Just ordered my first high end axe

Congrats on buying the best O.P. I have only one G. Bruks, the others are various Swedish makes. I would never try to talk a guy out of a Gransfor Bruks, but there are some decent alternatives that will not empty your wallet. Husqvarna axes are contracted out to famous Swedish makers and I believe that they are buying from Hults Bruk at this time. There is also Wetterlings who have really stepped up their game as of late in regard to quality. My point is that with a little research a guy can pick up a brand new quality Swedish axe at about half the cost of a Granfors Bruks. But that is every mans choice. And as I said, I would never steer someone away from such a high quality tool...but realize that there are quality Swedish options available.




Wetterlings new model Scandinavian. It can do some real work yet isn't huge. I really like it. You will love your G.B.
 
SC T100 said:
They come from the factory with a BLO and beeswax handle treatment. However, I wiped on a few coats of BLO just for good measure and the handle did absorb a few thin coats. The end grains (eye and wedge) will usually soak some up especially, which will help prevent the haft from drying out. Your handle may not need it yet, but it can't hurt. Simply wipe on a thin coat, let it sit for a few minutes, and wipe it off...I don't bother even sanding unless the wood is rough or damaged. If the oil sits on the surface, you're good. If it absorbs, keep applying thin coats until the wood won't accept anything else. Your handle may very well be good to go as is. I do it just for good measure, just in case yours has been sitting in a dry warehouse for a few months or something.

There are lots of handle treatments available...pure linseed oil, BLO (which has drying agents to allow it to dry in 24-48 hours usually), walnut oil, beeswax, mineral oil, orange oil, tung oil, etc. BLO is simply one of the cheapest and easiest to find, and it dries quickly unlike pure oils which can take weeks to months to fully cure. I like my handles treated with BLO (which darkens the wood a bit), then "polished" with a coarse rag or scrubby pad to smooth the grain a bit. If it's a raw handle, I sand to about 60-80 grit, add the coats of BLO, and then polish the grain. It's then ready for fun.
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That is fantastic information, thank you. Having never been an artisan axe kind of guy I had no idea it worked like this. I'll be doing so. It sounds like good fun, I'm one of those weirdos who cleans his knives, guns, etc, when they aren't dirty because it's relaxing lol.
 
Several of the GFB models are on back order this time of year. Glad you were able to get what you wanted. I should have a wildlife hatchet arrive in the mail on Thursday. I have a small splitting axe and small forest axe. Really nice tools.
 
2TONYB said:
Several of the GFB models are on back order this time of year. Glad you were able to get what you wanted. I should have a wildlife hatchet arrive in the mail on Thursday. I have a small splitting axe and small forest axe. Really nice tools.
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Yeah I looked and looked and somehow stumbled upon a place that had a few of them in stock. Everywhere else was backordered.

I'm debating what to try next.



There's a pine scraping up against my house I think I may go and cut some limbs off of, or at least shorten them. Be a good first use of my axe. Need to get some goo gone or something to knock off that pine sap though, sticky stuff.


Unless someone has a better suggestion for getting that stuff off. I just need to knock some limbs off this tree before it starts beating up the siding too much.
 
md02geist said:
Aaaaand back ordered for like two months.


They cited manufacturer supply issues.
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When I was sopping for my GFB Small Forest Axe, all shops in US that showed in stock were actually with ~2 months back order (wonder if they just order from the factory when there is a purhase?).
So I found one from England, Ray Mears' web store, they had it in stock the handle was stamped with his shop name. But I got it in 2 weeks thanks to USPS messing up with the shipping.
 
md02geist said:
There's a pine scraping up against my house I think I may go and cut some limbs off of, or at least shorten them. Be a good first use of my axe. Need to get some goo gone or something to knock off that pine sap though, sticky stuff. Unless someone has a better suggestion for getting that stuff off. I just need to knock some limbs off this tree before it starts beating up the siding too much.
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Turpentine, Varsol and even gasoline will remove pine pitch fast and easy.
 
md02geist said:
Unless someone has a better suggestion for getting that stuff off. I just need to knock some limbs off this tree before it starts beating up the siding too much.
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Dampen a little charred wood and it will act as a fine abrasive to scrub it off. This is a more field expedient way of removing pitch that I discovered while out camping.

Forgot to add this also works for rust or stuck on foods. You can even use it as a toothpaste in a pinch.

Don't forget to harvest any fatwood from the pine, great fire starter.
 
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md02geist said:
That is fantastic information, thank you. Having never been an artisan axe kind of guy I had no idea it worked like this. I'll be doing so. It sounds like good fun, I'm one of those weirdos who cleans his knives, guns, etc, when they aren't dirty because it's relaxing lol.
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Ha! Bingo. I sometimes rub my axes and wooden handles down with BLO just for the heck of it while I'm in the garage for the same reasons. It's relaxing and good for the tools. Just don't put too much on at once, otherwise it will sort of stay gummy/tacky for a long time...the key is multiple thin coats.
 
Hacked said:
Dampen a little charred wood and it will act as a fine abrasive to scrub it off. This is a more field expedient way of removing pitch that I discovered while out camping.

Forgot to add this also works for rust or stuck on foods. You can even use it as a toothpaste in a pinch.

Don't forget to harvest any fatwood from the pine, great fire starter.
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Excellent suggestion and reminder on the fatwood. And then maybe I can go back to the branches I lopped and see if there's some resin waiting for me :)
 
aikonen said:
If the axe is the same as that picture, it's made by Hults Bruk. :)
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Cool, thanks. I will then have three Hults ranging in size. I am now starting to feel a little saturated but I just love handling\using these tools. But I still have a lot to learn and it is helpful to be on this forum and learn from all of you.
:)
 
upnorth said:
Cool, thanks. I will then have three Hults ranging in size. I am now starting to feel a little saturated but I just love handling\using these tools. But I still have a lot to learn and it is helpful to be on this forum and learn from all of you.
:)
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Let us know when it shows up if you don't mind? I've been wondering about who Husqvarna is using right now too.
 
I bought a Granfors Bruks and they really are amazingly good. Unfortunately buying axes is like buying guns and/or knives. I now have a collection of GBs and Snow & Neely axes in my garage. One of my friends told me he likes Helkos, so now I have 3 or four of those around. I'm a little embarrassed, but the one I still use the most is an old Sears boys axe for limbing trees that have been felled. Everyone who doesn't live in an apartment, needs to have one good large axe and a smaller one for light work. If you live in an apartment, a Glock and a boys axe is probably all you need.
 
md02geist said:
Let us know when it shows up if you don't mind? I've been wondering about who Husqvarna is using right now too.
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I'll try to remember bud. But the Husky hatchet in my pictures above is a Hults contracted head I believe, and bought recently. You can see the similarities with the larger Hultafors, Hults Bruk also in the pics.
 
md02geist said:
Let us know when it shows up if you don't mind? I've been wondering about who Husqvarna is using right now too.
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Found this. I suppose it's all new and exciting for the ignorant like myself to be enlightened, but this is old hat for some folks. No biggy, we all walk a path when interested. I'm looking forward to this axe as it seems to have a thinner bit/profile than my Wetterlings Scand., which I really like the feel of

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1034141-Husqvarna-Forest-Axe
 
Large Husky came in. Needs a bit of work but the edge\bit is surprisingly thin, thinner than my Wett. Scandinavian. The axe is also surprisingly light weight. Gave it a light sanding and a BLO smear. Will not be able to use it for the better part of a week right now. $71.00 when I walked out of a Canadian Husqvarna dealership.

 
God damn, now I want a new Husky upnorth. Nice axe. About the thin bit, I believe that Wetterlings makes them unusually fat compared to Hults / Gränsf
 
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