Just ordered an Evenheat, Now What?

WalterDavis

WalterDavis

Joined
Nov 23, 2005
Messages
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Alright, I just ordered an Evenheat (the 18", 120 volt model) oven from Tracy @ US knifemakers and I'm stoked! Can't wait for it to arrive! However, I'm needing some direction as far as heat-treating various steels, especially as it relates to using this oven. I've found the basic temperature charts and graphs (I spend a lot of time looking in the 'Newbies, good info here' thread:D) but I'm wondering if there's any source of info that will lay out heat-treating procedures in a step-by-step manner? A "heat-treating for dummies" as it were.

Is it as simple as put the steel in the oven-set time and temp-quench when the buzzer goes off? For now, I'll be sticking with 1075/1095, O1, and 5160, which I feel pretty comfortable with, but there are some designs I'd like to do in D2, A2 and stainless, which I gather are more involved? And air-hardening, how do I do that? Can those steel be oil-quenched? 'Cause I think I'd have an easier time finding the blood of virgins than some thick aluminum plates around here:p

Sorry, I know it's a big question, and I'm not necessarily looking for the direct answers as much as a point in the right direction to finding them. I don't know where to look or what books to buy:confused: Or if I'm over thinking the whole thing:p

Thanks,

Walter
 
I'm in the same boat, kind of... my paragon finally showed up about a week ago. I still need a good metal stand to put it on, and gloves, a rack, tongs, etc. I ordered the HT "kit" from a place I won't mention because they've been pissing me off lately, but everything was out of stock except for the safety glasses. Anyway, the Paragon came with plenty of instructions for HT'ing typical steels; I would imagine your Evenheat will, too.

Here's a link about reprogramming your Evenheat if you have problems.

Here's a thread where some kind folks answered my questions about home cryo. Other cool stuff came up, too.

Have fun!
 
look for the big brown truck , 2 weeks.
vern

where did you order from
us knife makers are the cheapest
 
For carbon steel:

Rough grind,throw it in the oven,soak at set temp,take out and quickly quench in oil :)

Stainless: profile blade,wrap in stainless foil. soak at required temp,remove and quench between two thick alu plates.remove from foil and grind :)

dont forget to temper first :D

i can elaborate if you like :thumbup:
 
You may want to look on ebay for some big aluminum plates. I found a 1" thick 12"x12" plate for a decent price that I cut in half to have two, 1"x6"x12" plates. It works very well for me.

Air hardening is actually much nicer that oil hardening to most folks just for the ease of use and no mess. A 10' roll of 24" wide SS foil will last for a good number of knives as well. The plates are also handy in preventing warps for the most part. That being said, I still don't mind heat treat O-1 at all.

As for oil quenching stainless, there are some people that have done that with certain alloys, but I'd think there is a increased failure risk for most air hardening steels, either globally or on a microscopic level.

--nathan
 
It has this on the Evenheat site:

Q5: I heard ATS34 etc can be tempered at a high or low range. Is this true?

A5: Sort of – but the high range gives you reduced toughness and corrosion resistance. It should be avoided


Is this true? I always thought the high range was best.
 
You can oil quench some of the air hardening steels, but to do so you have to quickly remove the 1700+ degree blade from its foil wrap or use some anti scale protection other than foil. Some folks (Dan Koster?) have claimed that removing the blades from the foil is no big deal. Others have tried out a high temperature version of PBC anti-scale powder with mixed results.

Most of us seem to prefer just placing the foil package between a couple of big metal plates until it's cool. I got both sets of my quench plates on eBay.

Until you get plates, you might remember that these are air hardening steels. They will get hard if you just let them cool down in still air; maybe not quite as hard as with plates, I haven't tested it.
 
You will be happy with your good toy. I have the Evenheat Pro as well. Great oven. Just read the small book that comes with it and all will go well. :)

Terry
 
Thanks for the good info, all!

Oneill, that link was exactly what I needed! Everything spelled out for me step by step:thumbup: I appreciate it:D
 
Man i like mine a lot as well and it work's real good.
To help you out some go to harbor F and get the long reach pliers also get some weldeing gloves and some cotten gloves and put them inside this will help on the heat when you get steel out. Hope this helps.
 
While you are at HF look in the welding area for a pair of pliers that have the big wide flat faces. They work perfectly for doing the fold on the stainless foil and give you a nice tight seal when you do the double fold. Dont forget to put a piece of kraft paper 1 inch square in the handle area. Also get a magic marker and use it to make a mark on the handle end so you will know which end to cut open when you take it out hot. I lay mine on a fire brick to cut open with angle pliers grab the blade and put it on the aluminum.
 
You don't even really have to worry about cutting the blade out of the foil for plate quenching. You can do it quite effectively with the foil on. Of course, if you want to check for warps, you gotta take the foil off. I usually quench out of the oven with just the back end of the packet sticking out of the plates. I then snip the packet open once the blade cools below iridescent. Then I'll grab the end of the blade and pull it out of the pack to check for warps, then re-plate. That way you don't have to expose a 1900 degree blade to oxygen prematurely and you'll keep your nice clean finish.

Also, I used to add paper to the packet as well, but found that with a fully heat soaked oven, when I put the packet in, the combustible would rapidly ignite and quickly inflate the packet. I never was a fan of punching a hole in the packet, so I just started leaving the combustible out all together. The small amount of oxygen in the packet (if wrapped well and snug) doesn't really cause any problems that I've seen.

I also use a piece of micarta and a hammer to flatten my folds/crimps in the foil packet, but those flat jaw pliers mentioned work really well also.

One other thing, when folding and crimping your foil packs, make sure the folded area does not overlap the tip of the blade, or it can easily warp the tip away from the fold when plated (ask me how I know :o).

--nathan
 
T. Hendrickson said:
It has this on the Evenheat site:

Q5: I heard ATS34 etc can be tempered at a high or low range. Is this true?

A5: Sort of – but the high range gives you reduced toughness and corrosion resistance. It should be avoided


Is this true? I always thought the high range was best.
Click to expand...

any thoughts on this?
 
Good for you Walter. I checked out that Evenheat HT site. Funny, but it doesn't seem to have 5160, 52100 or W2 listed?! Enjoy your furnace to the max!
 
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