JB Quick weld for handle scales?

Bigfattyt

Bigfattyt

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I was just wondering if anyone had used JB Quickweld to cement their handle scales on a full tang knife? I am not sure what color it is when hardened. I have a package, and was wondering (I have not bought the 2 ton epoxy yet).

what do you think will it ruin an otherwise crappy hand made knife? (maybe I will have to mix a bit up to see what color it dries)
 
The regular JB Weld should work although it's not what I use. I don't know about the quick setting stuff though. It might not give you enough time to work or maybe not as strong.
 
It dries a dark grey kind of color. More than likely it will probably show a thin line between the scales and the tang so if you want to limit that you might want to just use a clear epoxy.
 
thats what i use. i did a very nice drop point with a tapered tang and cocobolo scales with forged down wrought iron pins. i used that JB and love it. it looks just like the other JB. just clamp down your scale real good and make shure thay lay flat on the tang. coat the tang, scales, pins and pin holes. use 2 or 3 C clamps and clamp it good. wipe of the excess
 
It would work and would be plenty strong, but would leave a visible line, because it's not clear.
 
JB Weld is best for metal-to-metal applications. Some smiths use it instead of solder to put guards on.

For bedding metal to wood, use acraglas.


Or just some Devcon 2-ton epoxy.
 
I use the JB Kwik when I am doing a full tang with file work on the tang. It fills up the file work and polishes up well. It is a metal to metal glue, but I tried it on some wood and the wood broke before the glue. It gives you plenty of time if you get everything set up and take a practice run. For most other applications I use epoxy
 
im with ib2v4u,

i have not got a line because a make shure everything is flat and i clamp tight. i used it on cocobolo and has been good. but then agen i dont rely on glue or epoxy to hold handles on, i trust pins.the glue keeps the pins in and the handle is strong. right now im in love with cord wraped handles for heavy use knives. keep an eye out today in the for sale page :D.
 
if you do get a line use that to your advantage and dye it say red and call it cool :)

daniel is spot on about using it for guards. but it needs to be a tight fit so it wont show the JB.
 
When I first started I used to clamp really tight. I found that I was squeezing all (or most) of the epoxy out and actually preventing a good bond. Now days, I only use spring clamps for fixing scales to the tang. If everything is flat, you won't see a glue line. You can also use spacer material and epoxy colorant the same color as the spacer.

Just my 2¢ worth...

Craig
 
The JB Quick is strong enough, but is not clear, as the other folks said.
Another suggestion is the stuff I use....Loctite 626 and Loctite 7649...
I've broken handle slabs trying to remove them after that adhesive set up.
 
Yes, many people think tighter is better. In clamping scales, you only want the scales held in place for the glue to dry. Clamp too tight and you may end up with no glue in the joint. I never use screw clamps, only spring clamps,which I have in several strengths.
Stacy
 
Most epoxies have a minimum and maximum effective film thickness for maximum holding. This info is available in the technical specification documents on the major manufacturers' websites.
 
John, are these two products clear? How much work time do they give you and what do you use for clean up? Thanks
 
The handle scales are light green g-11. I will mix some and see if I think the color will go well. I started a bit of rough file work on the spine, so it might look good with a colored bonding agent. Red would look good with the green I think.

I think I will use twine to wrap the handle while it sets.
 
I have used it for the Pins but used Super Glue on the Handles before setting the pins in place. also with the superglue clamping the scales down just enough to remove gaps.
 
I used it to attach the bolsters on a tanto - works great. It was on the recommendation of a maker here. If you make the bonding surface of the scale slightly concave (I just used a dremel with a sanding drum), it will allow you to clamp it down without squeezing the epoxy out and will minimize the line. Electrical tape makes a good clamp as well: epoxy doesn't stick to it and its stretchiness allows you to adjust the tension.
 
I use regular JB on my hidden tang crown antler knives, the little grey line actually looks good between the brass and the antler as long as everything is fit perfectly, if anything is at all less that flat it looks like c-rap, For scales I use devcon 2-ton clear epoxy

-page
 
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