Just got my Survive! Knives GSO in 20CV in, questions

S

Strong-Dog

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Mar 1, 2014
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435
First off, I took some pics but apparently cannot upload them directly from my desktop. Anyways, I just got this in today, and noticed that the plunge lines are somewhat off. Is this normal, and should I be concerned? Also, Has anyone had issues with rust under the micarta scales? Thanks
 
You might want to ask the maker. I don't think any knife should come new with rust under the scales though. Email Guy and include some pictures, he would be able to give you definitive answers, as opposed to a guessing game here. Also if you want to upload pictures, use imgur.com.
 
What model is your knife that you're having trouble with? Please feel free to drop us a line at workshop@surviveknives.com if you are having any sort of issues and we'll get you squared away ASAP. Please include your order number if you have it available and photos of your issue. Being a high chromium, high vanadium stainless steel, I've never heard of any rusting issues with CPM-20CV and we've done some pretty whacky testing here in the shop. All knife blades are quality checked for any defects, sharpened, wiped down, assembled and gone over one last time before being packaged up for delivery. Defects of any sort are extremely rare, especially with only 3 of us here in the shop doing work.

[video=youtube;831oJH6F6KE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=831oJH6F6KE&list=UUIYtKkRyIydodkUlljaPLtg&feature=share[/video]

[video=youtube;lNfkY0QHPm4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNfkY0QHPm4&list=UUIYtKkRyIydodkUlljaPLtg[/video]

Strong-Dog said:
First off, I took some pics but apparently cannot upload them directly from my desktop. Anyways, I just got this in today, and noticed that the plunge lines are somewhat off. Is this normal, and should I be concerned? Also, Has anyone had issues with rust under the micarta scales? Thanks
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Pictures please? Also I think a person with no intention to troll will first contact the manufacturer directly first and not make a BF account to post issues.
 
knife chop said:
Pictures please? Also I think a person with no intention to troll will first contact the manufacturer directly first and not make a BF account to post issues.
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Hw didnt make an account just to post issues. He had 63 posts before he made this post...which is more than you.
 
Guy and others, I thank you for your help but I was just asking if anyone had had issues, not saying there was rust! I apologize for the confusion, but it does go to show what a nice company you run. Crazyfingers, thanks for posting this, as I emailed survive knives earlier today but now it seems like that won't be necessary.

Guy, its not even an issue per say, I just noticed that my plunge lines were off a little and was just wondering if that is normal. Not even off by a lot, but I figured if these are in fact hand ground (which was the question I emailed) then I can understand. I will try again to upload pics tomorrow.

As for me being a troll, by all means if that's what you think its fine by me. But what would cause you to label someone with a few questions about a knife they just got a troll?
 
Thanks for the reply and the clarification. Our bevels are ground on a Berger flat grinder and produced in large quantities for efficiency. Aside from a few companies with custom machines, most all production knives are ground on either a Berger grinder or a Seipmann. The only blades I grind by hand are ones that I specifically mention as hand ground.

After being double disc ground to thickness, the blades are set up in the machine on a fixture plate, where the first profile side is set up and ground. It can take a while to get the profile and depth just right. After that, the second side is set up. Another fixture plate is made but that one is like a molded impression of the first side, to prevent the blade from twisting under the pressure of grinding the second side. This is a pretty time consuming process and takes some talented people to do it right, especially to hold a good saber grind. You must make sure the cutting edge thickness is held, keeping a very consistent grind depth, while also maintaining the bevel height for a straight looking saber grind. Lots of moving parts there...

When you say the plunge lines are off, how much are we talking? I usually catch mismatched blades while I'm sharpening. We have a pile of them in our 2nds bin that I'll need to clean up by hand later. Hopefully I'll find those photos when I arrive to work today and I can get you squared away.

Strong-Dog said:
Guy and others, I thank you for your help but I was just asking if anyone had had issues, not saying there was rust! I apologize for the confusion, but it does go to show what a nice company you run. Crazyfingers, thanks for posting this, as I emailed survive knives earlier today but now it seems like that won't be necessary.

Guy, its not even an issue per say, I just noticed that my plunge lines were off a little and was just wondering if that is normal. Not even off by a lot, but I figured if these are in fact hand ground (which was the question I emailed) then I can understand. I will try again to upload pics tomorrow.

As for me being a troll, by all means if that's what you think its fine by me. But what would cause you to label someone with a few questions about a knife they just got a troll?
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Strong-Dog what you may try to do is go set up a photo bucket Acc. www.photobucket.com its free and real easy to use. Ive also had the hardest time getting the site to up load photos too. I use photo bucket for my photos up load your photos there then copy the IMG link from your photo bucket then paste it in your post here then it will displays your photo. if you ned some help with please let me know.Chuck
 
Ok , I set up my account.

http://s145.photobucket.com/user/Strong-Dog/media/VIDEO0235_0000009540_zpsae665e63.jpg.html

My phone's camera sucks at close up shots, so I had to take a photo out of a video I made. Anyways, this is very hard to see in that photo. It's much more noticeable in real life, so I measured the difference between where the grind starts on each side and the right side starts about half of a mm before the left side does, maybe slightly less. Again, not at all a big deal, but just wondering if that is in spec. Thanks for the help guys. I'm probably just being nit-picky, but I'm curious.
 
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crazyfingers said:
Strong-Dog what you may try to do is go set up a photo bucket Acc. www.photobucket.com its free and real easy to use. Ive also had the hardest time getting the site to up load photos too. I use photo bucket for my photos up load your photos there then copy the IMG link from your photo bucket then paste it in your post here then it will displays your photo. if you ned some help with please let me know.Chuck
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Thanks!
 
I suppose that the grind might bother me, but after a few sharpenings, leaning more heavily to one side, you'd get it evened up in time.
 
My cutting edges are usually pretty darned centered. If I'm understanding this correctly Strong-Dog, what you're referring to is the slight difference in plunge radius leading into the cutting edge, when looking straight down at the grinding choil like in your photo there? I've enhanced it a bit, trying to understand what you're seeing that is giving you concern. If we are on the same page, you are talking a few thousandths Man...

VIDEO0235_0000009540_zpsae665e63.jpg

For further reference, here is a stack of finished blades, waiting for sharpening and assembly.

2014-03-09 15.30.58.jpg

I honestly don't see anything at all wrong or out of the ordinary with your blade but if you do, please feel free to return it for an exchange or full refund. This link will get you started: https://surviveknives.com/sales/guest/form/

PB Wilson said:
I suppose that the grind might bother me, but after a few sharpenings, leaning more heavily to one side, you'd get it evened up in time.
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Also, Has anyone had issues with rust under the micarta scales?
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I have not tried a knife in 20cv, but I have had rust problems under the handle of my gso 4.1 in m390. Since m390 and 20cv are nearly identical, I imagine that the steels would react in a similar manner.

The rough surface of the holes for the screws in particular were having problems. I don't really care if the knife has a "rough" look of a working blade, but I think that better finishing might help with corrosion. I live in a fairly humid environment, but I can't think of any other time that I have had a problem with a stainless blade.
 
survive-gear said:
My cutting edges are usually pretty darned centered. If I'm understanding this correctly Strong-Dog, what you're referring to is the slight difference in plunge radius leading into the cutting edge, when looking straight down at the grinding choil like in your photo there? I've enhanced it a bit, trying to understand what you're seeing that is giving you concern. If we are on the same page, you are talking a few thousandths Man...

View attachment 422102

For further reference, here is a stack of finished blades, waiting for sharpening and assembly.

View attachment 422108

I honestly don't see anything at all wrong or out of the ordinary with your blade but if you do, please feel free to return it for an exchange or full refund. This link will get you started: https://surviveknives.com/sales/guest/form/
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I appreciate you taking the time out of your day for that response. As long as it won't structurally weaken the blade or affect performance, I'm fine with it:) I do love the knife though, it's one of the most comfortable knives I've held. Also, the finish on the blade is probably the nicest stonewash I've seen.
 
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Can you possibly shoot some photos of that over to workshop@surviveknives.com ? I noticed some spotting back then on a few blades, that we tracked down to surface contaminate (carbon steel), which got ground into the M-390 blades surface during tumbling. Tumbling carbon steel and then stainless steel is a bad idea. lol Once the blades were cleaned really well the spotting stopped.

d2k5000 said:
I have not tried a knife in 20cv, but I have had rust problems under the handle of my gso 4.1 in m390. Since m390 and 20cv are nearly identical, I imagine that the steels would react in a similar manner.

The rough surface of the holes for the screws in particular were having problems. I don't really care if the knife has a "rough" look of a working blade, but I think that better finishing might help with corrosion. I live in a fairly humid environment, but I can't think of any other time that I have had a problem with a stainless blade.
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