JB cold weld for guards?

[bowdude]

Hi all,

I am in the process of getting a guard stuck onto the blade, I apparently suck at silver soldering, and I heard that JB weld works as well.

Anyone use JB weld, and how does it hold up? I'm not too worried about the different color of the joint, the guard and blade are not the same color either.

TIA, Larry

 

[frogfish]

I've used JB and it seems to work great assuming the fit is reasonable the JB weld is a gray color and really doesn't show.

 

[psycho78]

visit Terry Primos' website. He has excellent tutorials, including one that involves solderless guards with JB weld.

 

[deker]

Here is a link to Terry's tutorial.

-d

 

[J. Keeton]

Here is a link to Terry's tutorial.

-d

That's a great tutorial.:thumbup:

 

[bowdude]

Sweet, thanks for the tips folks! I'll give it a try, the guard to blade fit is pretty tight, so I'm pretty confident the JB won't show other than a very fine line.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

JB weld works,as long as the fit is right to start with.When soldering guards,the fit needs to be tight,clean,and don't overheat the joint.Learning to solder is a skill you will need to know,so don't give up on practicing.The steps are:
1) Make a proper fitting joint.
2) Clean everything with solvent,then again with denatured alcohol.If it isn't perfectly clean, the solder won't flow right.
3) Use the right flux and solder , and the right amount of it.A small amount to start with, and a little more when the metal comes up to temperature.
4) Heat from the direction you want the solder to flow. If you don't want it all over the blade, then heat from the tang and apply the solder from the blade side of the guard.Apply heat gently,you are soldering - not welding.It does not make the solder flow better to use a big flame and get the metal real hot.That will make the flux burn and nothing will flow.As the joint heats up touch the solder to the joint.When it starts to flow heat just a LITTLE more and remove the heat.The solder will flow for 10-30 seconds at this point.Add a little heat as needed.Don't continue to heat the joint or it will get too hot!
5) DON'T heat the solder itself.That will oxidize it and it won't flow right.It will usually just bead up and sit there.
6) Apply solder SPARINGLY. The amount of solder most people use on a guard would do ten guards.More solder won't make it flow where it does not want to go because the joint is not right.Why pile it on to only have to scrape it off later.
7) Use a solder pick.Sharpen a piece of steel wire and put a simple wooden dowel handle on it. When the joint starts to flow,just slide the point along the joint and the solder will follow it in a beautiful straight line.
8) Clean off the excess flux immediately with water and then with solvent.It is corrosive and can cause pitting and rusting if not completely removed.
9) Remove the excess solder with a solder graver. Make one from brass. It is basically a small chisel that won't scratch the steel,but will slice the excess solder smooth and cleanly.
10) Don't blame the solder for a bad fitting job.Solder is not intended to fill gaps or make a weak joint strong.Spend some time making the joint snug before the solder, and the solder will do its job - which is to make the joint solid and water tight.
Stacy

 

[Will52100]

I still solder a few gaurds, mainly the loveless style pinned gaurds, but on hidden tange I almost exclusively use JB weld. Terry has a great tutorial on it. Good stuff, as long as you get a tight joint to keep that gray line from showing.

 

[Tom Militano]

Buy some atomized stainless steel from Brownell's and mix it with your JB Weld. It will look dark gray until you buff it, than it turns silver, like solder. I little goes a long way.

 

[McAhron]

Great tip Tom!

 

[bowdude]

That IS a good tip. I'll bust out the rifle bedding kit and see if I have any of that powdered stuff left.