JYD framelock prob

hardheart

hardheart

Joined
Sep 19, 2001
Messages
8,968
I modified the profile of the blade and handle on this one (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466751) so I would appreciate it if anyone else with the knife could try this out for verification. i didn't touch the lock face on the blade or frame, so I wouldn't guess that did it, but who knows. I thought it was good after some mild spinewhacks on a shoe sole, but for sh*ts & giggles I tried it on some wood. I then got a friend to record it on the sawhorse in the vid.

It's a download, not a streaming file, I have to head out and didn't fel like waiting for youtube's processing :p

http://zenixstudios.com/download.php?f=100_09121fb.mov
 
dont have the right player for your vid so i cant tell how you do it- but it doesnt take a very hard whack on mine to close it,its also a thin frame - but at least the lock doesn't close all the way when used and pinch your finger like the zdp mini cyclone i sent in does-
tried a bunch of other framelocks that i have and they all stay locked up-

at the jyd price point i dont have any real problems with it doing that-it shouldnt but its the first run and maybe they will make the lock better on the next version-

i am worried that the replacement zdp mini cyclone with have the same issue as the one i sent in though,a person in another post mentioned his closed 90% when used,that sounds alot like mine so i didnt get a isolated bad one like i had hoped-
 
huh..... that sucks! liner locks are just so hard to get right.
I have a Leek .... I'm going to see what happens when I whack it.
........................
back!
The leek held up perfect. I hit it pretty hard on the handle of a hammer.
Didn't even budge.
 
That's a framelock , not a linerlock.

Man if that woulda been a CRKT failing everyone and thier mom woulda jumped on this thread denouncing them as usual.
Now that I got that out of my system... :D

Here's my guess and my hints. The lock is not engaging near enough as it should. I have only bought one framelock that did not require me to do my own modification to make the lock more secure , but I dont mind doing the work.
Try this first. It is possible that the screws are not aligning correctly , like the knife is crooked, if that makes sense. Unscrew all screws just until you can move the handles back and forth - play - (including pivot) , then start at the end of the handle and work your way - tightening - towards the pivot , you may have to try this a few times to get them aligned correctly , you may want to use some loctite. ( do this with the knife blade closed )

That should get it back to where it originally was before you took it apart.
If it still does not lock up tight enough , then do this.

Take knife apart , put the lockbar side in a padded vise with lockbar sticking out so you can grab it with padded pliers (duct tape works for padding) and GENTLY yet firmly bend the lockbar more so it engages *snappier* , I was able to make my CRKT S-2 sound like dry firing a crisp 30.06, that is the kind of engaging I like, now put it back together and see how she does , you may have to mess with the screws again.
If that still does not get you where you need to be then very carefully remove a tiny bit of the metal on the tip of the lockbar with a file , let me emphasize tiny , do a little at a time until you get it where you like it.

Hope you get it sorted out.:thumbup:
 
If it was new and not used much yet the lock is not moving in very far. Once it breaks in and starts moving out behind the blade better that should stop but if it persists I'd send it back. Many would send it back before that but since you modified it you made that null as far as warranty.

I'd suggest using it hard for some heavy rope cutting and other such things where you really have to lean into it to break the lock in since you can't send it back.

I spine whacked the one I had first when I tested it (and later modified it in several ways )about 500 times hard on a 2x4 after the lock broke in good and fully got behind the blade and it never came even close to defeating. Most come with not even half the lock getting out there to support the blade good. This is not unique to Kershaw. I've seen it in Emersons, BenchMades, and customs also.


STR
 



this was the lock engagement. I just tried tweaking the screws a few times. I can get ebgagement to ~60-70%, but it still pops on a firm contact. I'll try bending the bar some. Time to quit using rubber shoe soles and palms for testing.

edit-bending the bar didn't work, gonna have to do some filing tomorrow.
 
The angle of the lock engagement cut on the tang (don't know technical term for that) looks too steep. IMO that would be tricky to fix.
 
I would say its simply that not enough of the lock is getting behind the blade. Cut some half inch hemp rope with it for a while putting a lot of pressure on the stop and then check to see where the lock is. Once its behind the blade then try the same test.

The angle looks about right to me. I don't think the interface looks any better or worse than a typical example from Kershaw, Emerson or Benchmade.

STR
 
STR said:
I. Most come with not even half the lock getting out there to support the blade good. This is not unique to Kershaw. I've seen it in Emersons, BenchMades, and customs also.


STR
Click to expand...

my strider has a very little making contact and it wont unlock no mater how many times or how hard its whacked same goes for my new yuna hard 2,bar makes very little contact,my jyd lock bar goes fully behind the blade and will pop after 1-2 light whacks-i think its more of a bar has flex thing than a contact thing

my last 3 kershaws have had issues of one sort or another,zdp leek was as dull as a butter knife(not a big deal)zdp mini cyclone had a bad lock and was sent back for service(i did like it while i had it) and this with the jyd(not a big fan of the jyd-too thin in the hand)
 
I had a different problem with several speedsafe model linerlocks, I could apply pressure to the liner and force the bar all the way to full engagement, quite easily. That, like this, seems to be affected somewhat by the way the parts are formed. I think the soft edges from the stamping make it easier for the locks to slip one way or the other. I also think this helps with Ti locks, not only do they stick better, but they can't be stamped out so easily, so they have machined edges.

The steeper angle is probably the thing keeping me from forcing this lock deeper. It's about about 1/2 thickness engagement, which is actually where I like framelocks, since it's about the same as full engagement of a liner.
 
Your Strider is a titanium lock. Ti galls or sticks better to the blade than stainless. Let the lock get in behind the blade before you start whacking it and you'll see that it works better fro stainless in most cases. It doesn't mean there still won't be ones that need to be returned but generally stainless should be sufficiently supporting the blade since it can slide off easier with no galling properties like ti has. Most makers and manufacturers start them out with very little so it wears in with use to eventually get in there better to support the blade.

STR
 
STR said:
The angle looks about right to me. I don't think the interface looks any better or worse than a typical example from Kershaw, Emerson or Benchmade.
Click to expand...

rosconey2 said:
you can also go the other way and not have enough angle like my zdp mini cyclone-
Click to expand...
I'm sure that manufacturing a frame or liner lock so that it's secure, yet won't quickly develop problems with use, is no small feat. It was really just idle, amateur speculation on my part about the angle.

Whatever's wrong with yours, hardheart, I would think Kershaw would like to see it regardless of the fact that you've done some unrelated mods. The fact that rosconey's seeing the same thing suggests maybe there's some production issue they'd like to address. From what I've seen on the forums Kershaw is good about taking care of stuff like this.
 
hardheart said:



this was the lock engagement. I just tried tweaking the screws a few times. I can get ebgagement to ~60-70%, but it still pops on a firm contact. I'll try bending the bar some. Time to quit using rubber shoe soles and palms for testing.

edit-bending the bar didn't work, gonna have to do some filing tomorrow.
Click to expand...


Just remember bro , do a tiny , tiny bit at a time , you will have to put it back together each time but it is better than the alternative which is filing too much and ruining a knife.

You may want to give STR's suggestion a try before doing any filing since once you've filed there is no turning back.
 
Man if that woulda been a CRKT failing everyone and thier mom woulda jumped on this thread denouncing them as usual.
Now that I got that out of my system...
Click to expand...
Rebeltf, if it was a BM, Spyderco, or CRK what kind of direction would this thread have taken?

hardheart, sorry to hear about your issues. Of course we are not huge fans when mods are made, but we understand it can be a fun part of owning a knife.
Frame locks and liner locks have become quite subjective on where one prefers the lock up to land, but ultimately the lock does need to function properly.
We do "spine whack" all our knives to death in assembly, but on occasion one can slip through. If you would like to send it in, I'll take care of it for you.

Rosconey2, I have yet to see your Cyclone come back, but I got your back, and will ensure your new one will be spot on.:thumbup:
 
Thomas W said:
Rebeltf, if it was a BM, Spyderco, or CRK what kind of direction would this thread have taken?

hardheart, sorry to hear about your issues. Of course we are not huge fans when mods are made, but we understand it can be a fun part of owning a knife.
Frame locks and liner locks have become quite subjective on where one prefers the lock up to land, but ultimately the lock does need to function properly.
We do "spine whack" all our knives to death in assembly, but on occasion one can slip through. If you would like to send it in, I'll take care of it for you.

Rosconey2, I have yet to see your Cyclone come back, but I got your back, and will ensure your new one will be spot on.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

sounds good to me
 
It is defective, regardless of any mods, unless you want to argue the mods are what made it defective. Send it back, it is the manufacturers problem not yours. Get a shipping refund as well. Such problems are inherent in liner locks, this has been known and openly discussed pre-2000 and spans a wide range of manufacturers. The really inexpensive knives like CRK&T do tend to have more such problems as would be expected as overall tolerances are lower but Harvey/Talmadge have shown them consistently in very high end production and custom versions.

-Cliff
 
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