katana knowledge?

K

KeithH

Joined
Mar 25, 2007
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Ive decided to make a little tanto type knife but with a different handle. I was curious how the Japanese decorate their swords, how do they create the ricasso (brass?), pommel, handle and guard? All I know is the forging process. Thanks!
 
Here is a glossary and explanation ,going from ricasso to pommel:

Habaki - The metal fitting that protects the blade from rubbing the throat of the saya (sheath) and is the bearing surface for the guard.
Seppa - A washer to insure the snugness of the guard
Tusba - The guard. Either sawn from flat stock or cast
Seppa - another washer to make a snug and secure guard
Fuchi- A bolster that anchors the end of the handle in a mortise
Tsuka - The handle. It is covered in many ways. The art of making Japanese handles is called Tsuka-Maki, which means "Handle Wrapping".
Kashira - The pommel that anchors the other end of the handle in a mortise.

Other good words to know:
Same' - sting ray skin used to cover the handle.
Ito - The cord or ribbon that is used to knot the handle.

Good info:
www.knifehow.com I have a couple of tutorials under Tsukamaki , and lots of info under swords (click categories)

Stacy
 
tang = Na Kago
upper tang shoulder = Mune Machi
lower tang shoulder = Ha Machi
hole for menuki post = Manuki-ana
end of the tang = Nagako-ju

Mitsu Kado
Ko Shinogi
Yokote
Kissaki
Fukura
all refer to the junction of surfaces and parts of the tip of the swords blade. I will try to find a diagram labeling them correctly.

Kojiri, Kurigata and Koi-guchi refer to the 3 traditional water buffalo horn pieces that adorn the saya. Kojiri is the endcap, koi guchi is the throat piece and the kurigata is the Ito attachment point.

Mune is the spine and Maru Mune, Mitsu Mune and lori Mune all refer to the shape of the top of the spine.

Jigane is the area between the cutting edge and the hamon, the Shinogi and Shinogiji are above it as the remaining blade surface.

I will try and remeber the rest but it has been 5 or 6 years since I competed in tameshigiri.
 
thanks! I really like the habaki, but i dont think I'll wrap the handle, would a burly wood over the hidden tang look nice?
 
On a tanto, (or a sword) there is no rule that says you can't have a wooden tsuka (handle). I have made several tanto in African Blackwood (with carved details), and one aikuchi (a tanto with no guard) with the entire sheath and handle carved as a dragon from snakewood. The habaki is very much a part of the look, so I would keep it.

Here is a suggestion:
Make the habaki to fit the shoulders of the hidden tang. Have a seppa ,or even build it as part of the habaki. Make the tsuba (guard) in whatever shape you want, and fit it snug to the habaki, with another sepa on the handle side. Make the handle from three pieces of wood, to give the look of a fuchi,tsuka,and kashira. Colored spacers at the junctions will add to that effect. You can do some carving or scrimshaw, or whatever on the fuchi and kashira if you like. Why not checker the tsuka? See where I'm going.....lots of possibilities.
Stacy
 
thanks, but one question, how would the habaki fit snug to the tang and wrap around the blade at the same time?
 
the tang on a tanto is the same shape and width (cross-sectionally) as the blade.. so the habaki simply slides up the tang to fit snuggly on the blade.
i dont know if this has been put on here yet, but check out this link it shows in pictures exactly how they are made and fit.
http://home.comcast.net/~jeshern/habakimaking.htm
hope this helps
~chris
 
There is a small shoulder notch at the tang (called the muni-machi on the spine side and the ha-machi on the edge side). The habaki sits on this. Properly made ,the fit is very firm.
1/8" is 12 gauge. That is hefty stuff, but will give plenty of filing room.
Have fun.
Stacy
 
Thanks again, does one have to forge tantos, (because I dont have a forge :grumpy: ) I was planning on using 5160, is that an good steel?
 
no you dont have to forge them!
you can grind them. my first couple wernt forged. my first really nice one wasnt. 5160 is great steel.
good luck
~Chris
 
i made a knife from a chainsaw bar with an angle grinder and an emery wheel. turned out ok. I didnt temper it (not worth finishing) working with a known steel should be fun!
 
Grinding is fine. All Japanese blades receive their final shape by stock reduction. The forging is to make the steel more than to make the blade. With a good modern steel, the forging step can be eliminated. A tanto is one of the easiest blade types to make with little or no power equipment.
Stacy
 
well i will tell you what..
the habaki is the hardest part of the knife for me. i would be happy just making the blades...
so taht would be nice to have that skill but alas... i do not
so i struggle on
*grins*
have fun... thats the most important part
~chris
 
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