Just received my Collins Legitimus axe (pics)

[newsasquatch]

 

[newsasquatch]

 

[newsasquatch]

 

[newsasquatch]

 

[newsasquatch]

Is this a Connecticut pattern?
The cheeks seem kind of thin.

 

[300Six]

That one has had a lot of use and was well cared for during much of it. I always get a kick out of the nails and staples that were driven in long after the primary user packed in, moved on or gave it to the next generation.

 

[newsasquatch]

hard to see the cheeks, maybe because it's too dark in my apt.

 

[newsasquatch]

That one has had a lot of use and was well cared for during much of it. I always get a kick out of the nails and staples that were driven in long after the primary user packed in, moved on or gave it to the next generation.

Yeah I really like the old handle, I hope it's salvageable. Would you have a guess as to how old this is?

 

[Alocksly]

There's an axe that wasn't made for splitting kindling.

 

[M3mphis]

nice score! I have one of those and it is one of my very favorite choppers.

yes, it is a Connecticut pattern.

 

[newsasquatch]

nice score! I have one of those and it is one of my very favorite choppers.

yes, it is a Connecticut pattern.

Thanks, it's actually smaller than I thought though, I thought it was a 3.5 # head but it seems like the size a boys axe. Still love it though, I was just hoping for a bigger one like this.

 

[newsasquatch]

Btw, should I widen the bevel into a banana grind-those look cool on this axe?

 

[Square_peg]

Great looking Connecticut. The old handle is definitely still usable. Just lower it 3/8" or so onto the shoulder. And give the whole thing half a dozen coats of of BLO, concentrating on the end grain of the swell. That'll seal it right up.

I have a Legitimus Connie sitting right on my desk next to me and you're right, the cheeks are already relatively thin on these axes. I like banana grinds but I don't think I'll do it to mine. There's simply no need on cheeks already this thin.

The secondary bevel on the bit of your axe looks a little wide. I would just file that into a more gradual roll into the cheeks and call it good.

 

[newsasquatch]

Great looking Connecticut. The old handle is definitely still usable. Just lower it 3/8" or so onto the shoulder. And give the whole thing half a dozen coats of of BLO, concentrating on the end grain of the swell. That'll seal it right up.

Thanks, I love it! I LOVE this handle. I think you may have mentioned to me in a past thread that I should thin down my handle when I get a new one, and wow, this one is way thin! I love how it feels in my hand. I did a feeble job at sharpening it today and started chopping some wood here at my work and I realized that the handle was really loose, so I had to take into the shop at my work and try to get the handle out. Unfortunately there was not only that big broken screw in it, but another screw and two old metal wedges. I was so pissed that all that metal was in there. People that do that to their axes are really screwing over the next person who owns it if that person wants to save the handle.
So I eventually got it out but unfortunately I had to drill into the handle to get it out because the metal pieces were so far in.

The holes are actually covered up by wood on the top from pounding it out. I have an idea though; I think im going to fill the top of the handle with BONDO, it will harden, then I'll cut the top part again-that should fix it.
Now the next problem, there is a hell of a lot of rust on the inside of the eye, I don't want to ruin the patina by soaking it in vinegar but I would like to get rid of all that rust. I don't really know what to do.

I have a Legitimus Connie sitting right on my desk next to me and you're right, the cheeks are already relatively thin on these axes. I like banana grinds but I don't think I'll do it to mine. There's simply no need on cheeks already this thin.

I see your point but I thought that the banana grind could allow me to sink deeper into wood, but I see that this might actually make it harder to take out of wood.

The secondary bevel on the bit of your axe looks a little wide. I would just file that into a more gradual roll into the cheeks and call it good.

I think I see what you mean, it looks like there must have been some chipping at the top and bottom of the edge and they didn't even out the roll of the edge, right?

 

[Square_peg]

No, that's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about the bevel at the edge of the bit. The cutting edge. Looks like too wide of angle.

I would blend that in with a file.

 

[newsasquatch]

Oh okay, thanks.

 

[lmalterna]

Squatch,
There was a time when most hardware and feed stores had excellent handles for cheap- so the saving of a used handle was not such a priority. I am 47 but when I was a young teen, we slammed a head on a handle in 30 minutes- no grace to it, when the handle was abused and needed swapping 5.00 and 30 minutes had it done. These quality handles are now hard to come by so us nits are working our butts off to save them.

Dropping the head usually helps, I also use Marine Tex to fill in minor cracks and splits, does not match the wood well but my aim is to get a tool back into service moreso than producing a wall hanger. Nothing wrong with wall hangers though

I made a pass at that axe also Glad it went to someone who appreciates it.

Bill

 

[augsburger]

When I get a CT pattern with a handle like this, I consider the handle as valuable as the head. You just can't find them like that anymore. I will restore the handle as best I can and then use it as a pattern either for a hand made handle or a store bought handle that I will thin out and reshape. I don't have a single store bought handle that hasn't been redone. As you can see by your well used axe, the thickness has much less to do with strength than most think it does. Cheers.

 

[Double Ott]

"Now the next problem, there is a hell of a lot of rust on the inside of the eye, I don't want to ruin the patina by soaking it in vinegar but I would like to get rid of all that rust. I don't really know what to do."

I've used a 12 Ga. brass cleaning brush, chucked in a variable speed electric drill to clean out an axe eye. Seemed to work pretty well. I'll bet any gauge or caliber brush would work. A rifle brush might be a little stiffer and get in the narrow part of the eye better than a 12 Ga.

Tom

 

[M3mphis]

When I get a CT pattern with a handle like this, I consider the handle as valuable as the head. You just can't find them like that anymore. I will restore the handle as best I can and then use it as a pattern either for a hand made handle or a store bought handle that I will thin out and reshape. I don't have a single store bought handle that hasn't been redone.

Exactly. That handle is a gem.

A couple folks have called that axe "well used." It looks damn fresh to me.