JB Weld on guards

E

elementfe

Joined
May 3, 2008
Messages
1,436
I've read so many times that many fine bladesmiths seal their guards with JB, rather than solder.
I get why solder isn't ideal, but always wondered...why use something that makes a black line instead of a clear epoxy for a bedding/sealer?

I totally trust JB for its holding power, but put it aside a while back because AFAIK it only comes in black.
 
I use it for everything simply because it stays put up to 500F most epoxy's melt at between 180F and 225F I have never looked up the mechanical properties of ACRAGLAS
 
John is right even the Best Epoxies will let go at 350deg F
Just add some Epoxy die to turn it Black
 
The trick is to fit the guard so close there is not glue line. I apply the JB weld and then hammer on the guard and then clamp it to dry for good measure.

myoOwdE.jpg
 
Please forgive my off topic newbie question, but what operation requires high temps after the insulation of the finger guard?
 
Jesse17 said:
Please forgive my off topic newbie question, but what operation requires high temps after the insulation of the finger guard?
Click to expand...

hot cars in the summer, direct sunlight, and the drying cycle inside a dish washer
 
Since when is JB weld black? One tube is black the other white, when mixed in proper proportions it is grey. I used it many times for many reasons, its always dried to a grey/silver color. Clear epoxy on the other hand always looks black in a seam.
 
Thanks all for the replies, very good points. JB is indeed gray, and invisible in a proper joint- I was thinking of a very similar product, PC7, which I had great results with, but haven't used in years.
Interesting to note that according to West Systems product data, Gflex temporarily loses most of its structural abilities above 154f, If I understand the terms. I wouldn't have guessed that that temp would be so low!
How this affects a bolted or riveted knife handle is unclear.
I've been sort of abusing my daily use kitchen knives, not cleaning them right away and occasionally leaving them in water, and the Gflex appears to be golden, so far....course, they never go in the dishwasher....
 
Last edited:
it is much less noticeable than solder when properly.
 
jdm61 said:
it is much less noticeable than solder when properly.
Click to expand...

Yea, but I think that seam of solder at the joint looks so..... not sure what, but I've only solder a couple of guards and I was PROUD of them turning out good :)

Ken H>
 
The chefs I work for put a pretty high premium on the front of the bolster being sealed so food spooge doesn't get in or out, so ya have to use something if it's a working knife.
I have not had consistently good results with Stay-brite on non-stainless blades...though after reading Loveless' book and watching the video early in the learning curve, I assumed every good blade should be soldered, but gave it up after cooking a few that wouldn't flow, and getting flustrated.
 
I've heard makers say they use JB Weld on "Press Fit" guards as a moister barrier. You know, to prevent hidden rust under the guard. I use it for that too.

I use the regular JB Weld to affix and seal all of my guards, not the Kwick Set stuff. I can afford to wait overnight while the guard cures to my press fit tang.

In order to get rid of that seam of grayish goop, get a soft or extra soft toothbrush. Use acetone and the soft toothbrush bristles to clean up that line. You will have to keep after it though ... As the JB Weld sets ... the line seems to keep oozing. Trust me, it will stop. And if you have taken care too make a nice tight fit on your guard and tang, it will stop sooner than on a sloppy fit.

Another trick is to use a thin section of flexible foam to get into that tight seam and wipe out the exess JB Weld. You can usually find this "throw away" stuff as packaging material in all sorts of stuff. I get mine from my buddies who run CNC Machines. Each insert is pacakeged inside of a plastic case with soft foam. They just save the cases for me. I also use the cases to mix my G- Flex Epoxie.
 
An interesting thing I learned after years of using acetone to clean up epoxy is that denatured alcohol is the best solvent/cleaner. I was surprised at how easily and quickly it removed uncured resin.
 
Code: 
An interesting thing I learned after years of using acetone to clean up epoxy is that denatured alcohol is the best solvent/cleaner. I was surprised at how easily and quickly it removed uncured resin.


I use denatured alcoholt too Stacey ... Especially when I leave the lid off of my acetone and evaporate all of it :(
 
I have tried all types of things to clean JB Weld off the front of the guard and ricasso. The best method that I have found so far is to use small patches of an old cotton T-Shirt saturated with WD-40. Use plenty of WD-40, go slow and change the patches often.

It will have no effect on the JB Weld setting. That stuff doesn't care what you clean it up with.
 
Robert Dark said:
I have tried all types of things to clean JB Weld off the front of the guard and ricasso. The best method that I have found so far is to use small patches of an old cotton T-Shirt saturated with WD-40. Use plenty of WD-40, go slow and change the patches often.

It will have no effect on the JB Weld setting. That stuff doesn't care what you clean it up with.
Click to expand...
I alos setttled on WD-40 as the stuff that works best.
 
I have a kitchen custom and there is a small gap in the guard. No reason I can't seal it myself, right? I'm fairly comfortable with the idea, just thought I'd ask since the topic is up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top