Judging Temperature by Eye

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Dec 11, 2020
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I think I may have just solved a problem that I have, but I didn't know that I had it until heat treating samples.

The dilemma - my samples of O1 and 26c3 matched toughness and hardness curves that larrin published. I've done hundreds of both of these before sending samples (counting old files with 26c3, they are *very* similar both in snapped samples and resultant hardness and feel on he stones.

I think what I just found is that the color of 1084 (thus the temperature) when transitioning to nonmagnetic is lower than O1 and 26c3.

can anyone confirm that? I
think when I assume I"m doing subcritical cycles with 1084, which it probably doesn't gain much from, I'm actually quenching new grains in over and over. I tried that by heating 26c3 and files past critical and quenching each time in a cycle of three - the grain coarsens.

The tail end of what I do with 26c3 is heat it past the recommended furnace temp, but quickly and then quench. this might take 10 or 15 seconds, and I can't see observable grain growth.

With 1084, 10 second more of heating under my small scope even with no thermal cycles doubles the grain size.

I never considered that the color temperature of steel would be that much different when they're all pretty much plain - that is, what they look like when they change to nonmagnetic.

This may also help to solve the problem I mentioned below -wanting something that's in its tempering sweet spot for chisels (harder than knives - people don't complain about chisels that won't bend back and forth, they complain when the edges roll or chip, so the bias is to chase a little more strength than toughness).

I realize this isn't a popular thing - heat treat in forge with no attempt at any duration of temperature soaking, but would guess that there is some historical use of it (not recently) before thermocouples were available. And I've had a lot of 200 year old tools with good toughness and strength balance (think thin somewhat harder slicing knife - something that doesn't hold its burr much when sharpening).
 
Pictures of grain samples - to get scale, these pictures are of stock 0.1" thick.

After getting larrin's samples back, I was a little annoyed, but also in the back and forth of it thinking about why I'd expect to get good results without snapping samples and doing some routine testing, especially after snapping a whole lot of file steel and 26c3 and O1 in offcuts - maybe 20 of them just to document differences.

But I was also sparked by Devin's suggestion yesterday - unwittingly, it's a fair statement on his part - that maybe the 26c3 and O1 results may have had some luck in them to go along with bad ones. He didn't say that, but I can see things through his lens - I'd probably assume the same {"prove it"}. 1095 i'm on the fence about ever having a woodworking use, but 1084 at moderate hardness is probably a lot like some of the early steel in laminated tools.

I think there's a bunch of room for improvement here in shrinking the grain a little bit more and then making some tools to see if their performance isn't disappointing. Especially if I can't ever find a 1% steel in various sizes with small amounts of chromium and vanadium.

single relatively low temperature fast quench:

Intentional short duration overheat - surprised just how much faster the grain grows than it does in 26c3 and O1 - what is preventing this in O1 and 26c3 without vanadium...is it chromium? Tungsten in O1?

Accidental slight overheat, followed by cycles just before nongmagnetic (perhaps these are being done while the steel is changing phase), and a fast temperature rise between the prior two:

Where there's room for improvement is #3, not getting over temp during cycles and accidentally establishing new grains, but I have some experimenting to do.

I have no clue what the snapped versions that I sent for testing may have looked like, but they must've been very coarse in 1084 and a little coarse in 1095.
 
Sorry about the coarse silvery background - that's actually the paint/finish - like metallic silver - on my laptop.
 
Nobody is answering this thread because this is not the way to get a superior heat treatment.

You will probably argue with me about this. This type of thread comes up every few months and the OP gets frustrated because we just won’t listen or understand what he is saying.

It is impossible to get consistent results using a forge to heat treat. Temperature control is the most important thing in heat treating and you can not get good control with a forge.

I’ve never seen a maker that has a furnace or a salt pot switch and go back to using a forge.

It’s good that you are trying to perfect your heat treating and doing some experiments and testing. Rapid over heating of any alloy is not the way to better heat treating.

If you insist on using a forge, build a barrel forge with a small burner and a small exhaust fitted with a thermocouple. Hang the blade or chisel from the top.

The best thing to do is to sell everything you can and buy a quality furnace. This way you can control your temperatures and learn what you are doing. You can also move to higher alloy steels. You need to try 52100, A2, AEBL, ApexUltra, and maybe maxamet etc…

Lots of good steel out there. Find out which one is best for you.

Makers seem to neglect proper heat treating.

It’s not good to make and sell products that won’t perform as expected.

I’ve seen lots of stuff over my nearly 45 years making knives and poor heat treating is a common problem.

Hoss
 
Hi, Devin - actually, I think that someone working by eye is going to have to take what they can get and be satisfied with it. If the result isn't as good as a furnace or it's as good with very limited alloys, then they have to go with it or buy a furnace. I have no financial hurdle with buying a furnace, but I do have a two car garage and setting up yet another table in it (I already do woodworking in the shop) is a space consideration, but there's more underlying here.

I also don't have any real interest in selling anything, but there is a small problem in woodworking tools for makers (real makers, not hobbyists), which is making one off tools that need to be good. Those are folks who will not be buying a furnace, and I'm sure I will at some time. When someone makes a one-off tool, it's never going to be for sale, but what's advised and what the results are usually equal a poor outcome. One that I haven't experienced with O1 (I've experienced a couple of chippy irons with 1095 and then wrote off looking further at it until now).

I would imagine this is colored with something from the past - especially if someone watches TV or movies and wants to make metal bright yellow, hammer it like crazy and then reheat to a high temperature and plunge into motor oil or something. I'd call that role playing. It's not what I'm looking for, I'm looking for experience in some of this stuff and maybe there isn't much.

tools and knives are different - 52100 doesn't offer anything any of the other tool steels don't, which is probably why it was never used. A2 use sold in boutique given to beginners, but because heat treaters for boutique manufacturers won't do much O1 at this point, and few will do it in a sweet spot hardness for woodworking (about 61/62). One in England does - I think that's probably it.

So, that brings me back to the forge thing, and at this point, not with any intention to disprove that someone who doesn't care either way shouldn't buy a furnace. I have this whole idea about hobbies - this is a hobby of mine. If $2500 is a problem for a hobby, then maybe fishing is a better idea. I can pull a board out of a boule in woodworking and it'll be $1200 for a single board.

I'm very specifically asking about 1084 in this case. I like the experimenting - even if there's no use in the end, I'm OK with that - nothing is for sale and nothing will be for sale unless I have to change professions and get really hungry.

I experimented with what I asked here - cycling the large grain steel back with the same idea - reestablishing grain by heating it twice and letting it air cool, then thermal cycles at a lower color temp by eye. this is a learnable thing, but not teachable, I guess.

1084 middle sample above grain shrunk

Ultimately, I think I can do this well by eye. I don't know if anyone else would want to, but I'm coming to this place because this is where someone would know. It's not the place where users of my tools (it's nice to be able to give them to someone who will use them, even if they will take a pot shot about why I wouldn't charge for them or charge beyond material cost) would be.

In the end, I answered my own question here. What do I have to change. I need to see a lower color temperature for thermal cycles, and I need to shoot less past nonmagnetic than with 26c3 and for a shorter period of time.
 
Hi, Devin - actually, I think that someone working by eye is going to have to take what they can get and be satisfied with it. If the result isn't as good as a furnace or it's as good with very limited alloys, then they have to go with it or buy a furnace. I have no financial hurdle with buying a furnace, but I do have a two car garage and setting up yet another table in it (I already do woodworking in the shop) is a space consideration, but there's more underlying here.

I also don't have any real interest in selling anything, but there is a small problem in woodworking tools for makers (real makers, not hobbyists), which is making one off tools that need to be good. Those are folks who will not be buying a furnace, and I'm sure I will at some time. When someone makes a one-off tool, it's never going to be for sale, but what's advised and what the results are usually equal a poor outcome. One that I haven't experienced with O1 (I've experienced a couple of chippy irons with 1095 and then wrote off looking further at it until now).

I would imagine this is colored with something from the past - especially if someone watches TV or movies and wants to make metal bright yellow, hammer it like crazy and then reheat to a high temperature and plunge into motor oil or something. I'd call that role playing. It's not what I'm looking for, I'm looking for experience in some of this stuff and maybe there isn't much.

tools and knives are different - 52100 doesn't offer anything any of the other tool steels don't, which is probably why it was never used. A2 use sold in boutique given to beginners, but because heat treaters for boutique manufacturers won't do much O1 at this point, and few will do it in a sweet spot hardness for woodworking (about 61/62). One in England does - I think that's probably it.

So, that brings me back to the forge thing, and at this point, not with any intention to disprove that someone who doesn't care either way shouldn't buy a furnace. I have this whole idea about hobbies - this is a hobby of mine. If $2500 is a problem for a hobby, then maybe fishing is a better idea. I can pull a board out of a boule in woodworking and it'll be $1200 for a single board.

I'm very specifically asking about 1084 in this case. I like the experimenting - even if there's no use in the end, I'm OK with that - nothing is for sale and nothing will be for sale unless I have to change professions and get really hungry.

I experimented with what I asked here - cycling the large grain steel back with the same idea - reestablishing grain by heating it twice and letting it air cool, then thermal cycles at a lower color temp by eye. this is a learnable thing, but not teachable, I guess.

1084 middle sample above grain shrunk

Ultimately, I think I can do this well by eye. I don't know if anyone else would want to, but I'm coming to this place because this is where someone would know. It's not the place where users of my tools (it's nice to be able to give them to someone who will use them, even if they will take a pot shot about why I wouldn't charge for them or charge beyond material cost) would be.

In the end, I answered my own question here. What do I have to change. I need to see a lower color temperature for thermal cycles, and I need to shoot less past nonmagnetic than with 26c3 and for a shorter period of time.
Very predictable.

Hoss
 
Very predictable.

Hoss

I think there may be a perception of conflict of some sort here where there isn't any. the only thing that I was somewhat annoyed by was that I sent samples initially of two steels and perhaps it's assumed they were a fluke. At the same time, what would proving they weren't do?

Sometimes, there are rows like this in the world of hobby woodworking.

"I have some mouldings to replace and I want to learn to use moulding planes".

which may be followed by "nobody does that now. If you're going to do window sash or architectural trim, you'll never be able to get customers to pay you for that. buy a shaper".

The two groups end up in conflict and at some point, someone who does restoration work for a living may finally show up (this is a summary of an actual example) and mention that for restoration work, a shaper isn't that great and give an example where they may be called to do two sets of window sash and they can do it by hand for half of the cost of getting custom shaper patterns made to match a house's sash.

also, If I tell you I haven't got any interest in 52100 for woodworking, let alone something like maxamet, and I tell you why, but you're not using chisels or plane irons, there's just no chance of anything other than your dissatisfaction that I'm not abandoning what I'm doing.

what normally happens on forums? People agree with you and go away. Sometimes they do what you're suggesting, sometimes they don't. I understand your perspective. I understand what it's like to give good advice that may land where a different question is asked and feel like your advice is being ignored. I can't bridge the gap here because I'm searching for acceptable performance in something that's not knives, and I think I have no chance of explaining to most knife users that if you could have something like AEB-L at 62 hardness and 8 ft-lbs of toughness that it would make a much better woodworking tool than it would at 59 hardness and 40 foot pounds of toughness.

I've been down this road before with people who have come to me for tools because they've gone to a knife maker who wants to make them carving tools out of 5160. Carving tools and woodworking tools are more similar to razors than they are to what's become popular in knives.

I'm explaining why, not explaining that I think you're wrong or the advice is bad.

I was mostly pleased yesterday to have found so little effort involved in improving grain with 1084 - I thought I was really far off. If there happened to be any hobbyists here who have experience, I'd have been glad to hear from them. I did try to find an answer to whether or not 1084 and 26c3 become nonmagnetic at different temperatures. I could find the answer to the temperature for 1084, but a brief search found nothing with 26c3 other than austenitizing temps. A couple of additional iterations, and I can see that the color at the change (which I rely on) is different. I found what that looks like and corrected the sample above - that's the outcome I was looking for.
 
You’re not getting very many likes on your posts.

Maybe you should respond with an even longer post.

Hoss

That's definitely not one of my main goals, or any goal - I got jazzed up by getting sharon 50-100, which heat treats more easily than 1095 (or did, that's yet to be determined) and seeds carbides, which I wanted.

That spread to hoping to find 50-100 with vanadium - no dice, and then the comment about poor heat treat results came up and encouraged me to look at why i got poor results with two steels.

Interestingly, the fact that the hardness/toughness combination in my 26c3 samples is better than the chart on larrin's site - with no soak - is glossed over, and larrin is the one who did the testing. I get that some part of this is semi religious and there will be no objective discussion of that. it's sort of a thing when you don't know the landscape and the biases. I also think ultimately that someone with a furnance could see my results and figure out how to beat them with a furnace - maybe they already have.

I think I'm looking to do something nobody else really wants to do - and that's OK. I'm not selling anything and I'm not rooting against anyone selling anything.

I've got some other things to solve, and they'll give me a place to get samples tested in the long run and be able to get some older stuff XRFed - the last thing I need is to get testing results and have them start a spat or devolve into a contest for likes.
 
Hi, Devin - actually, I think that someone working by eye is going to have to take what they can get and be satisfied with it. If the result isn't as good as a furnace or it's as good with very limited alloys, then they have to go with it or buy a furnace.
Ok , let me tell you something .Some six or seven year ago I HT knives I make in HT oven of my friend .Not to many knives maybe 15 - 20 . Most was 52100 and some from 1095 and some unknown high carbon steel from circular saw for wood . After that I HT my knives in gas vertical forge .Stainlles tube inside and knife in tube .
By adjusting burner in forge /I use piece of 52100 steel in tube to watch color / I can swear that I get some damn good result .Almost or same as i get in HT oven .
What Iam traying to say to you is that heat treating knives in my friend HT oven HELP me are LOT to SEE color in steel and that help me to get same temperature/color in my gas oven .Hard to forget that color if you do that many times . So if you know someone with HT oven you can learn lot of things which will help you to do that in your forge .
Later I bought that HT oven from a friend , build another two HT oven and I am almost done with third HT oven which will use vacuum and neutral gas for HT stainless steel :)
 
Ok , let me tell you something .Some six or seven year ago I HT knives I make in HT oven of my friend .Not to many knives maybe 15 - 20 . Most was 52100 and some from 1095 and some unknown high carbon steel from circular saw for wood . After that I HT my knives in gas vertical forge .Stainlles tube inside and knife in tube .
By adjusting burner in forge /I use piece of 52100 steel in tube to watch color / I can swear that I get some damn good result .Almost or same as i get in HT oven .
What Iam traying to say to you is that heat treating knives in my friend HT oven HELP me are LOT to SEE color in steel and that help me to get same temperature/color in my gas oven .Hard to forget that color if you do that many times . So if you know someone with HT oven you can learn lot of things which will help you to do that in your forge .
Later I bought that HT oven from a friend , build another two HT oven and I am almost done with third HT oven which will use vacuum and neutral gas for HT stainless steel :)

Thanks - especially for the color comment. if I remain employed (23 years straight so far), I'll eventually have a furnace and a dewar. I've been trying to bother a woodworking tool company to use (try) AEB-L because they've been using A2 for eons - they have a competitor using what's probably XHP and I can better the chisels from both of them with 26c3 pretty easily. I saw larrin's page about it and getting hardness that'll be OK for woodworking tools (60 and below isn't going to cut it - that's the hardness of site tools). If larrin wasn't caked from end to end with work. if he wasn't as busy, I'd have never heard of him, though, either.

I'm guessing AEB-L isn't as dimensionally stable as A2, though. the companies who make the woodworking stuff don't charge much for it - the market won't tolerate it, and they're borderline insane about dimensional stability.

I learned to harden steel in a forge long before hearing about forged in fire, and the later seasons were the ones on amazon at the time. The overheating of the steel and early removal from the oil to finish in air....insane.

Then I saw the tail end of murray carter's performance on season one when it was added. A clinic in low temp work and I choked on my drink a little when one of the hosts suggested murray would have cracking problems. I don't know if that's ever been discussed on here, but an absolute display of time-limited skill like that doesn't draw in beginners because it doesn't fit the formulaic narrative (someone close to failure) and a clinical display seems boring. I was enormously impressed.

the focus is on the forging and welding - all of the yellow steel makes me nervous.
 
I’ve heat treated many blades in a forge, and I still do if the project is too big to fit into my oven. My advice is to stick with steel that can tolerate a wide temperature range and a short soak time like 8670.
 
You’re repeating yourself over and over. I wonder why no one is listening?

Hoss

hoss - I appreciate the help you've offered. I appreciate the suggestion on an alloy - it's something I can call uddeholm about and follow up on.

I'm guessing someone may know the answer to the original question, but nobody answered it. within a day or two, I'll know if I've solved the issue from a woodworking perspective (pushing the balance toward as much strength as possible, and enough toughness, vs. the other way around).

I'd appreciate a little less of the big timing stuff. It's really easy to put someone on ignore or not read their threads and not try to dictate when or what they say.
 
Here’s an article from knife steel nerds. Larrin Thomas was experimenting with forge heat treating.
80492-BB3-99-CD-4-BBF-8652-DA0-C88-BDAF46.jpg
 
It's less forgiving for someone heat treating in a forge and using good stock. that's for sure. I don't think that will change the narrative but I posted pictures of files (similar to 26c3) in another thread with more overshot in a very quick quench heat, the same as I do with 26c3.

1084 didn't tolerate it at all. 1095 tolerated it better, but not well.

I'm not surprised that larrin had trouble with it. Backtracking and shrinking the grain today as shown above in pictures, I brought back what was done just with about 10 seconds of overheating - something that's never really bothered 26c3 or O1. I shot the samples I sent to larrin of both to the same high temperature after borderline magnetic or submagnetic cycles.

I get what the idea is with 1084 being easy for beginners, but I think asking beginners to have that kind of an idea of going only just past nonmagnetic and quenching when they're going to be all thumbs is a big order.

I've found something essential for temperature control, other than training the eye for color - something that came in handy now as I've got a mental bookmark of the difference in look between 26c3 and 1084 - and that is when making knives or longer chisels to have a forge that's focused, hottest in the center and with relief on both ends so that a piece can be heated evenly. If the back end coolness isn't available to push through, of the far end starts to heat too quickly, there's no remedy.

I originally asked about a 1095CV because the point higher of hardness that it may get over 80crV would be valuable in a woodworking tool. I'll work up several samples of 1095 in the next week and see how much better it is, but I'd still rather have a 1095 with a little bit of vanadium in it for some forgiveness in the final heat. I can manage it reasonably well by eye learning what I've learned in the last couple of days, but a beginner ...again, how would they know what to look for.

One of the things that started this is that I am working in a bubble and I made a comment on larrin's video that there would be some easy changes to the setup to make heating smaller items easier. having relief behind a high intensity heat in the middle (instead of a muffle) with cool relief would eliminate accidentally creating hot spots that can't be stopped.

after getting good with the two smaller house made setups that I use - one for shorter items, one for longer (the long one is just a stainless semi exhaust section with refractory blanket ), I bought a good quality stainless two burner forge. It's unusable as far as temperature control goes - a dull unfocused heat.
 
Build a forge with a large internal volume - not a little farrier forge with burners directly blasting your blade - put a baffle tube in it that runs almost the full length of your forge, something like 70mm round stainless tube, you could probably get a piece for free from a muffler shop. Get a digital thermometer and two high temperature thermocouples. Use both thermocouples, one through each end of the baffle tube.
In use, adjust the burner venturi and/or gas regulator and/or your forge doors to get the temperature you want. With a good forge design and a bit of practice you can get quite precise and stable temperatures.
 
It's less forgiving for someone heat treating in a forge and using good stock. that's for sure. I don't think that will change the narrative but I posted pictures of files (similar to 26c3) in another thread with more overshot in a very quick quench heat, the same as I do with 26c3.

1084 didn't tolerate it at all. 1095 tolerated it better, but not well.

I'm not surprised that larrin had trouble with it. Backtracking and shrinking the grain today as shown above in pictures, I brought back what was done just with about 10 seconds of overheating - something that's never really bothered 26c3 or O1. I shot the samples I sent to larrin of both to the same high temperature after borderline magnetic or submagnetic cycles.

I get what the idea is with 1084 being easy for beginners, but I think asking beginners to have that kind of an idea of going only just past nonmagnetic and quenching when they're going to be all thumbs is a big order.

I've found something essential for temperature control, other than training the eye for color - something that came in handy now as I've got a mental bookmark of the difference in look between 26c3 and 1084 - and that is when making knives or longer chisels to have a forge that's focused, hottest in the center and with relief on both ends so that a piece can be heated evenly. If the back end coolness isn't available to push through, of the far end starts to heat too quickly, there's no remedy.

I originally asked about a 1095CV because the point higher of hardness that it may get over 80crV would be valuable in a woodworking tool. I'll work up several samples of 1095 in the next week and see how much better it is, but I'd still rather have a 1095 with a little bit of vanadium in it for some forgiveness in the final heat. I can manage it reasonably well by eye learning what I've learned in the last couple of days, but a beginner ...again, how would they know what to look for.

One of the things that started this is that I am working in a bubble and I made a comment on larrin's video that there would be some easy changes to the setup to make heating smaller items easier. having relief behind a high intensity heat in the middle (instead of a muffle) with cool relief would eliminate accidentally creating hot spots that can't be stopped.

after getting good with the two smaller house made setups that I use - one for shorter items, one for longer (the long one is just a stainless semi exhaust section with refractory blanket ), I bought a good quality stainless two burner forge. It's unusable as far as temperature control goes - a dull unfocused heat.
Do you even know "Who is Devin Thomas" ??
this guy giving you "Free advise" has made both "High carbon "what you are talking about" as well as founded the "Stainless Damascus world"
i think he might just have a few years more experience in proper heat treating than most /everyone here combined.. about 30 straight years non stop
Larrin Thomas is his SON..
he is telling you that you MIGHT be able to get a good Heat Treat using eyes/forge... BUT if you want it CONSISTANT use a heat treat oven .. so you don't have to question IF you got the correct temperature or not.. if you insist on working with in consistent temperatures how will you PERFECT your heat treat of any metal ??
but you choose to try to Argue/ Dismiss his advise to you ??
things like this are why "Everyone is a Expert" on youtube .. This is Jo Bob from Beaver Smash Forge i use a Torch to red hot my blade and dunk it in old cow piss .. it makes the best blade in the world..
Knowledge from a "Real Expert" is being given too you out of Kindness/ his desire to HELP YOU.. ignore /don't follow it (as you wish)
Buying/Building a Heat treat Oven is not that big of thing to guarantee a consistent Quality of heat treating.. Is it ??
 
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