Just finished a santoku

mccandmatt

mccandmatt

Joined
Oct 29, 2013
Messages
358
Just finished this santoku that I made formyself.
OAL 10 3/4"
Blade .094 1095 6 1/2" long
Handle Blue and Black G10 4 1/4" long

I have not cut anything yet with it. But I did convex bevels (not sure that was the right way of doing it)
Constructive criticism is greatly appreciated
Thanks,
Matt

2n067g3.jpg
 
The good thing about makin it for yourself,you get to see first hand how good it works.Use it for a bit then you be the judge.By the way it looks great.
Eddie
 
I'd say loan it to a chef for a week and they will give you the most informative feedback
 
fishface5 said:
I'd say loan it to a chef for a week and they will give you the most informative feedback
Click to expand...
Thats a great idea, thanks, I know just who I can lend it to.


I tested it out on some onions, carrots and potatoes, cuts great, nice and straight in either hand.
 
The basic shape is pretty good. There are a few tweaks needed.

Angle - For a working santoku, 15° ( 30° inclusive) is about right. 10° is too acute, and will chip out.

Some shape and construction critiques for the next one.
Do a FFG. Convex isn't the best grind on a santoku. You can convex the edge, but keep the main bevel as flat as possible.
Forget polished blades. A fine sanded finish of 400-800 grit is better. A fine scotch brite belt is perfect.
Straighten the edge out. It should be nearly a straight line, with the last 1/4 of the edge rising about 1/4". A curved edge won't chop worth a darn.
Round the front of the handle in a slight curve.
Un-blocky the handle cross section, and make it an oval or egg shape.
Two 1/4" or three 3/16" Corby bolts will be much better than two far spaced 1/8" pins.
 
bladsmth said:
The basic shape is pretty good. There are a few tweaks needed.

Angle - For a working santoku, 15° ( 30° inclusive) is about right. 10° is too acute, and will chip out.

Some shape and construction critiques for the next one.
Do a FFG. Convex isn't the best grind on a santoku. You can convex the edge, but keep the main bevel as flat as possible.
Forget polished blades. A fine sanded finish of 400-800 grit is better. A fine scotch brite belt is perfect.
Straighten the edge out. It should be nearly a straight line, with the last 1/4 of the edge rising about 1/4". A curved edge won't chop worth a darn.
Round the front of the handle in a slight curve.
Un-blocky the handle cross section, and make it an oval or egg shape.
Two 1/4" or three 3/16" Corby bolts will be much better than two far spaced 1/8" pins.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the critique Stacy that will help for the next one :D
 
If you're using a Lansky you are sharpening at 20° per side, or 40° inclusive. Far too obtuse for a kitchen knife in my opinion.

As a rule of thumb, I sharpen everything at 30º (15 per side) and go lower from there. The Lansky is capable of doing 17° per side. I'd definitely use that setting.
 
Strigamort said:
If you're using a Lansky you are sharpening at 20° per side, or 40° inclusive. Far too obtuse for a kitchen knife in my opinion.

As a rule of thumb, I sharpen everything at 30º (15 per side) and go lower from there. The Lansky is capable of doing 17° per side. I'd definitely use that setting.
Click to expand...

Wow I did not even think. In the past before I started making knives I just used a Smith's electronic sharpener for my non-kitchen cutters, and for my kitchen knives I just honed and/or stropped or had a professional do it (mostly before the holidays). But since I started making I decided I need to sharpen them myself. Now i feel like a knucklehead but atleast I learned something new, thanks!
 
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