths...I will try to think of a good way to teach you about hishigame and their placement. It is not an easy thing to describe and unfortunately I have no pictures of the process. Pictures are always worth a thousand words. I started years ago wrapping handles without the benefit of those pesky little paper forms and some have stood up pretty well. But the proper installation of the forms just seems to give the crispness to the diamonds that I (and my clients) appreciate.

But I will have to contemplate how to tell you, 3/16ths. I could show you in 20 minutes and save you a year of trouble but it might take me a year to *tell* you how it's done in writing!:(

Stay tuned this week for more "Japanese Styled Stuff 101"....I haven't had this much discussion and fun in 5 years guys.

Brian
 
Galloglas,
Thanks a lot for all of the input on the subject, it has been extremly helpfull. Your method for making the Habaki is very smart, I would have never thought of doing it like you did, thanks for sharing it. I have been studying my wakizashi, even though it is a cheaper sword it has all of the fittings on it. I think I will unwrap the handle and wrap it back up for practice.

My next project is going to be a Tanto with an OAL of 12", this should be a nice project to practice some of this, maybe not all of the fittings but even if I can just wrap the handle and give it a nice Japanese look that would be cool, then I can expand to make the other fittings as I get more and more experience with it.

Here is a link to the Thomas Buck page for you guys starting out like me. Has info on wrapping a handle. If anyone knows of another good site for handle wrapping please post here too. Handle wrap and here is a link to a site that has cotton wrap over 6' for about $9-$10 Cotton wrap. I have never bought from this site and it looks like it is based in Japan, if I read it right it has cotton wrap for a decent price, I'm not sure but I think I will buy some if it is only $9-$10 and use it to practice on.

One other question that I think would help everyone is does anyone have any hints, methods or links for grinding a tanto or Japanese styled tip on a knife? either the traditional or the american styled one like on cold steel knives.

Galloglas,
I can't wait to see the other pics you talked about in your last post. By the way, if you ever have any questions about computers or want to ask about any problems or future upgrades for computers feel free to email me and I will help you with whatever I can. I don't know every thing about computers but I know a few things and may be able to help. You may know all you need to about PC's I just want to try and offer something in return for your help.

After awhile I am going to try and make up a nice page with all of the best links for fittings, pictures, stores, methods and anything else about Japanese swords and I will post it here or email a ZIP file to anyone that wants it. This would just be a nice compilation of good web sites and stores. Later everyone.
 
Sensei Galloglas, any effort is greatly appreciated. I echo your sentiments about this thread as well. Perhaps, if I told you how I go about wrapping, it may serve as a starting point for an explanation about Hishigame. I use my hands only with no vise. I completely wrap the blade then apply the glue to seal the wrap and keep it in one place. I could see where using something to hold the blade would possibly free your hands up to place the Hishigame. Do you glue the Hishigame?

Hugh
 
I lightbulb just went on concerning Hishigami. What if I took 2 strips of very wet leather, not to heavy and fastened them somehow to the Tsuka. One along the length of the Spine, and the other along the belly. Then wrap over top of them. After the leather has dried, dismantle the wrap and theoretically, you should see on the leather strips the imprint of the wrap and more importantly, where the Hishigami should go. You could either use this for a pattern for paper Hishigami, or just trim away the excess leather for a more "modern approach". Does this sound feasible?

Hugh
 
Here's a couple of quick pix that illustrate the difference between the hamon on Howard Clark's 1086/sanmai blades as opposed to the L6 bainite hamon.

sanmaiutsuri.jpg


This is a close up of the sanmai wak from earlier posts that shows all of the cool activities and utsuri (reflections) that Howard's heat treat and steel can produce.

As a contrast, here is the hamon on an L6 bainite katana from 2 years ago.



L6hamon.jpg


As you can see, the L6 is still really attractive but not nearly so active or distinct. Polishing and etching really help make the bainite hamon appear cool, IMO.

I haven't forgotten about the hishigame stuff. I just have not had time to formulate a credible response. In the meantime go to Thomas Bucks site and check out the tsukamaki section. This is *VERY* comprehensive and well done at: http://pages.prodigy.net/tlbuck/tsuka/tsuka.htm
I have some additional hints and tricks to add to this stuff but this should give you the basis for those "pesky little paper triangles" and how they can improve the look and trditional appearance of your Japanese style blades.

Chew on this awhile till I get some more info. written down.

Later,
Brian
 
Those are the instructions I used to do my wrap! Cool!

Hey Hugh, what do you use to coat your wrap in? And where do you suggest I look for shoelaces? Thanks man!
 
Guys, has anyone just gone to a sewing store for tsuka? My girlfriend dragged me to Jo-Ann's the other week, then had to drag me out. They have thousands of YARDS of Silk, Cotton, Nylon, Hemp or Burlap, and Linen cord. I mean spools and spools of it. If there is a thrifty bunch of people it is seamstresses.
 
Hey Crayola! Typically I use a flat black, 72" boot lace that I pick up from Canadian Tire. Stay away from skate laces, imho they look like crap. For a "modern" style wrap, this stuff is actually quite good. I did try going to one of the big sewing stores in Calgary and they do have tons and tons of stuff that would make ideal wrap, unfortunately it's all to thin. It may be worth your while though to take a spin through one if you have the time, you just never know!

After I am finished the wrap, I'll drip crazy glue down the spine and belly, and over each diamond intersection. I try and use as little as possible. Too much and it feels rough to the touch. If you get just the right amount on, the wrap remains solid but still has a little softness left. FYI, I bought 10' of silk Tsukaito from Bugei. When it was all said and done, it ended up costing around $70. Expensive, but wow does it feel and look good.

Hugh
 
Hey everyone,
From my last post the links I posted about the cotton wrap, does it seem like a good price for it? Maybe it would be better to just buy laces or go to the local fabric store. What do you all think? Another thing I have been wondering is how do you determine the lenght you need? It seems like I read for every X amount inches you need XX amount of wrap but I'm not sure the exact formula.

I have also wondered if you use silk wrap does it hold a lot better compared to cotton? Is there anywhere you can buy Ray skin or something traditional to what they used in Japan, maybe some kind of shark or fish skin? I have only seen shark skin for sale. I have thought about using plain leather for the ~Same~, are there any other good subs to use instead.

My wife is from Japan. She was born in Tokyo, I am going to ask her if she has ever heard of any shops or if she knows of any suppliers in Japan that sell good stuff for a cheap price. A lot of times the Japanese have a easier time getting ahold of this stuff than a Gaijin:). One day we are going to visit Japan and you can bet I will be looking at as many Samurai and Ninja temples and old time training grounds as I can.
 
Hey there MPJ, I'd like to try it although at $45 cdn it still is a bit pricey. Right now I use shoelaces but you are limited to about 72" (seems like that is as long as they make them). I have used stuff from sewing stores (probably polyester). The plus side is that it is available in any length and in any width, therefore you could theoretically buy a piece long enough for a katana. The down side is that it is about 1/2 the thickness of silk wrap or a shoelace. IMHO, it doesn't feel right in the hand. FYI, i've found that a 72" shoelace will wrap a handle approximately 5" long with contouring.

As to underlay, i've use Carbon fiber cloth, cord, and Salmon skin. All look pretty good if done neatly. One thing I'd like to try is stamping a pattern in light leather and using that for underlay. Tandy makes a stamp (forget the name of it that produces an effect like reptile skin). I'm currently working on a long dagger that will have an underlay of Carbon Fiber/Kevlar cloth (black and yellow weave).

Hope this helps.

Hugh
 
Having read and reviewed the Thomas Buck site on tsukamaki I find that this most excellent site has summed it up about as well as it can be done. I really can't add a whole lot that will help a beginner get started but I do have a couple of things that I would like to amplify or disagree with. The first thing I would like to comment on is the paper strips along the top and bottom of the handle core. Please refer to the site on tsukamaki at: http://pages.prodigy.net/tlbuck/tsuka/tsuka.htm which I mentioned in an earlier post.

The paper strips at top and bottom form a stop or ridge that will prevent the paper form from backing out of the "Vee" as the ito is pulled tight. Think about it...as you pull the ito tight you form a chute that is triangular in shape. This forces the wedge shaped hishigame to "back out' of the pocket that you have formed...the ridge formed by the paper strips at top and bottom form a ridge that prevents it from backing up. So the ridge must be pronounced enough to stop the wedge but not so high as to be seen with the ito over the top. you must experiment ands adjust to this phenomenon and each handle will be different depending upon the width and thickness of the wrapping material and the width and shape of the handle in general.

I disagree with wetting the hishigame. The ito should conform to the paper...not to have the paper conform to the ito. You must force the ito to follow a crisp line. Its like the filling in a little pie or pillow. It forces the outside fabric to adhere to the dimensions of the filling.....Little wedge shaped ravioli. *CrAp*...now I'm hungry!

The exact width, taper, length, and thickness of the form will, to some degree, determine the same dimensions of the triangular shaped opening where the same' (rayskin) shows though. It is critical that it not be outside the design limitations of the handle dimensions...IE, you can't make a 30mm high diamond opening out of a 25mm high handle. There is a limit to how much shaping can occur with the shape and dimensions of the hishigame.

Also, as far as alternatives to silk or cotton tsukaito go, anything that approximates a tape or thread will do. I *really* like the effect of taking parachute cord (paracord) and removing the center strands from a section and then using the "tube" that is left over as ito for wrapping. I bought a bunch of 50' hanks of paracord from Happy Camper.com in various colors. Works really well and it is cheap when compared to anything that is imported from Japan.

Just to show you my heart is in the right place, I leave you with a picture of an "alternatively" wrapped short sword. The blade is, of course, by Howard Clark. The wrap is pink paracord over white nylon string. We decided that the pink was...well, too punk. So we changed it to black so the sword would appear more normal.



pinkpunk.jpg


I always liked the pink better.

Later Dudes!
Brian
 
Holy that wrap is totally cool Brian! One last question on Hishigami. Do you glue your paper wedges prior to wrapping and do you use a vise? (sorry, 2 questions:)) Thanks again for all the valuable info.

Hugh
 
That was a good post Galloglas. One quick question, if you use glue on the handle does this messthe wraping up if you want to take it off and wrap it again? It just seems like the glue would be easy too on the wrapping material.
 
3/16ths,

Yes, I use glue on my paper forms (hishigame). I actually use construction paper that is folded over about 5 to 7 times and then I use wood glue to seal the last fold. I let it dry while clamped between two boards and then cut the triagular shaped wedges out with a sharp exacto knife.

Generally, wrapping a handle without a vise or some sort of jig to hold the handle and a good clamp is really tough. You have to support the work and clamp the last wrap in order to flip the whole thing over and do the other side. It doesn't need to be really all that tight if you are going to rub epoxy or super glue into the wrap as the glue will hold it all together and prevent shifting.

mpj13,

Any glue that is not dry on the handle will pretty much screw up the wrapping material if you try to remove it and try again. Glue and second trys are pretty much mutually exclusive concepts! ;)

You want to make sure anything you do in terms of wrapping are as good as you can make them before you add glue or epopxy to the recipe.
Steve Corkum did a cool article in Knives Illustrated in the June issue about wrapping Japanese style knife handles using epoxy. He does not (or did not in this article) use hishigame but his results seem pretty fair judging by the popularity of his knives! If you can find a copy of this read it and study it.

Good luck,
Brian
 
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