Joss's pack knife in progress

Back and forth, back and forth between those last few steps, until I get this-

joss226yl.jpg


Using a facing mill to mill the micarta slabs flat-

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After I get them milled, I like to do some hand-planing on the granite plate to make sure there will be a nearly invisible seam in the handle-

joss247dk.jpg


More later :)
 
Will-

The steel is W2, one of my favorite steels by far.

You cannot get a real accurate Rc reading on a surface that's not flat and parallel, so I don't know exactly what the Rc is. But I'm pretty confident the edge is around 60 and the spine is down around 47.

I've checked many of my clay hardened blades and the soft area of the ricasso is typically in the high 40's to low 50's.

:)

-Nick-
 
Nick,

Thanks for that info. W2 has been one of my favorites ever since I had a Tim Zowada W2 blade--takes a wonderful edge with plenty of strength and toughness.

I also really like that Rc range--60 at the edge and around 50 at the spine. I've found that spines left soft, especially sub-40 Rc, are prone to take a bend too easily for my taste. I like that 50 Rc very much for putting some spring into the spine but retaining good stiffness. 60 Rc hardness at the edge on W2 sounds perfect for that kind of knife, IMVHO.

You also take great pics! Impressive shop you've built there--appears very well outfitted.

Thanks again,
Will
 
Wow ho! This is looking great! I can't wait to strap that to my back pack.
 
More pics :)

Drawing the tang profile onto the inside of the micarta slab-

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Starting to mill out the slot for the tang. I use the mic and check the exact tang thickness. It's 0.190" thick, so I set the mill to take off 0.095"

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I get it close with the mill... but like most things in my shop, it comes back to hand-work to get it the way I really want it. Filing that last little bit out-

joss278qa.jpg


Checking the fit. BTW- If you're wondering why that hole is in the tang, it's for hanging the blade down into my molten salt bath as part of the heat-treat process. Normally it's only a 1/8" hole, but this one is a bit bigger-

joss280df.jpg


After milling/filing both halves, now I clamp them together loosely with a couple spring clamps to check the fit of the slabs as one piece-

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And this notion is taken directly from our local friend Terry Primos. Holding the handle by the end over the concrete floor. This is a tricky spot to find. If the tang slot is too tight of fit it will do this easily, but there will be a seem later as the halves aren't making contact with each other all the way around. Get it too loose, and quite obviously, it wouldn't hold the blade-

joss305po.jpg
 
I use two sacrificial indexing pins in the handle slabs. It forces them to come back together the way they're supposed to after the epoxy has been applied. Epoxy has a tendency to make the slabs slide around when you clamp them together.

After spending the time to get them to fit snug, you don't want them to go all over and not fit once the epoxy is cured.

joss316hj.jpg


Here's what the slabs look like, just about ready to become one piece for good-

joss325lk.jpg
 
Nick,

Great tutorial! You have shed some light on a couple different things I was questioning.

This is going to be one slick knife.
 
Thanks guys :)

I've gotten a little flack offline for putting a micarta guard and handle on this blade. While MY first choice would have been 416 and wood... I can understand Joss's wants on this knife, and I certainly don't hate the idea for the handle. If I hated it, I would have passed on the project.

It still will have the same attention to detail that I try to put into all my knives... whether a $400 using camp knife or a $$$$$$ dagger or bowie.

Jamie- If you've got any questions, you know I'd be more than happy to TRY and help you out. If nothing else, you can take what I tell you, do it exactly 180 degrees the opposite, and it should work!


Thanks!
-Nick-
 
In Nick & Joss' defense, I totally love the material choice, especially in light of the knife's intended role. As the proud owner and user of a Wheeler handled in the same material (stainless guard though) I can tell you without reservation that after Joss uses this knife for awhile it will become one of his most prized blades. The micarta will just help to ensure that it does so without any problems. It cleans up nicely, is very stable/durable and offers good grip. All key ingredients to a nice camp/trail knife.

Thanks for the offer on the info, bud. You know I wouldn't think twice about asking you a question. It's just that you answered a couple I didn't even know I had ;)
 
blademan 13 said:
In Nick & Joss' defense, I totally love the material choice, especially in light of the knife's intended role. As the proud owner and user of a Wheeler handled in the same material (stainless guard though) I can tell you without reservation that after Joss uses this knife for awhile it will become one of his most prized blades. The micarta will just help to ensure that it does so without any problems. It cleans up nicely, is very stable/durable and offers good grip. All key ingredients to a nice camp/trail knife.

Thanks for the offer on the info, bud. You know I wouldn't think twice about asking you a question. It's just that you answered a couple I didn't even know I had ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks my friend!!! :D

-Nick-
 
I don't see why the micarta guard should be the subject of any controversy. There are functional reasons for the choice and it is to be a functional using knife. It wouldn't be my choice, but it's not my knife (dammit!). Joss knows what he wants and why - I expect he's gonna love it.

Roger
 
Well, he did order it like over 2 years ago :eek:

Since there are several people "in the know" who seem to think I am one of, if not THE, most overpriced newer maker in the country... I suppose I'd sell them for $4,000 now. I wouldn't want to NOT live up to that new title and all :D

Roger, I'd charge you and Stephen that much, but it would work out to about $0.02 per hour ;) :D

Thanks again fellas! :)
-Nick-
 
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