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- Aug 26, 2010
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This project is kinda special to me because of all the projects I've done this is the first one that is my own blade from scratch. Well that is if you don't count the pizza cutter. It btw is still undergoing some artificial aging then ill post some final pics. This next knife is for cutting sashimi or raw fish. I suppose you could use it for many other things as well. The plan is to make a Tako Hiki which is a Japanese Knife made to cut octopus specifically for sashimi. Raw octopus! YUM YUM YUM!!! great stuff! It can be used for cutting tuna, salmon and other fish in thin slices. The tip is much like a sword tip or Katana. The angled cut tip is used as a spatula sort of to scoop up the slice of fish and drop it on a sushi roll. To start with I used a Nicholson made in the USA file. I have noticed that the new ones are made in Mexico and of inferior steel. The files themselves don't last near as long as the old USA made ones. I have no idea what kind of steel they are made of but I assume it is similar to 5160,1084,1095 or the like. Since its a file the tang was in the middle and needed to be moved to the top so the handle can be justified to the top for knuckle clearance. I cut the corner off the top where the tang is and hammered it flat to the top.
Next cut out that area marked to form the full length of the tang. The handle is traditionally made in an octagon or hex shape with a matching bolster and pommel. It will be a short rat tail and epoxied into the handle.
After much hammering I got the edge hammered to the shape I want it. I did notice that all Japanese cutlery that i have seen has a straight spine so as I hammered the edge to shape and also had to continually hammer the blade back straight again as it bent from shaping the edge. I found out that you need to keep the edge thick so you can hammer it straight without folding the edge over. There's probably methods smiths use to keep it straight but I dont have a clue what it might be? Just trial and error so far. I do need some good hammers! anywayz this is what i got. At this point i didnt have any tongs so vise grips have to work. Did you know that vise grips were invented by a blacksmith with the intention of adjustable tongs? They are too short and you will cook your hands.
Distal tapered it down slowly with my crappy hammer but got it done. Hammering the taper did counter the bend associated with hammering the edge so that helped.
I got carried away and even peened the edge to see how sharp I coud get it and it was very sharp at this point without any grinding. I put me a couple nails on the side of my stump to hang my hammer because I couldnt remember to put it back in the same place twice
OK heres where things went wrong! A traditional Tako Hiki has a single edge. In other words if you are right handed the left side of the knife is flat all the way across the width of the knife and the right side has the bevel cut. I put the edge on the wrong side. That was a traditional disaster i guess. I figured id heat it up and hammer it flat on the backside and the edge would be on the other side. Yep it worked but the knife is now bent and I cant straighten it becauase the edge is already too thin to hammer on to straighten it. Don't know if this makes any sense but im stuck with what i got so I now I have a bent knife I cant straighten with a convex edge on both sides and its going to look like a micro Katana! Sounds pretty cool to me so im gonna keep going.
I didn't like the rounded overly convexed edge so I thinned and flattened it out a bit. Much better!
More later. I'm cleaning up the blade some and getting the handle ready. The handle will be made from highly figured stabilized Maple from Oregon.
Next cut out that area marked to form the full length of the tang. The handle is traditionally made in an octagon or hex shape with a matching bolster and pommel. It will be a short rat tail and epoxied into the handle.
After much hammering I got the edge hammered to the shape I want it. I did notice that all Japanese cutlery that i have seen has a straight spine so as I hammered the edge to shape and also had to continually hammer the blade back straight again as it bent from shaping the edge. I found out that you need to keep the edge thick so you can hammer it straight without folding the edge over. There's probably methods smiths use to keep it straight but I dont have a clue what it might be? Just trial and error so far. I do need some good hammers! anywayz this is what i got. At this point i didnt have any tongs so vise grips have to work. Did you know that vise grips were invented by a blacksmith with the intention of adjustable tongs? They are too short and you will cook your hands.
Distal tapered it down slowly with my crappy hammer but got it done. Hammering the taper did counter the bend associated with hammering the edge so that helped.
I got carried away and even peened the edge to see how sharp I coud get it and it was very sharp at this point without any grinding. I put me a couple nails on the side of my stump to hang my hammer because I couldnt remember to put it back in the same place twice

OK heres where things went wrong! A traditional Tako Hiki has a single edge. In other words if you are right handed the left side of the knife is flat all the way across the width of the knife and the right side has the bevel cut. I put the edge on the wrong side. That was a traditional disaster i guess. I figured id heat it up and hammer it flat on the backside and the edge would be on the other side. Yep it worked but the knife is now bent and I cant straighten it becauase the edge is already too thin to hammer on to straighten it. Don't know if this makes any sense but im stuck with what i got so I now I have a bent knife I cant straighten with a convex edge on both sides and its going to look like a micro Katana! Sounds pretty cool to me so im gonna keep going.
I didn't like the rounded overly convexed edge so I thinned and flattened it out a bit. Much better!
More later. I'm cleaning up the blade some and getting the handle ready. The handle will be made from highly figured stabilized Maple from Oregon.

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