Just got a folder with a M2 blade... now how???

The best way to protect a carbon steel blade from rust is to develop a patina. Simply dip the blade in a mild acid like vinegar and keep it there until you are satisfied with the shade to which it has darkened. Then rinse it in cold water, dry it, oil it, and just remember to clean it as soon as possible after use.

Drip oil around the pivot and flex it a bit. The oil will work its way in. Use a bit of cloth or a Q-Tip to oil the liners, although the liners are probably stainless, as most structural metal is. There should be no space between the liners and the scales, but if there is, drip a bit of oil in there, too.

I like food grade mineral oil, since it is entirely harmless if ingested, and works well as a lubricant and a protectant. But don't overdo it and end up catching lint and dirt in the oil.

I believe mineral oil is the base of camellia oil, with camellia essence added.
 
I have been taking an 806 to jogging. After some time i ´ve inspected the steel liners and noticed a little rust there between the scales and liners. Nothing horrifying, went away with a finger rub.

Grease fills the space between.

The blade (BT2 coated) at the pivot wasn´t effected.
 
M2 steels rusts like crazy... almost while you look at it. 1095 and O1 are worse... they will rust while look.

Good luck keeping a folder blade of M2 from rusting in a tropical climate. The area around the pivot will be the worst, try and keep it well oiled.
 
Grease or that Tuff cloth stuff at the scales, at the washers and int he pivot hole. Anything else is accessable to be cleaned.

Don´t expect a shiny blade, let it get gray and black.
 
With only 3.75- 4.50% of chromium content, M2 will definitely start to rust quickly if not attended to. Sentry Products' Tuff- Cloth works quite well. To get into the pivot area(s) use the companys Tuff Glide liquid in its small bottle needle applicator. This same liquid is used to "reactivate" the Tuff- Cloth after repeated uses.

N.
 
I once dipped my HI khukuri blade into vinegar and took it out about half an hour later. It looked like the blade rusted, so i prompted rubbed it down with fine grit sandpaper to a satin finish and oiled it and left it at that.

Next silly question, if I use vinegar to get it to develop a patina, how do I know where patina stops and rusting begins?

Also, can I oil the blade with baby oil, like Johnson's baby oil??? :D
 
Tetsusaiga, I mentioned this before... M2 and the tool steels will rust in Singapore, especially if not heat treated right. M2/D2 will develop rust spots, but if you examine your knives regularly, you can avoid it. Stainless is better for the local climate unless you oil your knives regularly. Whilst you can maintain fixed blades quite easily locally (I had an O1 blade which develop rust after using it in the kitchen a couple of times) by wiping down with oil, folders have all sorts of moving parts....you need to be careful there.

Chax is a nice guy - salt of the earth person. If you have any problems with your blade, he will surely fix it.

Johnson baby oil contains additives and fragrances, so yes it will protect your knife but it will also introduce these "contaminants" into your food should you use for knife for food prep. If you need some oil, contact me via email and I'll let you have some pure mineral oil - you don't need much. You've got to show me your knife collection though, lol!

BTW, if you are still looking for a tool steel blade, I know there was a post in another forum regarding a Bob Lum Seki Cut D2 folder looking for a new home. Those are really fine knives.
 
Hi Spyken, thanks for your offer... will definitely consider it once the M2 arrives and I have assessed the situation..

You want to see my knife collection..?? nothing to speak off man.. might not interest you at all..:)

My O1 Dankura is still holding up pretty well. I've got a BR and a Browning FDX knife in tool steel still alright.. of course these 2 are coated... but the exposed parts are still very ok...:)

Looks like I may have to periodically open up the knife to check the area around the pivot...

By the way.. where's the seki-cut?? can't find it in the Other forum...
 
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