Just looking to learn. HT ?s

Frmacastan · Sep 3, 2012

Ok this is my problem, i have scaned through an read link after link and page after page and ive read alot of the kevin guys post (even though some seemed to be in a different language to me lol) and have learned alot, but i cant find out what steel require its own individual heat treating process. surely not all steels are the same?

like i made my 1st 7 knives from files then read where 1 guy said files aint very good knives.

so now im wanting to try 1084,d2,440c,n680. will i receive them in a softened state? or do i hafta soften them. also would it just be better to send them to someone to HT for me?

i really am trying to learn and further my knowledge any help atal would be greatly appreciated.

thanx so much in advance,

Kyle

BM(406) · Sep 3, 2012

I have a question for you; the 7 knives you made from files, did you test them with use? Did they take and edge and stay sharp? Is it easy to roll,chip, break the edge? Will they handle some rough treatment within the scope of what the blade was designed for? Did you get consistent results between the 7 blades? If you answer yes, then it shouldn't matter what you read in a post about some one else's opinion, because it is simply an opinion. I like chics with big butts....

I googled Nicholson file steel type real quick....1095. Like I said, real quick so not sure if it's correct....a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 18" piece of 1095 from one of the knife suppliers is around $7. If you got good results with your 7 blades then you are doing something right and changing to a new steel after only 7 knives could put a big swing in your learning curve.

1084 may be a better investment, it is quite similar to 1095 but has some vanadium in it to inhibit grain growth if you accidentally overheat it during your HT and is a eutectoid. 1084 is available at http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/product-category/high-carbon-steel/ (thanks Aldo)

I used that super cool word earlier, eutectoid....it makes me sound smart n stuff. 1095 hyper-eutectoid....see there, now I sound smarter!!
Use this link http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra to help better in your research. Type those words in over there and I think it will be easier to answer your questions. Making knives is about how you do it and how good they turn out, not about how some one tells you to do it and hope you get good results. Practice with one steel at a time until you get it down then try something else. Oh, and have fun/good luck along they way!!

mrp · Sep 3, 2012

Read the stickies, don't scan them. When you're finished reading stickies, ponder the information you've gleaned and read them again. Every question you asked is answered in the stickies, that's why they're there! I know it isn't light reading, but it's an incredible source of information.

SBuzek · Sep 3, 2012

You will recieve them in an annealed state (soft).The 1084 can be done in a small forge and canola oil and get decent results.The D2,440-c and N680 you would have to sdend out for H/T.
Stan

Leatherface · Sep 3, 2012

I also suggest 1084...Aldo should have some more in stock in a couple weeks

Frmacastan · Sep 3, 2012

Circle-A-Blades said:
I have a question for you; the 7 knives you made from files, did you test them with use? Did they take and edge and stay sharp? Is it easy to roll,chip, break the edge? Will they handle some rough treatment within the scope of what the blade was designed for? Did you get consistent results between the 7 blades? If you answer yes, then it shouldn't matter what you read in a post about some one else's opinion, because it is simply an opinion. I like chics with big butts....

I googled Nicholson file steel type real quick....1095. Like I said, real quick so not sure if it's correct....a 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 18" piece of 1095 from one of the knife suppliers is around $7. If you got good results with your 7 blades then you are doing something right and changing to a new steel after only 7 knives could put a big swing in your learning curve.

1084 may be a better investment, it is quite similar to 1095 but has some vanadium in it to inhibit grain growth if you accidentally overheat it during your HT and is a eutectoid. 1084 is available at http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/product-category/high-carbon-steel/ (thanks Aldo)

I used that super cool word earlier, eutectoid....it makes me sound smart n stuff. 1095 hyper-eutectoid....see there, now I sound smarter!!
Use this link http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra to help better in your research. Type those words in over there and I think it will be easier to answer your questions. Making knives is about how you do it and how good they turn out, not about how some one tells you to do it and hope you get good results. Practice with one steel at a time until you get it down then try something else. Oh, and have fun/good luck along they way!!

so far the knives from the files I have made are doing great, i havnt put them through the ringer yet but i plan on it. thanx for the comment.

Frmacastan · Sep 3, 2012

SBuzek said:
You will recieve them in an annealed state (soft).The 1084 can be done in a small forge and canola oil and get decent results.The D2,440-c and N680 you would have to sdend out for H/T.
Stan

ok thanx for the help! how finished should it be before sending off to HT? everything but the final edge is what im guessing???

Frmacastan · Sep 3, 2012

mrp said:
Read the stickies, don't scan them. When you're finished reading stickies, ponder the information you've gleaned and read them again. Every question you asked is answered in the stickies, that's why they're there! I know it isn't light reading, but it's an incredible source of information.

i feel like i have read stickies until my head hurts lol and am still reading them so maby i will find what im looking for.

Frmacastan · Sep 4, 2012

SBuzek said:
You will recieve them in an annealed state (soft).The 1084 can be done in a small forge and canola oil and get decent results.The D2,440-c and N680 you would have to sdend out for H/T.
Stan

ive read alot of your post and you seem to have a vast knowledge of steel and what not. so this is a question, i want to build a bush knife that can take a beating and still have great edge retention, skin an elk an not hafta sharpen it 50xs during the skinning. so what steel would you reccomend? or any1 that reads this post.