Just recieved my 0561. Is this normal?

Jfoley4 said:
My 0560 gets unbearable sticky lock when I apply lubricant. any suggestions on what is a good lube to use?
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Every firearm and every pivot (among other things) gets the "Frog Lube" in my house. it's food safe and smells pretty good. It waterproofs everything it touches. The only draw back is that it seems to dry out slightly after a few weeks. Usually a single drop around the pivot is more than enough to reactivate whats already there.
 
jill jackson said:
You can see how tight the lock is on it and it's now fixed.

5zioib.jpg
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That's a nicely mated lock JJ. If you look at the Op's video and freeze some frames, you'll see that it's not making contact like in the picture above. It appears to be locking with the back portion of the lock bar since there's empty space at the mating area of bar and tang.

I agree that it probably need the graphite or sharpie treatment until it wears down whatever is catching and gives a smooth, even lock up and an appearance that looks more like the picture above.

Sticky lock-up is one of those unpleasant occurrences that pop up when you're into Ti frame lock folders.

And, yes the CS Ti-lite liner lock has the top folded over (like an inverted "L" to allow a sweet spot for thumb comfort. You have to look beneath it to actually see where the lock is engaging.

Keep on flippin dude! :thumbup: :D
 
If you do break down your 0560 again I'd be interested in seeing some pics of the KVT system and see how it works.
I broke down my Pro Series Turbulence the other day and got to see the IKBS system for the first time. All those little tiny
bearings got me nervous as I didn't want to end up losing any.
 
Sensi703 said:
I'm going to need to break the knife down again as I can see some of the graphite getting into the pivot but so far there is no noticeable difference in the deployment speed/smoothness.
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If any graphite gets in the pivot, it won't matter. As the graphite works its way in, it will just help polish as it goes. Graphite is a great dry powder lubricant that is used in locks maintenance and lock picking, with tiny malleable metal parts, known for binding when corroded. You're fine. Just blow it out and go on with your day.


Jfoley4 said:
My 0560 gets unbearable sticky lock when I apply lubricant. any suggestions on what is a good lube to use?
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Any liquid lubricant is going to cause binding. Most will grab dry material, say, pocket lint that would normally and easily be blown free. You add a liquid lubricant, and you got a no longer dry debris problem in your knife's inner working, but wet, sticky and compacted debris, which MAY BECOME A PROBLEM, not will, but may.

Most knife designs are made to work debris clear of the action, and Rick knows how to design a tough knife, and ZT can damn sure make a tough knife, so, I have no doubt that some wet pocket lint won't be a problem. But it could be, you never know.

I say stick with either a lithium grease (use very, very, very ,very small amounts) just to connecting parts, or a graphite powder. You can get it at most lock stores, and some other places, or online. Or you can just be a cheap ass like me and use a pencil once and again.

Lithium grease is cool, but you only want it on the pivot area, not on the lock bar/face. Just use a pencil if the lock bar is sticking.

And just for the record, I'm not a Ti framelock expert by any stretch of the word. I just like playing with knives is all.

Moose
 
good to know thanks for the input. It bothers me that certain knife companies make lube and say it will cause no harm when obviously it can. I trusted a product to do the job when it really could cause damage. Glad to hear it now, and not when something worse than sticky lock could have come up.
 
Jfoley4 said:
good to know thanks for the input. It bothers me that certain knife companies make lube and say it will cause no harm when obviously it can. I trusted a product to do the job when it really could cause damage. Glad to hear it now, and not when something worse than sticky lock could have come up.
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Like I said, most modern knife makes, will clear even silty, loose, muddy, muck, after a good soak. My 303 done a muddy bucket challenge and I think it helped it out, actually.

There is not much need to worry, but its all up to how you maintain your knives.

Moose
 
Why thanks for the followup video and the shirt thing..... I kinda hope u took care of that problem mentioned earlier.... like tree limbs lol
 
Sensi703 said:
To those that are interested, this is a followup video after flipping the knife a few hundred times. I took a q-tip and rubbed most of the pencil off the back of the blade so what you see is the knife in action with no lubrication. I also put a shirt on for you guys lmao.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5Zot_VzdQI&feature=youtu.be
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awesome, nice to see that its broken in nicely. Enjoy it. im jealous. I have a 0560 but wanted a 0561. Oh well, one day.
 
Good for you Sensi703. The lock's working and appears to be engaging over a larger portion of the lock bar too. Outstanding! :thumbup:
 
Cool, and good to hear.

Now, go eat a damn cheeseburger and put some weight on, if you stuck your tongue out and stood sideways, you'd look like a zipper.

:D

Moose
 
The sharpie trick works great. It will help smooth it out while it's breaking in. I thought mine was off center but it was kind of an illusion created by the full ti side looking thicker that the g10 side. Mine is a hair off, but definatly not enough to worry about.
 
Jfoley4 said:
My 0560 gets unbearable sticky lock when I apply lubricant. any suggestions on what is a good lube to use?
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The whole concept of lubrication is worth a quick discussion. This thread has mostly centered around applying a DRY lubricant to the locking surfaced of the blade. A Sharpie marker works well, or you can use a pencil to apply graphite tot he surface. If a normal wooden pencil doesn't reach the surface, get a cheap mechanical pencil - you can extend the lead out farther to reach the locking surface.

It sounds like you are getting oil on the locking surface when you lube the pivot. Weirdly enough, WET lubricant has negative impact on the locking surfaces - it causes the lockbar to engage too far, and become sticky when unlocking. The bearing pivot doesn't need a lot of lubricant - at the factory we use a dab of food safe grease. Vaseline will work just fine in a pinch if you can't find a proper clear grease. Again, avoid getting any on the locking surfaces.

Since your knife is brand new, it should be lubricated fine and should not need any additional grease for a while. I would get some Q-Tips and clean the oil off the locking surface of the blade and lockbar, then apply pencil lead or Sharpie to the blade tang. THis should result in a smooth, stick-free lockup.
 
Folks - let's all try and keep the personal jabs to a minimum - we want this to be a friendly place where people can ask questions and get answers, regardless of their choice in attire. It looks like Sensi's knife got sorted out, so thanks to those who have offered advice and helped him get there.
 
Strange comments here. Who cares about armpit hair? Good grief, I dated a gal with more - once. Don't shave that area with your new ZT... that blade metal isn't warranted for that. And... since when do firearm's parts start mating? Something else to worry over!

I'm glad the OP has been satisfied with his new ZT. It's amazing what pencil lead can accomplish.

Stainz

PS A basic trigger job on a new Ruger or S&W revolver often simply replicates 500-1,000 trigger pulls on said new revolver. More fun with ammo, of course. Dry-firing a new revolver is effective - but similar to 'flipping' a blade-less knife!
 
OP I suggest holding off on the lube.

Lube will cause the Ti to gall against the steel blade, and will only further any sticking issues. People feel something stick and they think lube will help a lot of the times, but it only makes it worse.
 
Moosez45 said:
Cool, and good to hear.

Now, go eat a damn cheeseburger and put some weight on, if you stuck your tongue out and stood sideways, you'd look like a zipper.

:D

Moose
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Cheeseburgers go through me like water :(. I've been on the eat anything in front of you diet my whole life lol. Cut up some boxes at work today and went through them like butter. My co workers kept telling me how awesome my knife is. Might have to step it up and pick myself up an XM one of these days.

PURPLEDC said:
awesome, nice to see that its broken in nicely. Enjoy it. im jealous. I have a 0560 but wanted a 0561. Oh well, one day.
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And that's how I feel about the 0560. Love my 0561 but the black looks pretty awesome. Just wanted to change things up since I was switching over from a black PM2. One day I'll get the 0560 and pass this one on to one of my younger brothers. Thank you again for your help.

cziv said:
Good for you Sensi703. The lock's working and appears to be engaging over a larger portion of the lock bar too. Outstanding! :thumbup:
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Yeah. I'm really glad the KG shot me an email. I originally kept his name out of my post because I didn't want people getting the wrong impression (though I know he is a well known guy around here). KG shipped the knife the day I sent my payment and I received it 3 days later! Can't beat that.

Bandityo said:
Why thanks for the followup video and the shirt thing..... I kinda hope u took care of that problem mentioned earlier.... like tree limbs lol
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Haha! I can't imagine myself actually trimming my pit hairs. Seems kind of feminine to me. Perhaps when I hear a gal complain about it I'll consider it. :D.

Stainz said:
Strange comments here. Who cares about armpit hair? Good grief, I dated a gal with more - once. Don't shave that area with your new ZT... that blade metal isn't warranted for that. And... since when do firearm's parts start mating? Something else to worry over!

I'm glad the OP has been satisfied with his new ZT. It's amazing what pencil lead can accomplish.

Stainz

PS A basic trigger job on a new Ruger or S&W revolver often simply replicates 500-1,000 trigger pulls on said new revolver. More fun with ammo, of course. Dry-firing a new revolver is effective - but similar to 'flipping' a blade-less knife!
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I wish I could grow the same amount of pit hair on my face :( but alas. Interesting analogy and I agree! My SP101 had a pretty rough trigger out of the box but a few range trips and an 11lb trigger spring (stock return) really smoothed her out. I hear S&W have really nice triggers. I'm a Ruger fan boy (SP101, Blackhawk in .357/9mm) but am looking to add a S&W to the arsenal.

CrimsonTideShooter said:
OP I suggest holding off on the lube.

Lube will cause the Ti to gall against the steel blade, and will only further any sticking issues. People feel something stick and they think lube will help a lot of the times, but it only makes it worse.
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I actually used a q-tip to remove what I could from the blade just to see how it would perform without it and it's literally BUTTAH! I hope this thread will help those that encounter the same the "problem" I did. I knew it takes some time to break in but dear God that lock was TIGHT!

jimmer_5 said:
Folks - let's all try and keep the personal jabs to a minimum - we want this to be a friendly place where people can ask questions and get answers, regardless of their choice in attire. It looks like Sensi's knife got sorted out, so thanks to those who have offered advice and helped him get there.
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Echo that, thanks everyone. It was all in good fun. I was just flustered initially because I was trying to get to the bottom of why my lock-bar was so darn tight and all people could talk about were the pubes sticking out from under my arms! :grumpy:
 
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