Just the Tip

Jens Schuetz

Jens Schuetz

Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
4,162
What steel or other aspect would you chose to optimize tip integrity while keeping it light and thin?

Do I really have to chose between chipping and rolling or make it super thick
or could I avoid that if I chose a steel/ht that sacrifice toughness, stainless or edge retention for example?
I wouldn't mind if the blade flexes a bit instead of breaking or permanently bending, if that makes sense.

I was thinking of a 4.7 inch blade with only the top 1.6 inch being double edged.


That would only be my 3rd knife so far and even the 1st two arent heat treated yet (3rd party)

Thank you for your help.
 
80CrV2 is pretty tough and has good edge stability, even with thin edges and tips.
 
You can also do what Bill Bagwell did/does with bowies-draw the point section a bit springiwr than the rest of the blade.
80CrV2 is really good stuff, done right.
 
I've had great results with 52100, W2, and 15n20. Of course heat treating properly is very important. Overheating the tip is a common mistake.
 
Tip strength is a matter of geometry much more than steel choice. Most people make them far too thin ... and they break off.

That said, the tip isn't supposed to be strong on most knives. It is for piercing softer things and starting cuts. Blades that need a strong tip for stabbing or piercing hard objects should have a diamond shape cross section. They keep the thickness of the blade almost right up to the end. A look at a tanto or wakizashi tip will show how strong tip is made in Japan.
 
Jens Schuetz said:
What steel or other aspect would you chose to optimize tip integrity while keeping it light and thin?

Do I really have to chose between chipping and rolling or make it super thick
or could I avoid that if I chose a steel/ht that sacrifice toughness, stainless or edge retention for example?
I wouldn't mind if the blade flexes a bit instead of breaking or permanently bending, if that makes sense.

I was thinking of a 4.7 inch blade with only the top 1.6 inch being double edged.


That would only be my 3rd knife so far and even the 1st two arent heat treated yet (3rd party)

Thank you for your help.
Click to expand...

Jen
First, What thickness of steel do you have to start with?
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Jen
First, What thickness of steel do you have to start with?
Click to expand...
I'd get any stock thickness which you experts deem appropriate for the best steel in these dimensions. :-)

My approach so far would be to look at similar blades on the market which seem to have worked in the past.

The width to length ratio would be similar to an Applegate fairbairn. Therefore I'd have picked a 0.19 inch thick stock.

If however you think that's overkill with a good steel, I'd be glad to go with something thinner and lighter.

Since mine wouldn't be double edged all the way I could shift the ridge from the middle of the blade more towards the spine. The sharpened swedge would then have a steeper angle than the edge but that's fine.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Tip strength is a matter of geometry much more than steel choice. Most people make them far too thin ... and they break off.

That said, the tip isn't supposed to be strong on most knives. It is for piercing softer things and starting cuts. Blades that need a strong tip for stabbing or piercing hard objects should have a diamond shape cross section. They keep the thickness of the blade almost right up to the end. A look at a tanto or wakizashi tip will show how strong tip is made in Japan.
Click to expand...

Diamond cross section was my goal. Though not a Japanese or American tanto tip.
Maybe I'm a bit a paranoid but the only knife I ever stuck into tree bark got its tip bent in the process. I've never tried that again but would like a blade to be able to do at least that.
Thank you for your input. I'll make sure it's not too pointed. :-)
 
J W Bensinger said:
You can also do what Bill Bagwell did/does with bowies-draw the point section a bit springiwr than the rest of the blade.
80CrV2 is really good stuff, done right.
Click to expand...
Thank you JWB that sounds intriguing. If if Id have the skill and equipment I'd try differential HT for sure.
As of now I plan to outsource the HT to one of the companies praised here at BF. Do you know one who'd offer to make the tip springier?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top