Just Ordered a GB!

In my opinion the opening and closing smoothness has more to do with those hard, smooth steel liners against the PB washers with the M-4 blade sandwiched in between.

I thought about that too. I have a couple folders from another maker that are not even remotely smooth. Not sure why the "other guys" haven't gotten up to date. I mean, nylon washers? Puhleez!
 
This is a question, not a challenge :) How would you compare the knife that you have in mind in your post above to a Manix 2 with similar micarta scales and a CPM-M4 blade? I'm not sure what my answer would be, so feel free to punt. :D

Never had a Manix 2, but I always liked the looks. Deciding factor would be how the knife feels.

I've also never owned a leaf-blade, but it seems like a nice platform; thin out the grind (FFG or deeper hollow) and give it M4 and most anything will be pretty awesome.

The Manix 2 seems to me to be more suited for really heavy duty-the guard makes it more suited to stabbing.

Of course, the deciding factor would be for Spyderco to make both, and send 'em to me for a month of reviewing. :D
 
I was cutting some heavy card board today with my gb. When I noticed a dent in the blade. Should this happen? I was able to sharpen it out. But I figured it wouldnt dent with just card board. Im wondering how it would hold up skinning an elk. Thats the reason i bought the knife.
 
Could you have hit a staple? There had to be something very hard that you hit. I've been impressed with the edge holding of mine.
 
There was no staples in the box. Thats whats odd. I just asked because of the rockwell on this. It shouldnt dent that easy. I use it every day at work, so we'll see if it was a fluke or something.
 
My GB just came today and its one heck of a knife it is a little hard to get out at first but I think with practice it will be OK if I had any money left I would get it done like Powernoodles
 
I was cutting some heavy card board today with my gb. When I noticed a dent in the blade. Should this happen? I was able to sharpen it out. But I figured it wouldnt dent with just card board. Im wondering how it would hold up skinning an elk. Thats the reason i bought the knife.

I’ve sent my GB through all sorts of stuff including stands of wiring, even used it to hack into a piece of pbc piping that was still half buried. The knife dulled but I was surprised to see that even under magnification there was no edge damage to speak of.
 
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737001
I do believe it's possible for a heat treat to make the cutting edge brittle. Once the knife is factory sharpened, the brittle steel is removed to some extent, but there is not enough metal removed to guarantee anything. I think this is the problem with microchipping of some "premium" steels (S30V, D2, M4).
It would be a safe bet that after 2-3 really good sharpenings, not touch ups, the edge would no longer chip the way described by rodriguez7.
 
Granting your points, Rev, and also acknowledging that the GBs are hard by normal standards, we are talking about CPM-M4, a very fine grain tool steel, suitable for cutting other steels. I'm puzzled by the original report.
 
I mentioned this because this has happened to me about a month into owning my GB. I was a little more brutal to mine than most I would say. Cutting solid copper wire (romex/Cat5), and a whole bunch cardboard.
I ended up with a microchip that sharpened out easily. After a really good sharpening session where I ended up creating a new bevel, I noticed that after the same use, the knife has not flinched.
ymmv :)
 
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I held out as long as I could. Got one on the way and will probably offload my CF sage . Looking forward to giving M4 a run.
 
Holy cow this is much more knife than I thought! BEEFCAKE! Heavier than my Strider, stouter than my Sebenza, sharper than both! The lock is a PITA but on the other hand, I kinda like the 'safety' in it you know? Very cool knife Sal & Co. Just glad I kep my Ti Sage as my 'small' knife!
 
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I think the Bradley will end up being a classic.

Me too :thumbup:

As for the inconvenient lockbar access, I've found if I slide my thumb pad forward along the lockbar (in the groove between the lockbar and opposite scale actually) starting just behind the jimping, my thumb rises up a lttile bit on that little rise in front of the lockbar jimping and catches there. A slight pinch of my thumb pad separates the lockbar from the tang and voila! Almost no effort, for me anyway.
 
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