Jeans turned handle blue.

Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
8
I have boker thorn with olive wood handles. It's a pricey for me so I only carry it on special occasions. I carried it yesterday while wearing a new pair of blue jeans. The dye in the jeans left a blue tint in the wood, mostly on the edges. Does anyone know how to either remove the blue dye from the wood or know of somewhere I could buy replacement scales? I'm also open to the thought of dying the wood darker to hide the stains but I know nothing about olive wood. Any help will be much appreciated.
 
Try laundry detergent, should be superficial, take note to see if the handle is absorbing water-most likely it shouldn't if they were properly stabilized, if they do, let dry and rub some mineral oil onto it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Never use mineral oil on wood!
You can mix up some 25% bleach solution and wipe it on the handles with a Q tip.
Immediately wipe the handles down with a wet cloth afterwards. This should remove the stain.
Another way is to sand the wood down. 400 grit wet/dry paper (used dry) should work. Then, buff the handles with 0000 steel wool.
Apply paste wax or neutral paste shoe polish to seal.
 
Might be wrong but my understanding is mineral oil stays fluid and never conjeals or sets up, never drys.
Once it soaks into raw wood, it's there forever in a liquid state, swelling the wood fibers and weakening them.
I imagine it could also desolve sealants like wax, laquer, varnish, tung oil, etc.
 
JPM2 is correct.
The only oils that should be used on wood are drying oils like boiled linseed, tung, etc.
 
Might be wrong but my understanding is mineral oil stays fluid and never conjeals or sets up, never drys.
Once it soaks into raw wood, it's there forever in a liquid state, swelling the wood fibers and weakening them.
I imagine it could also desolve sealants like wax, laquer, varnish, tung oil, etc.

Thanks for that info, for stabilized wood the grains are pressure treated with infused resin or epoxy so this should not be a concern
 
Correct, but there is still no reason to oil stabilized wood. Olive wood does not need stabilizing.
Paste wax.
 
Might be wrong but my understanding is mineral oil stays fluid and never conjeals or sets up, never drys.
Once it soaks into raw wood, it's there forever in a liquid state, swelling the wood fibers and weakening them.
I imagine it could also desolve sealants like wax, laquer, varnish, tung oil, etc.

I've never seen this happen, and I've often used a light wipe of mineral oil on wood-handled knives, maybe a couple or three times a year at most. A few weeks go by, and they're as dry as ever again. No swelling, no weakening, no nothing. I think the supposition that it damages wood is WAY overplayed, and ignores the fact it's been used for decades as a conditioner, polish and protectant of wood, either by itself or as a part of products made for such uses. If it had done any damage in that context, I think we'd have known about it by now, and such products would long since have been driven from the market.

Consider that many treatments made specifically for wood are almost entirely mineral oil as their base. So-called 'lemon oil' for furniture is an example of this, with at least some products containing 90% or more mineral oil, and a tiny bit of actual lemon oil. Many swear by it for wood handles on knives and other things, and it's what I've been using most recently on some of my knives.

And pure mineral oil won't dissolve anything; it's completely inert, and sometimes used as a preservative because it doesn't break down anything (this is why it can't damage wood by itself). Other mixes of mineral oil products might include petroleum solvents to thin the oil for penetration; the petroleum solvent is the potential problem there, and not the mineral oil itself. I'd bet this is the basis for much of the fear of mineral oil used for wood; probably a mis-application of other petroleum solvent-bearing products that weren't made for such use in the first place.

I also use mineral oil-based lotion for my hands pretty regularly. Only takes a couple or three hours for any trace of it to completely dry up (in the desert southwest where I am), and it's time to reapply it again. It's just not that persistent about hanging around as long as some might assume it does.


David
 
Last edited:
Well now that some people are saying not to use mineral oil I'm starting to question the detergent. Does anyone have any input on that?
 
It's best to inquire this with Boker and find out if their wood handles are stabilized or not. Olive wood is a dense grain hard wood and it's debatable that this and other hardwood have the need for stabilization. I just prefer stabilized wood handles as they are maintenance free


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've never seen this happen, and I've often used a light wipe of mineral oil on wood-handled knives, maybe a couple or three times a year at most. A few weeks go by, and they're as dry as ever again. No swelling, no weakening, no nothing. I think the supposition that it damages wood is WAY overplayed, and ignores the fact it's been used for decades as a conditioner, polish and protectant of wood, either by itself or as a part of products made for such uses. If it had done any damage in that context, I think we'd have known about it by now, and such products would long since have been driven from the market.

Consider that many treatments made specifically for wood are almost entirely mineral oil as their base. So-called 'lemon oil' for furniture is an example of this, with at least some products containing 90% or more mineral oil, and a tiny bit of actual lemon oil. Many swear by it for wood handles on knives and other things, and it's what I've been using most recently on some of my knives.

And pure mineral oil won't dissolve anything; it's completely inert, and sometimes used as a preservative because it doesn't break down anything (this is why it can't damage wood by itself). Other mixes of mineral oil products might include petroleum solvents to thin the oil for penetration; the petroleum solvent is the potential problem there, and not the mineral oil itself. I'd bet this is the basis for much of the fear of mineral oil used for wood; probably a mis-application of other petroleum solvent-bearing products that weren't made for such use in the first place.

I also use mineral oil-based lotion for my hands pretty regularly. Only takes a couple or three hours for any trace of it to completely dry up (in the desert southwest where I am), and it's time to reapply it again. It's just not that persistent about hanging around as long as some might assume it does.


David

Yeah I was just theorizing with no actual experience.
But it does make sense to me if wood fibers absorb anything, they will swell and weaken but, seems like this would only apply to a wood that the mineral oil would soak in to.
Naturally oily dense woods like olive, cocobola and others probably wouldn't absorb anything, thus not affected. Same with stabilized ones. But this brings up the question as why use it if it doesn't do anything? - or does it.

As for it being inert, does that mean it won't mix with any other substance?

Personally I use rubbing alcohol to clean and remove the outer layer of oil in the wood, let completely dry, them tung oil to seal back up. Might try Bill's suggestion of 25% bleach next time.
 
I've been working wood for over 60 years and worked as a furniture refinisher for 40. Using mineral oil (lemon oil) on furniture only
works if the wood has a hard finish (lacquer, shellac), and it just sits on the surface and collects dust. If the wood is cleaned
up with very fine sandpaper or solvent, using a light coat of tung oil, waterlox, will seal the surface. Contrary to some
information, tung oil varnish does penetrate, oxidizes, and hardens. Olive wood is oily to begin with so the tung oil will help to seal the wood.
Wash your jeans!;)
 
Yeah I was just theorizing with no actual experience.
But it does make sense to me if wood fibers absorb anything, they will swell and weaken but, seems like this would only apply to a wood that the mineral oil would soak in to.
Naturally oily dense woods like olive, cocobola and others probably wouldn't absorb anything, thus not affected. Same with stabilized ones. But this brings up the question as why use it if it doesn't do anything? - or does it.

As for it being inert, does that mean it won't mix with any other substance?

Personally I use rubbing alcohol to clean and remove the outer layer of oil in the wood, let completely dry, them tung oil to seal back up. Might try Bill's suggestion of 25% bleach next time.

I've never understood, or even believed, the premise that absorption of anything liquid into wood inherently weakens it (depending on the specific liquid, obviously). After all, when the wood was still alive and at it's healthiest, it's pores & grain were already holding moisture and/or oils of some kind; and the wood was likely at it's strongest under those healthy conditions.

Water can indirectly ruin wood eventually by dry-rotting, because it fosters the growth of fungi which damages (eats) the wood fiber and therefore weakens it. It's not because the water by itself did any damage, but the biological aftereffects of continuous exposure to water and oxygen is what ruins it. By contrast, mineral oil won't foster such growth of fungi, bacteria or anything else, because it's chemically inert and therefore has no mechanism by which to ruin or weaken the wood. Think of all the kitchenware and utensils like wooden salad bowls & tongs, wooden spoons, cutting boards, etc., that actually depend on the use of food-safe mineral oil to keep them non-absorbent of food contaminants and in good shape after repeated washing over years or decades of time. Makes it kind of obvious it's not doing any damage, and in fact is helping to prevent it.

The inertness of mineral oil is what makes it non-reactive (chemically) with any substance. That's at least part of the basis behind it's use as a preservative for a couple of reasons: because it's absorption into porous material can prevent other harmful liquids (like water) from being absorbed, and because it can also protect a material from oxidation as well. Mineral oil has sometimes even been used as a suspension for medicines for these reasons. The inertness of mineral oil is also why it works as a laxative without toxicity by ingestion, because the body can't absorb it (due to it's inherent non-reactivity), and just passes it on.

The only justifiable gripes I've heard or read of, about mineral oil used on wood, are that it's sometimes incompatible with other wood finishes (like the 'drying oil' finishes previously mentioned, for example). That only means that with some finished wood, mineral oil may not do anything to preserve or protect it, because it can't be properly absorbed by the finished wood (because the finish has sealed it) and just remains at the surface and might leave a messy/gummy surface appearance if applied too often and not cleaned off. Or the flipside, on a piece that's previously been treated with mineral oil only, some other finishes can't properly be absorbed or cured because of the mineral oil's presence in the wood. Even then, it's still doing absolutely nothing to weaken the wood either; it's just a cosmetic issue.


David
 
Ask any gun collector about oil-soaked wood. Gun oils are mineral oil.
If anything is absorbed into wood, it will swell the wood-water included. Unless whatever is absorbed hardens, it softens the wood.
All I can tell you is that among the thousands of knives that I have repaired, I have seen handles that were damaged by oil. How MUCH oil was put on those handles over the years, I don't know.
Obviously, a little bit shouldn't hurt the wood. Remember, knife handles are usually very thin, so it doesn't take much oil to soak them.
Washing kitchen implements would remove the surface oil, and I would suspect it would need replacing.
I'm no expert on utensils, cutting boards and countertops-so I'm only guessing and theorizing about them.
But I do know a thing or two about knives and guns and I don't recommend treating wood handles with mineral oil.
Ideally, woods used on knife handles are very dense, oily woods. These woods will not absorb oils.
 
BTW-
Stag is even more susceptible to absorption of oil. I have seen MANY old stag handled knives with ruined handles from oil. It softens and darkens stag, too.
 
Never use mineral oil on wood!
You can mix up some 25% bleach solution and wipe it on the handles with a Q tip.
Immediately wipe the handles down with a wet cloth afterwards. This should remove the stain.
Another way is to sand the wood down. 400 grit wet/dry paper (used dry) should work. Then, buff the handles with 0000 steel wool.
Apply paste wax or neutral paste shoe polish to seal.

regarding the text in bold.

I have noticed that when I wet sand with SiC sandpaper it sheds the abrasive slurry and seems to dirty the finish of the wood.
I haven't tried SiC sandpaper dry.

Would using it dry negate this effect that I have noticed since there wouldn't be a slurry, but just some dust?
 
regarding the text in bold.

I have noticed that when I wet sand with SiC sandpaper it sheds the abrasive slurry and seems to dirty the finish of the wood.
I haven't tried SiC sandpaper dry.

Would using it dry negate this effect that I have noticed since there wouldn't be a slurry, but just some dust?

Even dry, it will dirty the wood from the dust.
I don't use Sic sandpaper on wood for that reason.
 
Bill, David, jpm,

Thank you for explaining the details. I use baby oil on wood handle that gets washed with detergent like kitchen use situation. Washing it makes the surface dry. Rubbing a bit of baby oil helps bringing back the luster.

I'll use sparingly and keep these in mind.
 
Back
Top