Ka-bar Replacement?

Gerber LMFII, is , IMO, the best best knife value to the intended use ,I can envision. I like the steel, thickness, partial serrations, hammer butt, window/head breaker and the 3/4 disconnected , almost full tang , for electrical resistance.

If I were to do any redesign for mass issue to combat troops, I would lengthen the blade from 4.8” to 6”, to insure reaching vitals when stabbing thru a winter greatcoat ( a length determined by Finnish Guerilllas against the Nazi’s in WW II ). I would also incorporate a wire cutter stud hole on the blade and stud on the sheath, like the AK-47 type Soviet bayonet.

As it stands the LMF II is in all my car and larger carry survival bags, along with a Gerber Wave II, 8” Fenix Bolt Cutter ( An urban must for E&E. It will cut the heaviest fence wire with ease and even diamond plate grid fencing with two cuts per bar. Most likely use is to cut thru fence holding you in, as in highway right-of-way fence or out, as in gated walkways.), 4-way silcock wrench, Titanium 12” nail puller bar, some gorilla tape in a flat roll, 50’ of 550 cord or similar , even upgrade cord, & 10’ SS wire. I also have a SPAX-16 rescue that ax, in its molle sheath, next to the kits. Its 2lb weight makes it optional for bug-out carry. But it’s ability to break concrete blocks, cut wood and sheet metal, lift man hole covers, break or twist open many padlocks, pry, gas shutoff ability and most especially , to open & close most Muncipal fire hydrants, gives you a water sourcing ability for drinking and decontamination, not equaled by any single comparable tool. Standard issue on Marine 1.
 
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how about the 5.5" Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140 in 80crv2 ?? also cost effective around $100 & 6.7oz & 10.6" total length

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One thing that would get in the way of adopting the Peltonen or Terävä would be the grind. The "Scandinavian" edge is not traditional in the US and would meet with some opposition.

I never gave my reasons: The sissipuukko (ranger puukko, in English) is light but extremely durable. It is inexpensive. It is made in a democratic nation with open elections and strong labor protection. It is grippy. It is suited for both utility and fighting. It slices nicely. It is easy to sharpen. Cons are, of course, it's not made in the U.S., it has a "Scandi" grind, it is not really stainless (though not 1095 level rust prone), and it has a funny name. BTW, this is a mixed bag of my reasons and what the AS committees would report.

But I like them and if I were serving in a role that could justify carrying a sheath knife, I might very well carry the M95.

As is is, I work outdoors and carry a puukko style knife almost every day, in any weather. I don't have to stab anyone but I can be pretty stupid with a knife edge sometimes and I tend not to use stainless. I'm not the model for a knife-carrying soldier, though.

Zieg
 
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Aaron880 said:
Gerber LMFII, is , IMO, the best best knife value to the intended use ,I can envision. I like the steel, thickness, partial serrations, hammer butt, window/head breaker and the 3/4 disconnected , almost full tang , for electrical resistance.

If I were to do any redesign for mass issue to combat troops, I would lengthen the blade from 4.8” to 6”, to insure reaching vitals when stabbing thru a winter greatcoat ( a length determined by Finnish Guerilllas against the Nazi’s in WW II ). I would also incorporate a wire cutter stud hole on the blade and stud on the sheath, like the AK-47 type Soviet bayonet.

As it stands the LMF II is in all my car and larger carry survival bags, along with a Gerber Wave II, 8” Fenix Bolt Cutter ( An urban must for E&E. It will cut the heaviest fence wire with ease and even diamond plate grid fencing with two cuts per bar. Most likely use is to cut thru fence holding you in, as in highway right-of-way fence or out, as in gated walkways.), 4-way silcock wrench, Titanium 12” nail puller bar, some gorilla tape in a flat roll, 50’ of 550 cord or similar , even upgrade cord, & 10’ SS wire. I also have a SPAX-16 rescue that ax, in its molle sheath, next to the kits. Its 2lb weight makes it optional for bug-out carry. But it’s ability to break concrete blocks, cut wood and sheet metal, lift man hole covers, break or twist open many padlocks, pry, gas shutoff ability and most especially , to open & close most Muncipal fire hydrants, gives you a water sourcing ability for drinking and decontamination, not equaled by any single comparable tool. Standard issue on Marine 1.
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Finns fought Russians, not Germans. That started before WW-II but for during most of that war the Finns were on the German side. No one else was offering to save them from the Russian animals. Churchill and the others were willing to throw Finland under the bus to stay on the good side of the commies.
 
Sidehill Gouger said:
Finns fought Russians, not Germans. That started before WW-II but for during most of that war the Finns were on the German side. No one else was offering to save them from the Russian animals. Churchill and the others were willing to throw Finland under the bus to stay on the good side of the commies.
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To be pedantic about it, Finns did fight Germans in WW2, albeit in a very small number of engagements.

March 3, 1945, Finland declared war against Germany, and did some fighting pushing them out of the country entirely.
 
The True North said:
To be pedantic about it, Finns did fight Germans in WW2, albeit in a very small number of engagements.

March 3, 1945, Finland declared war against Germany, and did some fighting pushing them out of the country entirely.
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I know that and its why I said "most of the war". The War of Continuum" was all about fighting on the German side to retake the land Russia stole during the Winter War. The Finns had very good reasons for siding with the Germans after how the west treated them during the Winter War.
 
Aaron880 said:
If I were to do any redesign for mass issue to combat troops, I would lengthen the blade from 4.8” to 6”, to insure reaching vitals when stabbing thru a winter greatcoat ( a length determined by Finnish Guerilllas against the Nazi’s in WW II ). I would also incorporate a wire cutter stud hole on the blade and stud on the sheath, like the AK-47 type Soviet bayonet.
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I am curious how much use the wire cutter function of bayonets is used in real life. Seems like real wire cutters would be more useful. The Marine OKC-3S bayonet does not have the hole for one, so they must use a separate tool?
 
steelhead seeker said:
Tasks for a knife for a soldier would be way more important than being used as a close quarters weapons. I dont know what kind of fantasies some people have about soldiers getting into hand hand combat knife fights but it just doesnt happen as often as people think. give em something that can take abuse and don't worry about the tactical side of the blade. Esee 4. Cheap, strong and can take abuse like crazy and best warranty in the biz.
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Often is not the measure. Once is. That said, I'd still be happy with this and most I know would be as well.

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steelhead seeker said:
So your one of those. You literally have a better chance of getting hit by lightning while being bitten by a shark at the same time. Yes it's happened in history so I can't say it never happens but... it never happens.
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I am one of those. And it is you're so long as we are being picky. I take it you are not. one of those. No problem.
 
steelhead seeker said:
Probably have to carry an esee 5 too in case you ever need to cut yourself out of a helicopter right. I mean...it could happen..and its just as ridiculous of a thought.
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There was no such thing as an ESEE anything when I did my time. What branch did you serve in and when to gain such insight?
 
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