Jersey Pattern Hanging Question

garry3 said:
Idaho Potatoes and white Supremacists. That's what we are known for. But in all honesty a couple more Californians on bicycles might send me postal. In fact the only reason I am not in jail right now is the a$$ had his son with him. It is just not cool to make a point(example) of a man with his son to witness it. It has also happened while I was hunting. They were very fortunate. Just to dumb to know it.
Don't get me started!
Oh and not all Californians are created equal. Just saying I didn't have them problems till the a$$ holes moved here.
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N Idaho has their share of problems caused by out-of -staters. I've learned to live with them by avoiding them at every opportunity and packing at all times. Too many gangs in Spokane for my taste.
 
The potato is an idea new to me but it does have merit. I also recommend placing the axe head on a solid stump. Between the one side being unheated and the stump the only adjustment should be where you strike your blows. I regularly use wood in one manner or another to straighten up forge work. Its more forgiving than a hammer or anvil at times and less damaging to the finish. I have a mallet made from a chunck of hickory and it is used often. Go slow and make the adjustment in stages. Its harder to move the steel back out from the center line so go slow. Making small adjustments allows you to sneak up on the final shape without over doing it. Please post your results.

Chris
 
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bbforstr said:
N Idaho has their share of problems caused by out-of -staters. I've learned to live with them by avoiding them at every opportunity and packing at all times. Too many gangs in Spokane for my taste.
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We have gangs down here also. But as far as I know they don't hunt or ride bicycles. I do know that they are not the best marksman(as a general rule).
 
In the Idaho that I knew and loved there were few people from beyond its borders, (which implies no nazis, an import), no bark beetle, and sockeye salmon running up the rivers in the late summer.

E.DB.
 
G-pig said:
If the lug is digging into the handle, maybe you need to make there be less handle in the problematic area?
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This is of course part of the problem. But removing material in the shape of the lug can be difficult. And removing material straight across doesn't look as good. On alternative is to use a coarse grit sanding disc on your angle grinder to carve out a circular area for the lug. It makes for a nice looking hang.

1-Plumb_Rockaway.jpg
 
Chris Montgomery said:
The potato is an idea new to me but it does have merit. I also recommend placing the axe head on a solid stump. Between the one side being unheated and the stump the only adjustment should be where you strike your blows. I regularly use wood in one manner or another to straighten up forge work. Its more forgiving than a hammer or anvil at times and less damaging to the finish. I have a mallet made from a chunck of hickory and it is used often. Go slow and make the adjustment in stages. Its harder to move the steel back out from the center line so go slow. Making small adjustments allows you to sneak up on the final shape without over doing it. Please post your results.

Chris
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That's excellent advice. I had planned on using an anvil, but using wood would be more forgiving. I'll definitely go slow. I've got a lot of time invested in this axe head. I don't want to end up with a paperweight. I've got a variety of hammers. It's probably best to start light and increase the hammer weight gradually. I'm going to use the potato advice posted previously. I'll also try to smooth out the offending lug. Hopefully I'll be able to post some pictures of large chips cut with this axe soon.

Thanks again for the advice. Hopefully I'll be able to return the favor one day.
 
I'm getting there. Got the handle and shoulder roughed to shape. With a little more finish work, I'll be ready to drive the wedge. I'll post more photos when it's done.

6dTGyto.jpg
 
That looks pretty good. I might take a little more off of that hump at the poll side of the haft.
 
Square_peg said:
That looks pretty good. I might take a little more off of that hump at the poll side of the haft.
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I'm kind of looking it over to decide what else needs work. I'll definitely take the rasp to it some more today. Do you use anti-freeze or Swell-Lock to swell the wedge when you drive it home?
 
bbforstr said:
Do you use anti-freeze or Swell-Lock to swell the wedge when you drive it home?
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No, never anti-freeze. That's propylene glycol, or worse - ethylene glycol. Swell-Lock is dipropylene glycol (DPG). Totally different stuff and non-toxic. Don't ever confuse the two. DPG is used as a base in many perfumes. It's harmless.
 
Square_peg said:
No, never anti-freeze. That's propylene glycol, or worse - ethylene glycol. Swell-Lock is dipropylene glycol (DPG). Totally different stuff and non-toxic. Don't ever confuse the two. DPG is used as a base in many perfumes. It's harmless.
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Don't the work the same? It's only toxic if you leave puddles of it. I know dogs are attracted to the smell.
 
I don't know if it works the same or not. Of course you're welcome to experiment with it. I just stick with DPG because that's what's in Swel-Lock and in DAP Wood Swell & Lock.
 
Square_peg said:
I don't know if it works the same or not. Of course you're welcome to experiment with it. I just stick with DPG because that's what's in Swel-Lock and in DAP Wood Swell & Lock.
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I'll see if they have any of the Dap product at the local hardware store. I haven't had problems with anti-freeze, on the one axe I used it on, but I haven't had problems with dry wedges either. I think the most important thing is to get the kerf depth correct.

I should be able to find some propylene glycol around here somewhere. Thanks for the advice. No use taking chances.
 
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