Just got a folder with a M2 blade... now how???

T

Tetsusaiga

Joined
Aug 21, 2006
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483
OK guys, here's the story.

Bought a 710 that was custom fitted with an M2 blade by Chax (off the for sale forum). Anyone got any comments on Chax's work???

Problem is that the M2 is uncoated. Will this be a big problem cos I'm in Singapore, which is just 1 degree north of the equator. Its hot and humid and quite frequently wet all year round.

I'm just concerned if the blade will rust. Couple of questions.

1. What can I do cos I'm quite sure that I won't be able to find any sort of coating chemicals or materials here that I can DIY a coating with.

2. OK this may sound silly, but if all else fails, will a coat of black spray paint work?? of course I will mask off the edge first... told you it sounds silly...:o

3. Is it difficult to assemble and re-assemble the 710, specifically the axis lock by myself?

4. I can clean the outside of the blade that I can see periodically to prevent rusting, but what can I do about the part of the blade that hidden by the handle?

Thanks for your help guys...
 
Tetsusaiga said:
OK guys, here's the story.

Bought a 710 that was custom fitted with an M2 blade by Chax (off the for sale forum). Anyone got any comments on Chax's work???
Click to expand...

First let me say, you better have thought twice before you bought it.

Problem is that the M2 is uncoated. Will this be a big problem cos I'm in Singapore, which is just 1 degree north of the equator. Its hot and humid and quite frequently wet all year round.

I'm just concerned if the blade will rust. Couple of questions.

1. What can I do cos I'm quite sure that I won't be able to find any sort of coating chemicals or materials here that I can DIY a coating with.
Click to expand...

Get a patina that kind of oxidation protects your blade quite well. Consider a belt carry sheath to avoid sweat coming on the knife. Keep it clean and dry.

2. OK this may sound silly, but if all else fails, will a coat of black spray paint work?? of course I will mask off the edge first... told you it sounds silly...:o
Click to expand...
It really sound silly..:D

3. Is it difficult to assemble and re-assemble the 710, specifically the axis lock by myself?
Click to expand...
No, as long as you keep the axis bar together. There is a way to get the caps off, but you can clean the knife on every side without removing the caps off of the axis bar. Tight tolereances, so it should fit well. Tighten all screws after everything is put together. This customized knife will surely have no warranty anymore.

4. I can clean the outside of the blade that I can see periodically to prevent rusting, but what can I do about the part of the blade that hidden by the handle?
Click to expand...
Put some oil into it, that´s enough. You don´t need to put the knife apart but if you do, put a light film of oil or grease on every part, Steel liner (the side of the scales, not the inside where the blade rests), axis springs and blade.

Thanks for your help guys...
Click to expand...
 
I know nothing about chaxz work, but if you keep the M2 oiled it shouldn't be a probelm.

I really like the RustFree stuff that AG Russell sells.
 
Silicone, wax, or any kind of protective gun spray applied to the blade on a weekly basis will help. Using the blade on food stuff will compromise your choices, not only ingesting whatever noxious stuff you might have used, but also contact with animal and vegetable acids, along with any impromptu automotive battery maintenance that may come up.

I've had carbon steel pocket knives speckle in the cold of January simply because they condensed moisture on them coming in to a warm house. You may experience the same going from an air conditioned building to the outside.

Food grade silicone or a good hard wax will keep it cleaner, but don't get your hopes up it will remain stain free. Become one with the patina as an expression of your lifestyle. You could even cut up a lemon and enjoy watching it grow dark as a preventative finish - forcing the oxidation in a controlled manner - to prevent worse things happening later. Then treat it.

Carbon steel knives have that disadvantage, but generally cut well if the edge geometry is appropriate.
 
Hi tirod3 you were talking about treating it after the patina forms...treat it with what?

gun spray is definitely out of the question here, is there something thats more common? DIY stuff pretty rare in Singapore...



OK... anyone has experience with Chax's work? Specifically in the area of blades...

Blop's post has got me really worried....
 
M2 will rust, but it is a very good knife steel. I have a Benchmade from Chax with M2 blade, cannot remember the mod name but I have had a lot of problems with it. Blade play all directions. I don´t use it, never have.
 
Marine Tuff Cloth is the best anti-corrosion protection for steel that I've seen tested. You can do a search for it here. It wipes on with a cloth, then dries to a thin wax film.

If you're using the knife on food, mineral oil is not harmful to ingest.

BTW, I like the patina that develops on non-stainless blades, and I just let that protect them from rust.
 
Oh no... not expecting too much when I get the knife... from what swe has to say about Chax's work...
 
I second a Marine Tuff Cloth. It's a Tuff Cloth, but with extra protectants in it for marine environments. I don't live in a marine environment, but it gets pretty humid around here in the summer. I haven't had any rust problems with my BM710 M2, but it does have the black coating. I try to keep a mirror polish on the edge and bevel to help prevent rust.
 
Only seen Chax's work on his website. Over at Benchmade.com forum I have never read anyone bad mouth his work. Don't know personally though. No need to completely dissassemble the knife. Take out the pivot pin (need small torx set) and then you have great access to the knife to clean at will. The liners are stainless steel and with a minimum of light oiling or ren wax should never give you issue. As for the blade any light gun oil, marine tuf cloth, or ren wax should do fine. I bet this knife is a very nice product, if there is play in the blade it should be pretty easy to fix as the axis lock kind of self corrects itself as it wears. Let us know what you think of it when you get it.
 
I've used a regular Tuff Cloth on my 710HS and have never had any problem with rust. I have seen patina start to form on the edge in a couple of tiny spots. I don't view that as a negative.

With minimal care you won't have a problem.
 
Chax is an honorable man that does super work. You done good there. I don't think the guy that said you should have thought first about buying was saying that in reference to Chax so much as in reference to the steel for the blade. Just a guess but probably accurate. I don't recall anyone ever saying a bad word about Chax or his work.
STR
 
M2 is fairly stain resistant compared to regular low alloy high carbon steels. It's not stain resistant enough to be considered stainless by any stretch, but if you wipe the blade off at the end of the day with some oil then it won't be a problem at all. If you plan on using it in saltwater regularly there might be an issue, otherwise a minimum of care will keep it looking nice.
 
Camelia oil has worked well on katana for several centuries in wet and humid climes. It should be readily available in your area. Don't sweat it.
 
Thanks guys for all the replies.. very informative and reassuring.. will keep a lookout for all the stuff mentioned above and see which is most accessible to me...
 
My first comment didn´t considered Chads work. I don´t know anything about or from him.

I considered, that you were asking AFTER the buy. I´ve done this too, like buying an BM 806D2 and asking myself what the heck D2 may be...:rolleyes:

My point was, with your worries you should have better asked earlier even though i really don´t see any real problems with the knife and where you live.

Interesting, that the supermain part of my post considers rust prevention without much extra purchases and you just took a consideration i may have written. But never meant.
 
Hi Blop, your post was read and digested in its entirety and I'm thankful for your input, its just that I was quite concerned about Chax's work, that's why I was more prone to jumping on that comment more than anything else...
By the way how do you put a light film of oil or grease on every part, Steel liner (the side of the scales, not the inside where the blade rests)?

Isn't the scales flush with the liners? Is there space in between??

I would have asked earlier, its just that I was quite taken with an M2 BM so I just jumped on the first that came along and simply tried to ask questions later.. I was thinking, with the many good things people were saying about the M2, this couldn't be half bad... :D :D :D
 
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