JBS Camp Knife

I think he heans jimping which is the filed grooves in the spine.....unless he means that jumping-jack dance he does his shirt off :eek:
 
JBS TOOLMAKER said:
The amount of material behind the edge depends on what the tool is made for. This one is made and will handle the abuse of chopping, .030 + behind the edge. My skinners have .020 behind the edge. I have seen many flat ground knives way thinner than that.
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Yep, the thickness will depend on the desired use, but just something to consider: say you're carrying a knife ground like yours above, and you get into a situation where whatever you are using the knife for is going to damage the steel up the blade until it gets about double the thickness. A flat ground or convex ground edge will more quickly get to the thickened steel, while the hollow ground knife is going to get damaged quite a bit higher until you get to the thicker part of the blade. Kind of hard to explain, and it's only an issue when it's an issue, the rest of the time it's just extra steel to carry:p But, in a knife designed to be used hard, I'd prefer to err on the side of stout.



JBS TOOLMAKER said:
I personaly have'nt seen a hollow ground blade bind in anything can you give me an example?
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Something quick and easy to try-cheese:D I have a heck of a time cutting sharp cheddar with a hollow-ground knife (actually, its getting the slice off of the blade that's such a PITA), compared to any other. Of course, a thick convex breaks the cheese more than anything, but there's the trade-off;) Soft green wood is something else to try it in:thumbup:


And though I forgot to mention it before, I really like your knife:D I would probably want it as a flat grind, but I sure wouldn't be ashamed to carry it like it is! Fit and finish look top-notch, I'm a sucker for clip-points, and it is very well thought out overall. Regarding the thong holes, I think one may look better, but you're right that they are fairly different and having both may be a selling point-or at least worth keeping as an option:thumbup:
 
Very nice.I would like to see thinner stock as an option and stainless fittings.

As far as edge geometry I like something strong enough for reasonable hard use but thin enough to sharpen and slice easily.I might split some fatwood but I'm not going to dig holes or chop rocks with my blade.
 
Very lovely knife JBS!

As others have said I'd prefer a convex grind, Or a full flat.

That said why did you choose D2? Just wondering what the benefits of this material are.
 
Walter, the cheese example is a good point, Your right during a slicing action the hollow ground blade would be more likely to snag. I guess that's why you don't see many hollow grinds at cutting competitions.
To answer some other questions. I am a custom maker so I will make this knife with the customers choice of materials. Hollow ground or flatground. D-2 is my primary choice of blade steel, if someone wants stainless it's extra because I send all my stainless out for heattreat. All tool steels are done by me.The price for a knife like the one in the picture will be 250.00 with the customers choice of sheath.My contact info is on my website and I have pictures of other work in my album on this site. Thanks for all the input. Keep it coming.
 
Just checked out your site and gallery:thumbup: Nice work, I really dig your kiridashis:D It's all great stuff, though!
 
Very classy looking, I like it alot. I don't think 1/4" is really necessary for this kind of blade though, for a beater I would but this knife just looks too nice to be hammering on. A scandi grind on .125" stock and these knives would be perfect.
 
That is a gorgeous looking knife! I like the looks of the knife, very sturdy looking but it doesn't really say bushcraft to me. When Im looking at it I see a hunting knife. It's probably the integral style and the handle design, what appears to be a clip point and the guard. The design will Im sure work fine as a bushcraft/camp knife.

The tang taper is a great choice. Overall blade length is good, 5 inch is perfect in my opinion and your's is right there.

What I personally would prefer designwise in a bushcraft & camp knife is slightly thinner blade, 3/16 if you're looking for robustness. 1/4 is just unnecessarily heavy duty although your grind goes almost to spine.
The hollow grind is fine with me assuming it's not very concave in shape.
I would however thin down the edge shoulder, in my experience a 0.015 - 0.020 inches makes a good multipurpose edge with great cutting power. I would ask you to convex it though id it was for me, it does improve double bevel cutting and splitting performance with wood.
Finally the handle might benefit from a rounder cross sectional profile, it looks a little boxy judging by the pictures. Without handling your knife is hard to say how it would work in a long work session but bushcraft knives should have a really comfortable handle that indexes well with bare hands as well as gloves.

I hope I didn't come out too harsh. It really looks great! The owner gets a great knife!
 
PatriotDan said:
That is a gorgeous looking knife! I like the looks of the knife, very sturdy looking but it doesn't really say bushcraft to me. When Im looking at it I see a hunting knife. It's probably the integral style and the handle design, what appears to be a clip point and the guard. The design will Im sure work fine as a bushcraft/camp knife.

The tang taper is a great choice. Overall blade length is good, 5 inch is perfect in my opinion and your's is right there.

What I personally would prefer designwise in a bushcraft & camp knife is slightly thinner blade, 3/16 if you're looking for robustness. 1/4 is just unnecessarily heavy duty although your grind goes almost to spine.
The hollow grind is fine with me assuming it's not very concave in shape.
I would however thin down the edge shoulder, in my experience a 0.015 - 0.020 inches makes a good multipurpose edge with great cutting power. I would ask you to convex it though id it was for me, it does improve double bevel cutting and splitting performance with wood.
Finally the handle might benefit from a rounder cross sectional profile, it looks a little boxy judging by the pictures. Without handling your knife is hard to say how it would work in a long work session but bushcraft knives should have a really comfortable handle that indexes well with bare hands as well as gloves.

I hope I didn't come out too harsh. It really looks great! The owner gets a great knife!
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Your comments and opinions are very welcome. This is what I want, feedback good or bad.As I said this is a prototype. Blade grind, thickness, blade material is all up to the customer.I made this one from 1/4" because I am testing/abusing it. This one as with most of my prototypes are not for sale. Sometimes I give them to close friends.The handle is very comfortable even with heavy gloves.My hollow grinds are carried back so there is about 3/4" to 7/8" of .030" material befor it becomes concave.The edge on this one is flat or stone sharpened, 12.5 degrees. One of the test I have done so far is batoning through a 2 x 4 across the grain.( the 4" way) No damage to the knife or the edge.
 
JBS TOOLMAKER said:
Your comments and opinions are very welcome. This is what I want, feedback good or bad.As I said this is a prototype. Blade grind, thickness, blade material is all up to the customer.I made this one from 1/4" because I am testing/abusing it. This one as with most of my prototypes are not for sale. Sometimes I give them to close friends.The handle is very comfortable even with heavy gloves.My hollow grinds are carried back so there is about 3/4" to 7/8" of .030" material befor it becomes concave.The edge on this one is flat or stone sharpened, 12.5 degrees. One of the test I have done so far is batoning through a 2 x 4 across the grain.( the 4" way) No damage to the knife or the edge.
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Have you considered a passaround? I'd LOVE to participate!
 
Big Mike said:
Very nice Loveless Style knife. :thumbup: :cool: :thumbup:

I’d loose the jimpling and one of the lanyard tubes.

But that’s just me.


Very nice work. :thumbup: :thumbup:



Big Mike
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I like the lanyard holes the way they are. A choice of how to attach the paracord is something many makers ignore.
I also agree that for a camp/bushcraft knife, the hollow grind is the least attractive option.

The finish, fit and style of the blade though, is first class.
 
Mannlicher said:
I like the lanyard holes the way they are. A choice of how to attach the paracord is something many makers ignore.
I also agree that for a camp/bushcraft knife, the hollow grind is the least attractive option.

The finish, fit and style of the blade though, is first class.
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Im easy to work with.My designs and profiles are a platform. I will make any changes my customers prefer.
Thanks again to everyone for your kind words and constructive criticism. :thumbup:
 
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