just making sure this will actually work (adjusting slipjoint tension)

C

clockworkfish

Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Messages
161
so my slipjoints are progressing but the backspring has just too much tension, and will slowly rip off my nail, so thinning out the spring should work right? any other methods that will work well?
 
Yes. Thin the spring between the center pin and where the kick lands.Be careful not to get into the point where the kick hits or you will change your rise and fall.

Stan
 
You probably already know this but in case you don't: This isn't a repair, but for future knives you can put them under less tension to start with by not having the center pin (if that's where you set your tension) so offset. You need to find a balance where you're not thinning the spring so much that it's in danger of breaking but you have enough tension to get the snap that you want.

For me, that's adjusting how far offset the center pin hole is. Thinning the spring and changing the amount of offset will give you a slightly different feel to the snap. Keep notes on how much the pin is offset and how thick the spring is so when it's finished and oiled and broken in you'll have a reference for where you want to go from there (or be able to replicate it if you like the result).
 
Mike............ I'm not sure what you mean when you say "offset" Are you referring to the distance that the center pin is from the pivot pin?

Thanks

Syn
 
No, although that's also something I play with a little to get a different feel in the snap. I mean how much the hole in the frame and the hole in the spring DON'T line up, giving the tension to the spring.

I'm terrible at explaining things today :) I'll go get a picture.
 
edited to add: Stan's talking about only removing from the green area, leave the red area alone.

Here's what I'm talking about. If the pivot pin was in place, and the rear pin was in place, the center pin wouldn't line up with the hole you have drilled in the frame. In my head, the amount that they don't line up is called the offset.

b0129bf0-4449-40d5-8c13-35152546c3d3_zps1f3b0141.jpg


For instance, on yours, since it's hard to open, has a large offset and a thick spring cause you really had to force the spring to move when you put in whatever pin you put in last. A lot of the tutorials I've looked at give different amounts to offset that hole. Some people stick to that amount and vary the thickness of the spring. I'm just saying you can play with how far that hole is offset for a different feel.

Especially when I'm trying a different metal or a different temper on the spring I'll try different amounts of offset. I'll tweak the snap from there with removing metal from the spring if I have to.

A large offset with a thinner spring can have the same spring strength as a small offset with a thicker spring, but each will have a different amount of aggressiveness or snap in the action.

Here's one I'm finishing up now. It has a small offset, but because it has a thick spring it has a very aggressive, authoritative, dependable snap. I have some that have a large offset and thin spring and they have a very different feel that's a smoother, silkier and more refined. It depends on what you like.

Slipjoints are fun :)

[video=youtube_share;NCyXwgr90TM]http://youtu.be/NCyXwgr90TM[/video]
 
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so while making it play with where the center spring is placed? Also i had a lot of fun with making the slipjoints, but the 2 biggest problems i had were assembing the spring and knife, could not for the life of me figure out a way to cram everything in there without using just about all my weight, i figure thats just the fault of the spring. The second was just as annoying, which was all of my micarta was pretty heavily warped, and for a linerless that is just so much not fun trying to get everything not gritty and nasty feeling. oddly enough just lubing the joint basically fixed those issues entirely!
 
Play with were it's placed on the liner when you drill the last hole, this is what gives it it's spring.
I think what I call offset, other people call loading. I think you're loading the spring too much and it's probably also too thick.
 
You can also soften the backspring.
If you decide to thin the backspring, do it gradually (not all in one spot.)
 
Mike, that is really interesting. I've only seen the tension or loading of the spring done with the back hole offset, not the center hole offset. I'm going to have to try that!

Also, if the op doesn't care greatly, I'd like to hear you and Bill expound on a fat thick spring vs a thin spring and the amount of offset each needs.
 
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