Japanese style wraps

J

John L

Joined
Oct 28, 2004
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After seeing the collections posted by Leu on Custom Knives forum I am very impressed with all the different style cord wraps. After soaking with epoxy, I believe, are they good to go in a kitchn for example? Does anyone know of a good tutorial on these different wraps? Thanks.
 
That second post in bladsmth's post is the one I've used for years....

http://pages.prodigy.net/tlbuck/tsuka/tsuka.htm


As for materials, start with parchute cord with the core removed; very cool and cheap to use. Soak with CA upon completion. I'll post a pic if you like. Getting your turns right and learning to tie a "spanish ring knot" to start with at the ricasso are of the greatest importance. My method of ring knot then wrapping is not the traditional way however, I'm starting with a guardless knife.

Traditional silk materials are here, among other places. I can't vouch for the pricing as I've never researched it much. Traditional silk however ain't cheap.

http://www.bugei.com/

That initial knot here, several vids on tying it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqqVA3Ujhjc

PIx of a couple of old shop knives I wrapped:

5515183501_ab70b80ab5_z.jpg


5515183665_f6debf42a3_z.jpg


5515183195_d6a8099c45_z.jpg
 
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Yes, beginning and ending with a Turk's Head or Spanish Ring Knot is a really nice look and feel.
Make yourself some knotting needles or apply cyanoacrylate to about 6" of the ends of the lace so you can do the under-over work on the knots. A lacing fid and a pair of thin needle nose pliers is also a necessity.

Here is a good tutorial for both on the same pages.
http://www.hought.com/art.sprk.1.html
 
Anvilring -
Is there a trick to soaking in superglue (which I assume you meant by CA)? I always find that whenever I apply it anywhere visible it turns white and crusty before it dries.
Thanks,
Chris
 
Greetings Chris.
Whenever I've used it in this manner, it has just soaked in nicely with no problems. I think however some people don't use "fresh" CA. I buy cheap CA and use a newly opened tube/tubes. No old stuff. It should come out like water. Put the knife upright in a vise to wrap it where you can get around (the vise) almost 270o, tie/wrap tightly, do your "turns" as noted in this link:

http://pages.prodigy.net/tlbuck/tsuka/tsuka.htm


Take your time, follow the instructions as best you can and know that:

(1) Its only parachute cord! - cheap - untieable (when it doesn't look right) or just use some new (remove the core first!)

(2) Is only written is stone when you drop CA on it! So; like it before you glue it!

regards, m
 
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I've learned alot from Mr. Pohan Leu about cord wrapping for knives.

I'm experienced in tsukamaki and have been doing it for years, but wasn't really sure about how to use the epoxies etc.

The epoxy that was recommended to me was West System. It's very expensive ($80 for the complete setup) but it is amazing stuff. I have soaked a few handles with it and it dries clear, non glossy, and it's hard as a brick when cured. It'll do a thousand knife handles. Take a small metal acid brush, dress the bristles at an angle with some scissors, mix the epoxy 3 parts to 1, brush it on the wrap and let dry. Easy.

I use a flat cord that knifekits.com sells. You can get it for like 10 cents a foot or something like that. Pretty good stuff. Pohan recommends a heavy flat boot lace.

You can get stingray from various different places. i have also been experimenting with some round nylon cord from Hobby Lobby stores. Comes in large spools and accepts the epoxy well.

Here's some of the knives I make in this style.

FINISHEDHABU1.jpg
 
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To answer the question about the Japanese wraps doing well in the kitchen...

I wrapped a piece of plastic with the flat nylon cord and soaked it with the west system epoxy. After it dried, i left it out on the back porch in the elements. It's been there for a month in the rain and snow. The wrap is completely undamaged, has maintained it's color and still hard as a rock. The West System stuff is a marine epoxy, so water is not an issue.

I wouldn't really put a finished knife in the dishwasher or anything though...lol.

The only issue i see is food particles getting in the "diamonds" in the wrap. A good wipe down with a damp rag will not hurt the handle. I do it all the time with mine.

Alot of really great advice and really nice looking knives in this thread. This is the way I do mine, but I would try all these options and see whats best for you.
 
+1 on using West System epoxy for the handles. It is all I use now.
 
I've been considering wrapping the handle of a knife I made for my cousin, she wants pink ugh. Anyway, I was looking at what to put underneath it and I was considering some neoprene scales. Does this seem at all reasonable?

I have the knots and the wrapping down, I've always been good at that, I just wonder if the CA or whatever I end up using will affect the neoprene, or if there is no real reason to do it that way..?
 
I use System Three clear coat, which is similar to West System ( some say better). It is very thin and can be bought in smaller bottles sets from woodcraft. Use the flux brush application method psycho mentioned. Only apply enough to soak in and blot/wipe away any excess. With practice, you can impregnate the cord but it won't look any different than it did before treatment. Kydex can be used for the underlayment as a substitute for rayskin.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004669/7320/Clear-Coat-Kit.aspx
 
I'm sorry I neglected to mention what type. Yes, i use the 105 resin, and the 207 hardener. This combination is a 3 part epoxy to 1 part hardener mixture. The 207 hardener is a bit slower than the 209 or the other types, but the ratios will be different. 105 and 207 are the best for this application, and easiest.

It will take a couple of days to cure to full strength. When it's dry you couldn't get that handle off with a chainsaw....lol

West system sells the dispensing pumps too. They are a must.

Expensive, but good stuff. I make this style primarily, so I really didn't mind buying these big ol' cans for $80.

I'll have to try the kydex. Stingray is not cheap!
 
A word of caution to those who may try cord wrapping (hopefully!)...

Knifekits has a how to DVD featuring Kirby Lambert. It's a nice video, and he does things a bit differently than I do (many ways to skin this cat, and all are great) but I cannot recommend the Titebond epoxy he uses in the dvd.

I got my cord from knifekits, so I assume it's the same stuff he's using in their video. I bought my Titebond glue, and tried it on a cord wrapped piece of scrap, thank god. The stuff foams like you wouldn't believe. I did everything he did in the video to combat this foaming. I babysat the handle for hours it seemed, brushing the foam away. The end result was a rock hard handle....but the cord looked like it had been chewed with some juicy fruit gum. White crap all over the handle. Not attractive. I did everything he did too.

Good information in the video, but I do not recommend the epoxy that he uses for his handles.

In case you were wondering about how to cut the stingray. Lay your handle on the back fleshy part and draw around it. Use a strong pair of leather shears and just cut it out. Easy. Scissors will do, but those little nodes in the skin will nick the hell out of most cheapy scissors. I use a leather punch for any holes I need in the rayskin.
 
you are right, many ways to cord wrap in a japanese style, but I have also done braiding and fid work on handles, if you wet the paracord first when it dries after you are done it will shrink and tighten..... so the epoxy cannot be necessary depending on your tastes
 
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John L said:
After seeing the collections posted by Leu on Custom Knives forum I am very impressed with all the different style cord wraps. After soaking with epoxy, I believe, are they good to go in a kitchn for example? Does anyone know of a good tutorial on these different wraps? Thanks.
Click to expand...

damn, how'd i miss this thread? :D

I would suggest giving the handle a nice coating of maybe 2-3 coats (so the handle dries kinda shiny) if you want the wrap not to pick up any other kitchen type goop...blood, etc etc.
 
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